Cleaning Jag Type?

[Al Bently]

In your experiences, which is the preferred cleaning jag?

OR

Thanks for the input!

 

[pargent]

I use both types ,have not noted any problems with either .

 

[dave524]

If your rod is close to bore diameter I prefer the 2nd type with a bit of relief in diameter behind the grooved part. Had some jamming issues once and prefer that type over the 1st one when the ramrod is close to bore size.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Both are fine if right size and there is some rebate behind the head.

 

[FishDFly]

The second one hands down.

If a cleaning jag gets stuck where you cannot remove it from the ramrod, you can use a pair of pliers to grip the shank to remove it.

With the first one you will bugger it up with pliers when it is stuck to the ramrod.

 

[necchi]

Neither.
Look for one like the second one with steel threads.
The brass threads will break off leaving the jag in the barrel and make you sad.
these; http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/580/1
or these; http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/582/1

 

[bpd303]

I'll second the steel threads. See the thread about stuck jag. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/289930/

 

[coloradoclyde]

Steel threads are a must. That said I like the second one because I cut my own cleaning patches from T-shirts and the size varies. The long rebated stem on the second jag help prevent me sticking an oversized patch in the bore. It also adds length if used on the guns ramrod which makes it easier to grab.

The last button jag I had I got stuck in the barrel and had to shoot out. never did find it back

 

[Ken Cormier]

2nd one been. using one for years and no problems.

 

[necchi]

The long rebated stem on the second jag help prevent me sticking an oversized patch in the bore. It also adds length if used on the guns ramrod which makes it easier to grab.

Good point, the long one does make it easier to use a random sized cleaning patch.
I use the button type because I'm a swabber and use a specific size smaller patch to do the swab.

 

[ohio ramrod]

I make my own , similar to the bottom picture. :idunno:

 

[Grenadier1758]

Its steel threads for my recommendation.

Be sure to have a good fit to the bore. You want the jag and patch to go down easily. When the jag is at the breech plug, you want the patch to bunch up around the jag and drag the powder out. A tight jag and patch will push fouling into the breech area and ultimately plug up the touch hole/flash channel.

 

[Stumpkiller]

If your rod is close to bore diameter I prefer the 2nd type with a bit of relief in diameter behind the grooved part. Had some jamming issues once and prefer that type over the 1st one when the ramrod is close to bore size.

This. :hatsoff:

 

[coloradoclyde]

I think the OP said in another post he was getting a 54cal T/C hawken. likley a 3/8 rod. For me that's borderline for a button jag so I would go with the latter.

I don't own a 54 cal so maybe someone that does will chime in.

 

[Zonie]

Having once had the fun of removing a jag which was left in my guns barrel after the threads snapped off I have "fixed" all of my remaining jags by installing steel threads.

The problem with the brass threads is brass is pretty weak and if it is subjected to high stresses, it will work harden making it brittle. Weak + brittle = broken threads.

To fix the problem I filed off almost all of the existing brass threads and then center punched a dimple in the center of the remaining thread.

Using the correct size tap drill I then drilled a hole 3/8 to 1/2" deep.
I threaded this hole with the correct tap. (I have both #8-32 and #10-32 range rods. Don't ask me why)

Once threaded, I installed a common steel 5/8 inch long set screw into the jag with about 5/16" sticking out of the face. I used Loc-Tite thread locking compound to secure the set screw in place.

As for which style cleaning jag? I haven't seen a difference between them and I have both styles.

 

[dikman]

I make my own, second style, with steel threads loc-tited into the jag (I use a fairly long thread so that if it does work loose it has to unscrew a long way out of the rod).

As Mr. Eames pointed out, this style gives you somewhere to grip with pliers - all mine have such teeth marks in them!

 

[Rifleman1776]

I won't argue, steel is stronger. But, in the nearly five decades I have been at this insanity I have never broken the brass threads off of a jag. IMHO, brass works just fine, not a major issue.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Well that explains it . you have that old WWII brass not the cheap manure from china we get today. :rotf: :thumbsup: :blah:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I think the OP said in another post he was getting a 54cal T/C hawken. likley a 3/8 rod. For me that's borderline for a button jag so I would go with the latter.

I don't own a 54 cal so maybe someone that does will chime in.

Then the answer is "neither". T/C used a stepped breech chamber and the jag needs a smaller nose and a bore sized shoulder.

 

[coloradoclyde]

:thumbsup: I just learned something new...about the jag that is. Investarms also has a deep patent breech that keeps a standard jag from reaching the bottom by about an inch.