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Arbor Lube

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scobrien

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Wanted to give a bit of preliminary findings on some experimentation that I have been doing with a natural lube on the arbor of my percussion revolvers. A while back I decided to try a mixture of deer tallow and bear oil lube out on my repros that a very good friend made up for me. The lube is intended as a patch lube for muzzleloading long guns, but so far, I am having good luck using it as a dual purpose lube.

In the past, I have been using straight bear grease, my own mixture, and TC bore butter on the arbors of my percussion revolvers. My mixture consists of bees wax and mink oil. So far, I have found that bore butter works better than both straight bear grease and my mixture. I had also planned on trying CaptainKirk's suggestion of using white lithium grease, but just never got that far.

Anyway, after using the deer tallow/bear oil lube on my linen patches for my rifle guns recently, I thought that it seemed slicker than anything that I had used in the past, so I decided to try it on my revolvers.

So far I have tried it out on my Rogers and Spencer, my '49 pocket Colt and my 1860 Colt Army.

This evening, I decided to try it again. I fired 36 rounds out of my 1861 Navy Colt with the patch lube on the arbor, and found that the cylinder still rotated just as smoothly as it did after the first six rounds. Of course it was rather cold today, (19 degrees), so I still have to try the lube out in warm and hot weather to realize it's full potential.

For now, the 1861 is setting on my load bench uncleaned. It will stay as it lays for the night. Tomorrow, I am going to load it up and continue to fire more rounds through it to see if the cylinder will still spin freely without binding.

Somewhere in the back of my mind, I am thinking that this particular mixture may prove to be the ideal combo to fit my requirements as an arbor lube. So far, it has proven to be just as reliable as bore butter and better than straight bear grease as well as a mixture of mink oil and bees wax. I am taking into consideration factors such as relative humidity and temperature for now, but I have high hopes that I may have found a new lube for my revolvers with the combination of deer tallow and bear oil. Time will tell and I will post any future findings and results.

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You will find pin lube on the Remmy to be MUCH more critical than on the R&S or Colts.The problem is not with the rotation of the cylinder as much as pulling the pin out after 2 dozen rounds or so.
The solution is really simple; I think ANY lube, including good ol' Crisco, applied to the pin (after a wipe-down) every second cylinder-full should keep you on the range all day.
I've had stellar luck using this method and Lubriplate AA650 and have fired over 100+ consecutive rounds through my stainless ASP Remmy
using this method and Pyrodex P.
 
Many thanks regarding your advise kind sir :bow: . I do not have the experience that you have with Remmy's, but have found that they are more critical than Colt's regarding arbor binding, so I can see where your methods would prove to be most effective.

I have applied the occasional wipe down method on my Colt's, especially my Paterson with the non-grooved arbor. But staying true to my simple mentality, I have searched for a lube that would prevent me from having to ever pull the barrel on my Colt's during a shooting session. Perhaps it is a futile attempt on my part :grin:

Thanks again for your input and advise :thumbsup:

Also, I still plan on giving the lubriplate a try, just a bit slow getting around to it. Might be an Idaho thing :)
 
Captain:

I don't find 650 AA in the Lubriplate product lineup.

Could this be the 630 AA in 10 OZ. tubes? I am going to take your advice on this and just want to get the right stuff. Thanks.
 
I use bore butter on the cyc. arbours on all my colts and have found very good results.
 
I use bore butter on the cyc. arbours on all my colts and have found very good results.
 
Took the uncleaned '61 back out today and put 24 more rounds through it. Cylinder is still rotating on the arbor just fine. So for now, 60 consecutive rounds without pulling the cylinder from the arbor to wipe it down and re-lube is fully possible. I am likeing this lube for my percussion colts. The lube is the stuff that Swampy mixes up and calls his "hunting lube."
 
You might be right. I'll re-check my stock at work tomorrow and post the results tomorrow AM.
I don't keep the can here, just fill a couple empty cap tins and throw 'em in my cleaning kit and possibles box.
That way you can always have a little bit in a shirt or hip pocket.
 
Colts have a larger arbor, with threads, and you're trying to pull the cylinder off the arbor, not a tiny pin with a small head through a cylinder.
Keeping the pin clean on the Remmies is the key. On the Colts, I've never had an issue; about any lube would work.
 
Lor', those photos of your '61 are just up their with art or somethin'. That is one top rig. Did you take the color down on that iron or did you just shoot it off?

Additionally, what loads does that thang like and do you find .375's tend to work forward in the chambers of the cylinder after a couple of shots or some handling or walking and that .380's fit better? Mine is a Pietta.

Real nice pichurs to see. Thanks.
 
Hello G Dog,

I took the finish off the revolver and also removed all of the Italian stamping.

The pistol is a Pietta like yours and I am shooting 25 gr. Goex 3f, a lubed felt wad, and a .375 cast ball. I found the .375 ball to be just right and the chamber mouths shave a perfect full ring of lead when seating each ball, therefor giving them a tight fit with no forward movement during recoil.

Thanks for the comment on the pics :grin:
 
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