• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

American Pioneer Powder

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The big problem with APP is that it doesn't last. After a year it is chunky. After 2 years, the whole bottle is one big chunk of powder. I suppose a person could spend some time breaking it up every year, or use it all in a year.

I'd just get better powder. Pyrodex is better. 777 is better. Actual blackpowder is better.
 
Its not temp or humidity sensitive,,,
,,& no crud ring like with T7
I've used almost all the sub's.
I tried a few pounds of the "Clean shot". They may market that's it's not humidity sensitive on the day that your shooting it,, but for a short period of time,,
An open can in common storage for even for a few weeks is extremely hygroscopic. You'll find it turning to clumps in the jug in a very short time.

And the "olde" "crud ring" story of T7,,,

How do ya find a crude ring? By cleaning the rifle with a jag and a rag and feeling something,,
There's a cure,,,
,keep using the jag and a rag while cleaning,, until it's clean. Simple. It's not a "problem" with T7.
The T7 Crud Ring Myth was busted yrs ago.
I've watched APP work through the law suit, and how they filed and re-structured, I gave their new stuff with Jim Shockey's endorsement another shot.
Same stuff,, different bottle.
And your right, all of APP's stuff is cheaper, even more so in bulk, so I get it.
 
Made with orange peelings ..it draws moister like a sponge sucks up water in a pail..IT will draw moister then dry and clump up ..then when you shake the can to seperate it..its gets finer and finer and the burn rates go all over the place as does your groups.Then the company tried to pawn it off after everyone stopped using it I THINK ..the next thing i see was a advertisment trying to get rid of it with some dude named JIM SHOCKEY.Pretty sure not certain..BUYER beware.
 
Well if Goex isn’t bought up and the plant restarted and the current administration keeps putting the kabosh to foreign imports, Any thing that will go boom and throw a lead projectile will gain in popularity and unfortunately in price also. Another thread $40 a pound for Swiss. My bung is squeezing tight.
 
Its not junk either! The narrow-minded thinking that if it aint real black - its junk is just ridiculous.
For the life of me I will never understand why there are so many nay-sayers? I used Pyrodex because it was all that was available at the time.I did something that most people don't do it appears, I read the instructions before using. I didn't have any problems with it as long as I didn't deviate from what I read. I have personaly shot one ragged oval shaped hole at a hundred yards with three shots using Pyrodex. Ask Idaho Lewis about his friend that uses Pyrodex. He will confirm that there is nothing wrong with the sudstitutes powders if you follow the directions .
 
I used American Pioneer powder back a few years ago and I liked it. I didn't notice it drawing moisture or clumping. It cleaned easier than black powder. I would buy it again if it was on the shelf. I used it in a Remington c&b and 45 cal. rifle.
 
I've used Black MZ for years as a competitive powder and I have the awards to prove it. Absolutely as fast and consistent as BP using volume for volume. Clean. And you can use it in a flintlock. I shot the first and only NMLRA national blunderbuss match with it shooting a flintlock blunderbuss. Yes, it will form small clumps with humidity, but breaking up the clumps by shaking the can seems to have no affect on performance. The label, Black MZ, is gone but APP is the same stuff. Try it, test it, with GOEX gone, you may like it.
 
Made with orange peelings ..it draws moister like a sponge sucks up water in a pail.

Malarly. It ain't made from orange peels. It's synthesized ascorbic acid. Think vitamin C.

Used all the APP powders, including JSG, which came out about 2005. Yep, those powders sometimes clump. Keep the lid tight and break up the clumps

Here are the first seven rounds from my re-worked by Mr, Hoyt, .54 caliber Navy Arms rifle using patched round balls. Distance is 50 yards . This is the best five round group i ever fired from an unscoped conventional muzzleloader.

Forgot the powder that day. The powder was from a can of Black MZ opened years ago and stored in the tractor shed at the range.

i have enough Black MZ powder at $10.00 per pound to last for 15 years.

oOJUFdpl.jpg
 
I have used AP in my cannons, and they love it nice boom! and smoke for blank shots . Yes i do use BP but as i can not all get it AP is my second choice for mt 1.25/1.5 in cannons.
 
The big problem with APP is that it doesn't last. After a year it is chunky. After 2 years, the whole bottle is one big chunk of powder. I suppose a person could spend some time breaking it up every year, or use it all in a year.

I'd just get better powder. Pyrodex is better. 777 is better. Actual blackpowder is better.
I found a can of APP powder and pyrodex that I had stored over 30 years ago.it was blocked in and found it when I cleaned out my shed. the APP powder ingnited perfect in a C&B pistol the pyrodex only had maybe 50% ignition. I always used pyrodex
 
Malarly. It ain't made from orange peels. It's synthesized ascorbic acid. Think vitamin C.

Used all the APP powders, including JSG, which came out about 2005. Yep, those powders sometimes clump. Keep the lid tight and break up the clumps

Here are the first seven rounds from my re-worked by Mr, Hoyt, .54 caliber Navy Arms rifle using patched round balls. Distance is 50 yards . This is the best five round group i ever fired from an unscoped conventional muzzleloader.

Forgot the powder that day. The powder was from a can of Black MZ opened years ago and stored in the tractor shed at the range.

i have enough Black MZ powder at $10.00 per pound to last for 15 years.

oOJUFdpl.jpg
you missed
 
Malarly. It ain't made from orange peels. It's synthesized ascorbic acid. Think vitamin C.

Used all the APP powders, including JSG, which came out about 2005. Yep, those powders sometimes clump. Keep the lid tight and break up the clumps

Here are the first seven rounds from my re-worked by Mr, Hoyt, .54 caliber Navy Arms rifle using patched round balls. Distance is 50 yards . This is the best five round group i ever fired from an unscoped conventional muzzleloader.

Forgot the powder that day. The powder was from a can of Black MZ opened years ago and stored in the tractor shed at the range.

i have enough Black MZ powder at $10.00 per pound to last for 15 years.

oOJUFdpl.jpg
you missed
 
I used American Pioneer powder back a few years ago and I liked it. I didn't notice it drawing moisture or clumping. It cleaned easier than black powder. I would buy it again if it was on the shelf. I used it in a Remington c&b and 45 cal. rifle.
I'm hearing & reading two diff reviews about the APP being very moisture sensitive & some say its not moisture sensitive. That would make me think that it prob is moisture sensitive in high heat & humidity regions & it does fine in dryer little humidity areas. I'm in Fl so I'm gonna re-evaluate here a lil more & maybe get a lb & try it out here & see how it does. Glad i got to read everyone's input on this powder. Thanks
 
After all is said and done, you need powder to shoot your stuff. Clumping can
be un-clumped if needed- if it is kept long enough to clump. Everyone has a different
need for powder, general wisdom on the forum is to stock-up. If APP made BlackMZ
then they did a good powder.
 
I used some for a couple of years when it 1st came out. I'm in Maine, so use your own perspective on humidity, and m/l deer season is 1st & 2nd weeks in December. Pretty crappy (I love it) weather. Cold, rainy, snowy, foggy. I noticed two things (I only had caplocks then) - When I switched to real black powder the reliabilty of the rifles improved dramatically. Second - I thought I had more problems with corrosion than with real black. My rifle liked a fowling shot for best accuracy, better than a clean bore. With APP I couldn't leave the residue in the bore for a day of hunting in the rain/fog/drizzle. When I cleaned the bore at night you could see the begining of what I would call 'freckling' in the first 6-12" of the bore. I don't have that problem with real black. Matter of fact I don't clean my bore each night now, I leave it loaded and and in the cold for the season. And for the last three years it has gone boom every time on the first try at the end of the season. And no freckling in the bore. YMMV
 
I used some for a couple of years when it 1st came out. I'm in Maine, so use your own perspective on humidity, and m/l deer season is 1st & 2nd weeks in December. Pretty crappy (I love it) weather. Cold, rainy, snowy, foggy. I noticed two things (I only had caplocks then) - When I switched to real black powder the reliabilty of the rifles improved dramatically. Second - I thought I had more problems with corrosion than with real black. My rifle liked a fowling shot for best accuracy, better than a clean bore. With APP I couldn't leave the residue in the bore for a day of hunting in the rain/fog/drizzle. When I cleaned the bore at night you could see the begining of what I would call 'freckling' in the first 6-12" of the bore. I don't have that problem with real black. Matter of fact I don't clean my bore each night now, I leave it loaded and and in the cold for the season. And for the last three years it has gone boom every time on the first try at the end of the season. And no freckling in the bore. YMMV
Great post. Thank you
 
Back
Top