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A cure for cap sucking Colt C&Bs

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I had Chance to examine Manhatten [sic]copy of a
colt and saw a shield fittend inside the flash
shield that extended from the left side around
under the hammer. The hammer could hit that
shield and bust the cap but the cap could not come
back till it passed the danger spot and exited out
the right side...problem solved...but did colt copy
that?????
Wulf
 
Remember Colt passing on the bored thru cylinder? If old Sam didn't invent it he didn't include it. I don't know if Manhattan patented the idea but it must have been invented after Colts patent expired in 1858 and was useless by 1870 when everyone wanted cartridge revolvers
 
One of the modifications I made to my 1860 Pietta that seemed to help was to drill out the face of the hammer where it contacts the top of the nipple and solder in a piece of hardened tool steel approximately .200 in diameter. It was dressed flush with the original hammer face and remains on marked by impact against the nipples.
The hammer face originally was getting imprinted with the nipple and was rather ragged. I was sure enough at the time that it was at least a partial causing of it pulling caps that I made the mod.
 
One more thing, wasn't it common practice in yesteryear to flip-twist the revolver after each shot to clear a spent cap as you bring up the next chamber?
 
I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good nipple with a smaller ignition hole. Maybe duelist 1954 might know if the original nipples have a smaller hole than the slixshot.
 
Tresso's are always highly recommended as are the Track of The Wolf nipples.

ToTW gave their's the same interior dimensions as Tresso but cost less. The savings about pays for the shipping and are what my ROA wears.

But I bought these not because of cap jams but fit, which I eventually found was the cap and likely not the nipples.
 
What does the hammer face look like on the guns that have the most problems with cap pulling.
Are they chewed up with nipple imprinting?
I'm thinking this is what raises the burrs in the safety pin hammer notch.
If the hardened steel plug is added to the hammer face eliminating the pin safety cut then there is no cut to get bugger up and pull caps.
The hammer nose is then kept on the sixth empty chamber for the safety.
 
Mean Gene said:
I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good nipple with a smaller ignition hole. Maybe duelist 1954 might know if the original nipples have a smaller hole than the slixshot.

I've been using Ampco nipples for nearly 50 years now, and IMO they're the best you can get. Quality comes at a price, but but Ampco nipples will outlast several sets of other steel or stainless nipples. While others at the range will be picking out fragments and complaining, you'll be too busy shooting to notice.
http://jedediah-starr.com/closeup.asp?searchWord=treso ampco nipples&pid=863&offset=0

Besides, $5 per nipple is a bargain compared to all that blood pressure, stroke and ulcer medication you'll be taking while complaining about all those cap fragments binding up your actions.
 
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PRA-S is the one. It has the same external dimensions as the OEM nipples. Page 2.

I tried to make a link to it alone, but it didn't work for me.
 
I've not had issues with cap fragments. And if the claim is correct (not sure about all of their nipples) the dimensions should be the same. If they are the same they ought to produce similar results.

Not even my Pietta nipples cause cap fragments though. I've not found a need to replace them. But it's also on a Remington which doesn't seem to suffer the same problems as Colts.

Their price does beat ToTW nipples though. Nice price!
 
OK, did anyone deburr their hammer? If so, did this alleviate the problem?

I just bought a Pieta 1851 Navy reproduction in .44 cal, and it has destroyed every Remington and CCI cap I fired in it. This caused a jam either by falling into the action or getting caught between the cylinder and frame as the cylinder rotated. The only ones that didn't jam were those that stuck tenuously to the hammer as it was recoked.

Inspection of the Hamer showed some seriously sharp edges on the striking surface, particularly the safety slot. So deburring and breaking these was my thought. But I don't want to just start filling without first asking others who might know.

This is my first C&B revolver. However my TC rifles have flat hammer faces and caps are similarly destroyed; just not as bad.
 
I kept digging in the archives here, and found this:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/.../tid/300370/pid/1570517/post/1570517/#1570517

It is another post in the videos section which links to a video where the hammer was smoothed, deburred and the edges broke. His head was in the way for most of the operation, but I think I have the idea. I'll try it and see.

Any other tips still would be appreciated. Really an annoying problem!
 
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OK, I've been working on the problem; deburring and breaking the sharp edges of the striking face of the hammer a little at a time. I fire one cylinder, then check the cap and using emery cloth (without disassembly of the revolver) I round the edges a bit more.

I actually have it where the problem is not nearly as bad now. I was able to load and fire all six without malfunction a couple of times- though not every time. So I think I am to the point I need to disassemble and clean the pistol and judiciously go after the hammer in a vice with my gunsmith's stones.

This could take some time ...
 
I took my Pietta apart put the hammer in a little hobby vise and with a small diamond file from the hobby shop, I rounded off every edge on the hammer face, I didn't just "break the edge." I then took some 400, 600, 1000 grit sand paper and polished all the surfaces of the hammer face. I have fired more than 400 rounds after the modification without a single cap jam of any sort. I have even put the factory nipples back on and still no cap jams.
 
No. Colt's safety system works with a groove in the hammer face that sits on a pin on the rear of the cylinder. This groove is what can catch and grab spent caps.

Remington's system places the nose of the hammer into a notch on the back of the cylinder. It has no groove.
 
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