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Crockett hammer sucks caps

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doubleset

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I'm still experimenting with my new Crockett .32 rifle. It's going well, and I really like the gun, though there are one or two more things I need to fix with it. First among these is its terrible propensity to suck and tightly hold onto the fired cap in the hammer face. At this point, I have this down to what's just a persistent chore of freeing the cap with a pick or a knife blade or even fingernail. But I'd really like to get it so that the cap isn't getting stuck -- or at least stuck so tightly.

So far, what I've done is to smooth out and open up a the V notch a bit. This makes the stuck cap easier to get out, but it doesn't seem to affect the caps getting stuck in the hammer face more often than not. I've also smoothed out the interior of the hammer face with a stone. This seems to have resulted in some improvement in terms of how stuck the caps get, but it's still pulling the cap off the nipple and holding onto it. The rim of the hammer face does seem to have a minor (casting?) flaw in the bottom edge where it's just very slightly flattened on the inside and there's a VERY small shallow groove in the inside of the rim at that point. I'm a bit skeptical that this is the primary problem, but it may be.

I don't (and never have had) this problem with my Lyman GP rifle. One thing I noticed almost immediately with the Crockett is that while the diameter of the hammer face is about the same (within about half a mm) of the GP hammer face, the Crockett one is significantly deeper. Putting a depth gauge on it, the GP hammer face is about 2.9mm deep and the Crockett is about 4.2mm deep -- so the difference is 1.3mm, which seems like quite a bit (approaching a 50% depth increase over the GP face).

Any thoughts on why the face on the Crockett is so deep? I mic the percussion caps I'm currently using at 3.8mm tall. This means that they're in fact taller than the GP hammer face recess. And indeed, it you put an unfired cap into the GP hammer face, it sits proud of it by about 1mm. It certainly might explain the increase in the inclination of the Crockett to hold onto fired caps. But these differences vary with manufacturer. I mic my CCI #11 caps at 4.2mm (oddly the same height as the recess in the Crockett hammer face?). I'm wondering if Traditions doesn't view this as a "safety issue" and is attempting to provide hammers that "fully enclose" the percussion cap when it's fired. Of course, such a design is probably at least in part responsible for the V vent in the Traditions hammers -- which is missing in the case of the Lyman. I don't want to debate the potential safety question here, except to observe that it's very difficult to establish empirically and that Lyman (among others) has not seemed to have a problem with the alternative.

For my own part, I'm thinking that some careful and judicious filing of the face rim would (1) eliminate the minor casting flaw in it, and (2) maybe eliminate the cap sucking (possibly exacerbated by the "full enclosure" of the cap?). Has anyone out there done anything similar to this hammer (or to any other)?
 
I'v often cleaned up the inside og the hammer cup by folding a piece of emory or fine sandpaper over the head of a pencil erasor, seems to cure most issues.
 
Yeah, the inside of the cup seems pretty smooth at this point. I used a Dremel at very low speed with a chain sharpening stone. I'd thought of the pencil/eraser approach, but it seemed tedious. But it's worth a try with that. I sure have enough emory paper around here with grits from about 60 to 2000.
 
Yeah, the inside of the cup seems pretty smooth at this point. I used a Dremel at very low speed with a chain sharpening stone. I'd thought of the pencil/eraser approach, but it seemed tedious. But it's worth a try with that. I sure have enough emory paper around here with grits from about 60 to 2000.
Many small gunsmithing problems become huge gunsmithing problems when using too fast of a tool. lol
 
Pretty much what I've been thinking once I did the careful comparison between the Crockett and the GPR. I'll just approach it carefully and test in stages. Thanks.
 
Easier solution and no work involved, change brand of caps.

Remington caps shatter very easily when hit with a hammer compared to CCI. Or try RWS.
 
Heard the same thing about Knight Red Hot Nipples, double taper design ensures positive firing and prevents caps from sticking, stainless steel. Just bought 2, waiting to put them on this weekend.
 
I'm still experimenting with my new Crockett .32 rifle. It's going well, and I really like the gun, though there are one or two more things I need to fix with it. First among these is its terrible propensity to suck and tightly hold onto the fired cap in the hammer face. At this point, I have this down to what's just a persistent chore of freeing the cap with a pick or a knife blade or even fingernail. But I'd really like to get it so that the cap isn't getting stuck -- or at least stuck so tightly.
Some have said to shorten the hammer cavity. Might help, but personally I like to have the cap coverage to minimize outward fragmentation. Hot metal fragments are not good heading in your direction. Make the cavity larger in diameter if at all possible.
keep us posted! Good luck!
Larry
 
I have Remington, CCI, and RWS. I've used both CCI and Remington on this gun with no obvious difference. But it's worth re-investigating that. However, that leaves us with fact that none of those give me problems on the GPR.

But it's possible that switching to a different nipple could make a difference -- or that modifying the nipple a bit might. I'm using the same stainless (TOW) nipple on the GPR as on the Crockett, but I had to file it down a bit on the GPR in order to get good even contact from the hammer. As a result, the cap fits onto the GPR a bit more tightly than on the Crockett. So this line merits exploring.
 
Reason I suggested Remington caps is that on revolvers a lot of times CCI do not fragments/explode and fall into the action causing caps jams. Remington's tend to disintegrate and do not fall into the action. Cheap fix I thought.
 
... personally I like to have the cap coverage to minimize outward fragmentation. Hot metal fragments are not good heading in your direction. Make the cavity larger in diameter if at all possible.

I'm with you on this in spirit. I've only had a primer give up on me once (experimenting with some of my own handloads in an M14), and the only damage was a bit of hot brass in the forehead. But not an experience I want to repeat.

However, I've put a LOT of balls downrange with that GPR (since for a while I was shooting matches pretty regularly and practicing for them as well) and never had any issue from the nipples or caps on it. So as a practical matter, I'm not any more concerned about that than I am fragments somehow coming through that V vent in the Traditions hammer. I mean, that hammer actually has a pretty big SLOT in it!! 🙂
 
Reason I suggested Remington caps is that on revolvers a lot of times CCI do not fragments/explode and fall into the action causing caps jams. Remington's tend to disintegrate and do not fall into the action. Cheap fix I thought.

Hmmm ... That might go some way to explaining how I screwed up the action of my 1851 Navy replica some years ago. 🙄 One of the projects this winter is to fit a new cylinder to it and time it correctly.
 
I think increasing the cup diameter might help.
First I would check out different brands to see
if all brands suck off the nipple the same. That is
if you can borrow or get the caps.
 
Heard the same thing about Knight Red Hot Nipples, double taper design ensures positive firing and prevents caps from sticking, stainless steel. Just bought 2, waiting to put them on this weekend.
The hot shot nipples basically split the caps down the center and they just fall off when the hammer is re-cocked. I've never had any with blowback using them.
 
Hot shot nipples are my favorite and lots of other folks. Cheaper to swap nipples and caps versus grinding on the hammer. Hard to put metal back on a hammer.
 
Same issue with caps on my TV. I tapered the wall on the hammer a tad. The caps still hang in the hammer but practically fall out with the slightest contact.
 
What caps are you using? Are they mag caps by chance?
I have experienced this using mag caps in my Renegade.
About 90% of #11 CCI mag caps get stuck in the cup and I can't get them out without using my nipple pick.
If I use standard #11 CCI caps it is rare for them to get stuck, they either fall right out when I lift the hammer or I can simply flick them out with a finger.
 

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