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50 cal not hitting broadside of barn

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Blue Loctite didn't work slid the site out of groove with my 2 fingers. Got a nap propane heated site up smacked her a couple times don't know if it did anything. Put it back in groove and it seems tighter cant move it with my fingers like before and Ive had folk on here giving me different things to try and tighten it up maybe this will work. Last yr just taking it out of the gun sock it took the site right off I thought I lost it in the woods but it was in the bottom of the sock.
 
Locktite requires an already very tight fit and just locks it in place; blue temporary and red . . . be ready to get the propane torch out to loosen it.

Either you need to do metal work or use J-B Weld. (aka: Gunsmith vs. Redneck).

But I REALLY like J-B Weld. :wink:

I also have several pieces of brass shim stock and either sliding a strip into the vertical angle between the sight and the barrel or under the sight has saved me many times.
 
Just order a new site from track and shape the base for a nice tight fit. Anything else is just Jerry rigging unless you can add metal to the existing site base.
 
TwoWithOne said:
Blue Loctite didn't work slid the site out of groove with my 2 fingers...
Thread locking compounds require a couple of things to work.

ӢThe surfaces must be steel or iron.

ӢStainless steel, brass, bronze, copper and several other metals must have a thread locking primer applied to them to activate the locking compound.

ӢThe surfaces must be absolutely clean.

ӢThe surfaces must be under pressure like a thread is when it is tightened.
 
The problem with using things like glue, loc-tite, even epoxy, is that time, cleaning chemicals/solvents and barrel vibration/expansion from firing can break the bond....

That's what happened to me....
 
Someone on here mentioned peening and I did this also to no avail like I said I could pull it out of the groove with my 2 fingers.Taking her out to the range Monday too see wheres shes shooting now that the sight has been moved and hope everything goes ok. :thumbsup:
 
I was shooting on a wood bench 50 yards using a mini seat as the gun rest it has 3 legs and is perfect height to my shoulder when I sit down. I pin it with my hand and doesnt move very much when fired. Could result in the shoots sliding to right after I adjusted to center at 25. But if I aim for lungs I get lungs or heart where it's at now so good for now considering the actual temp was negative 8 this morning.
 
I pin it with my hand and doesnt move very much when fired.

When shooting a rifle from a rest the key word is "rest" not restricted. :nono:
The rest point should be where you normally hold with your hand on the forestock with offhand position. The rifle will begin it's recoil movement before the ball/bullet leaves the muzzle. But, the key to accuracy is to have that ball leave the muzzle at the same point of recoil every time you shoot. I believe this phenomenon is most known and taken into account with pistol shooters. Kudos to you for continuing to experiment. Now, go back and do it again. :thumbsup:
 
Maybe my choice of words is the confusion. I use a rest that just lifts the front so no sway. And positing my hands where I shoot.
 
You mentioned you did peen it. Try peening the lips of the dovetail on barrel using a wide punch of either brass or aluminum, something that won't mar the barrel surface, before before you place the rear sight in. You could also use a socket extension lying on its side left to right across the dovetail to distribute the weight of the taps/strike of the hammer. Without the sight in the lips of the dovetail should be easier to bend. You don't want to just do it on the edge of the lips you want to try and bend the whole side of the dovetail. Do it a little at a time on both the breach and muzzle side of the dovetail, till it starts feeling snug to tight when you slide the rear sight in. When it is tight then peen the dovetail lip edge to the sight to anchor it in place. DANNY
 

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