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Lyman trade rifle sights

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crazie

32 Cal.
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I'm looking to upgrade sights on my Lyman trade rifle. I do not like the look of the Tang peep sight for the Lyman. My question is will the Williams bullseye sight work on a Lyman being the rear sight is half way down the barrel?
 
I think I know which sight, that you are referring to. Because the opening is much bigger, I think that's what makes it work. The farther from the eye, the larger the opening would have to be.

We just recently discussed this issue, somewhere, on this forum.

My recommendation, in that situation was to use the Johnson peep or take a long sight designed for the traditional Hawken and fit it to the barrel. In some cases the dovetail would have to be ground off the sight and drill holes to match the existing holes. Assuming that you did not want to modify the barrel.

I think Skinner Sights, has some sights that might work, however, it might need a taller front sight. But the Skinner, is a peep sight, but mounted on the barrel.
 
I took my globe front & rear peep sights offa my flint Grapefruit slayer (.54 cal. Deerstalker) & put them on my Trade Rifle. Don't care what it looks like, since enhanced performance / accuracy was the goal. I've slapped yet another batch of centerfire rifle shooters into the realization that my OooLD school flint technology is more accurate than their modern, spendy 'hi performance' Christmas present stuff and doesn't even need set triggers!

Destruction rate on grapefruit-sized frozen water balloons at 100 yards is 100%. about 60% with clay birds, although I just got a set of front & rear 'sandbags' & need just decide what to fill them with: rice, or dried beans. Sitting at a bench instead of offhand will bring up the smaller clay bird kill rate, and the peep sight gives a better sight picture. The "primitive" sights on another Lyman rifle are still deceptively accurate, so you can still have more traditional looks with annoyingly accurate results.

The secret to single trigger performance is to visit a locksmith & get a reduced power spring to replace the one in the lock's sear plunger. Break in a new lock by removing all oil from the sear pivot point and cycle / fire it all day - 50 or more shots. Disassemble & clean out the sear plunger recess before inserting the new spring. The sear must move freely at each end of travel to produce a smooth and light trigger release.
 

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