Making a cannon

Reckon it'll be much lighter after its been to the lathe for some streamlining.

The "blank" for my 1/5 scale 24 pounder started at 100+ pounds and finished at 45. Starting diameter was 4.375"; max finished diameter is 4".

Both CU Cannon and Scota are correct.
Welding should only be done to 4140 if you know how to preheat and control the cooling.
Machining is a bit more tricky on the 4140 as well. I'm lucky to have the large tools at my disposal and if I worked at a smaller shop would use 1018 for sure.

Craig

I have more to add,

I used seamless steel tubing for a 4-bore caplock (1" bore). I did not need to any extra machining on the bore. The barrel started as 1 3/4 od 1" id. I turned a taper on the outside and breeched it up. I would not mess around with drilling solid stock for something so small.

I have read debates about DOM and shelby tubing being used as barrels. Some would say it is not safe. The deabte is long winded with lots of opinions on both sides. I can't say who is right. It is sort of like the leaded steel vs 4140 debate.

I paid my money and took my chances. I personally believe by barrel is stronger than an original. It is much thicker than an original, the steel is better and the originals were often thin damascus.

Scota4570 said:

I used seamless steel tubing for a 4-bore caplock (1" bore). I did not need to any extra machining on the bore. The barrel started as 1 3/4 od 1" id.

Click to expand...

Who was your supplier for the seamless tubing?

Andy

The local steel supply and machine shop.

Any pics for us? :hmm:

the gent in the picture (3/25 posting) would never have been able to be there at one of our cannon events. :shake: :shake: :shake:

EVERYONE must be in back of the muzzle. Not trying to be a party pooper, just do not want to read of another article in the cannon disaster section.

Hard enough to do anything these days w/o more fire for the anti-(you fill-in...everything fun) groups.
NUF said.

Pics?
[url] http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t127/Scot_4570/?action=view&current=mortar.jpg[/url]
[url] http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t127/Scot_4570/?action=view&current=4bore.jpg[/url]

Nice pic's Scott
Like the mortar. Is the trunion bolted on or welded? I think I'll make one of this style for the next one

Craig

The trunion is bolted with two long cap screws. The tube is made in two pieces and threaded together. The breech end is long and the powder chamber is only 1" in diameter so I could get the cap screws in there. The only tricky part was cutting the depression for the trunion in th ebase of the tube. I used a very long adjustable flycutter. It was very slow going. Lashing the tube to the mill table is no easy task. It if moves you end up with a huge mess.

Thanks for the info, We have large V-Blocks and I'll be doing it on a 6" spindle G&L by plunging a 2" end mill, then a boreing bar for the finish.

Thanks Again!
Craig

Cool Mortar Scota! :thumbsup:

I am making one now and I used a large chunk of steel from my place that had been laying around for the past 20 years.

It is a huge chunk of chrome vanadium and it is a bear to machine. The chrome will be nice for corrosion resistance, and the vanadium is a wonderful grain stabilizer.

The bore is now punched and I am now working on the outer barrel profile.

I'm trying to make one :rotf:

Spent the past 3 days learning about cutting polystyrene with a hot wire to make patterns for cast iron axle boxes. They are getting better, slowly :thumbsup:

Robin, hows the "other" cannon coming along-?
have you found away to get the obstruction out...

bavarialand said:

Robin, hows the "other" cannon coming along-?
have you found away to get the obstruction out...

Click to expand...

It's on my list and the next attempt is unsubtle.

I plan to engage the obstruction using an expanding plug and then pull with 1" studding and an 18" Stilson :thumbsup:

"I plan to engage the obstruction using an expanding plug and then pull with 1" studding and an 18" Stilson "

I think we have the same idea. If you can get a secure bite in it you can jack it out with a large nut and bolt. Put a big plate with a hole in it over the muzzle. A great big bolt or all thread goes through the hole and into the obstruction. A nut then screws down against the muzzle cover plate. Tightening the nut give huge pulling power. The idea is like a stuck case remover for metallic cartridge loading dies.

I'm in the process of building two 12 pound mountian howitzers to 1/3 scale from the "Buckstix" blueprints. Drawings are well detailed. I'm using 1018 solid stock for the barrel. I have a peice of seamless tubing approx. 30"long 2 1/4 o.d. with a one inch bore that I was going to use but needed 1 3/8 'o.d. to scale to my project. Anyone wants this tubing can have it. I'm located in east central Michigan. Pickup only.
Oaks: