What do ya'll use as a sealer on your long arms after stain

[Alden]

I asked a gunsmith, a real gunmaker, about finish on a gun of mine that was getting Aqua Fortis'd. I mentioned Tru-oil. He stared at me and told me he was a professional and no, he would not use Tru-oil .

 

[Zonie]

That's one of the joys of not being "a real gunmaker".

I can use my Tru-Oil and I'm still happy with the final results. :grin:

 

[Artificer]

I asked a gunsmith, a real gunmaker, about finish on a gun of mine that was getting Aqua Fortis'd. I mentioned Tru-oil. He stared at me and told me he was a professional and no, he would not use Tru-oil .

Did he say what he did use? The reason I ask is because only spar varnish will give a more water resistant finish unless one goes to an epoxy finish. Probably the toughest finish used on gun stocks was/is Fullerplast.

Gus

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
I go simple. I simply seal my stocks with Sutherland-Welles polymerized tung oil that is thinned with mineral spirits (50/50). Then unthinned polymerized tung oil as the top coats. I used to use a sealing mixture of 25% polyurethane varnish, 25% tung oil, and 50% turps or mineral spirits. However, after many years of building and using guns in the extreme wet and salty conditions in Southeast Alaska, I could detect no difference in durability of finish between the polyurethane mix and just polymerized tung oil. Now I just go simple. Thinning the polymerized oil allows it to penetrate deeper in the wood (I've actually tested this). Formby's tung oil finish is a wiping varnish made from derivitives refined from tung oil and other drying solvents. I've used it many times on furniture but I do not believe it makes a good sealer because it does not penetrate very deeply. It works as a top coat but there are far better finishes for sealing. I believe Tru-oil is polymerized linseed oil combined with other drying solvents. Permalyn should make a pretty good sealer if thinned. I don't care for it because it dries too fast and it is too easy to create shiny build up in corners and around carving. You have to be really vigilant in wiping off the excess. My polymerized tung oil is a bit easier to use.

dave

 

[Crewdawg445]

I just re finished my Lyman GPR, four coats of minwax polyrub overtop four hand rubbed applications of linseed oil... Turned out looking gorgeous. I've used tru-oil and do like it. However, I've found the polyrub is much thinner and easier to work with, also 100% waterproof. I also knock back the shine with 0000 wool and lastly a good wax. I think there's a million different approaches that will spark debates for years. For some reason, I ALWAYS end up going back to good ole hand rubbed boiled linseed oil!

 

[Zonie]

I realize most of you already know this but since the topic is about using a "sealer" I'll mention something to the newbies.

Some time back a new builder sealed his stock right after he had whiskered it.

The sealer did its job just like it should. It sealed the pores of the wood to protect it.

Because it is sealing the wood, after it is applied it is impossible to stain the stock (as the guy found out much to his displeasure).

Stains must be applied only to bare wood so it can sink in and color the fibers.

This applies to Aqua Fortis as well. It will only work if it is applied to bare wood.

The moral of the story is, do NOT apply a sealer or a finishing oil before you have stained the wood, if that is what you want to do. (Most Walnut doesn't require a stain).

After you are happy with the staining, then either apply a sealer or just the finish oil coats.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Good info :hatsoff: It's like painting then priming!

 

[Tinker2]

I asked a gunsmith, a real gunmaker, about finish on a gun of mine that was getting Aqua Fortis'd. I mentioned Tru-oil. He stared at me and told me he was a professional and no, he would not use Tru-oil .

My guess is what he would use would be based on what he was making.
I don’t have one finish for all things, nether would he.



William Alexander