• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Triggger problem

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Grantman

36 Cal.
Joined
Feb 18, 2005
Messages
80
Reaction score
0
I split the stock on my RMC flinter a couple of years ago. Laminated POS was really ugly anyhow, but rest of rifle is nice: L&R lock & Green Mountain barrel. Before stock split, trigger pull was exatly 2.5 pounds with no creep. Found a stock in local dealer's junk bin. It is pretty close, but still ugly. Just needed minimal inletting and lock and barrel dropped right in. I glassed everthing, including tang. Everthing functions,but now trigger pull is 10 pounds easy. Trigger is single style. Any ideas what I did wrong. This is my first experience inletting a flinter.
 
There are several things that might be contributing to the problem but I think the most likely culprit is probably the position of the trigger in relation to the sear. If the trigger is positioned too far forward of the sear it will take more pressure to release the tumbler. Check the old stock for proper position.
Another likely problem is rubbing of the internal moving parts of the lock against the wood in the lock mortice.
I would check for these conditions first.
 
Thanks for the advice. I don't think anything is binding with the lock inletting. Probably, the trigger position is wrong. 10 days until the PA flint hunt, so I'm going to set my problem child aside and hunt with my TC. Plan is to send the original stock to a duplicator and install double set triggers this winter.
 
I like to position the trigger pivot 5/16 to 3/8 inches ahead of the locks sear arm.

You might check the trigger pivots location for starters. I'm bettin' it'w WAY forward of my recommendation.
 
for what it's worth, every time i've had a similar problem, it turned out to me bad mortise cutting on my part, and every time i got it fixed, the problem cleared up...
 
I'm going to fool with this thing this evening, just for the practice. I finally found out what L&R lock is on the rifle. It is the L&R model 900 Late English lock. Tim, at L&R provided the info and says that I can make a set trigger work, but not with the original stock design. The stock I'm working on is a laminate, of unknown provenance, with two wedge keys. Almost as ugly as the original RMC wood. Anybody here know of a factory stock that would be close? Might be able to save some $$$.
 
To verify that the trigger is not binding you could remove the lock and pull the trigger. If it moves freely, and you can see it move up into the sear bar mortise, then that is not the problem. If something is stopping it, then you can make a 1/8" wood chisel by grinding one end of an allen wrench to chisel shape and stoning it sharp. (cut off the right angle end)

To verify that the sear bar mortise is allowing the sear bar to rotate upward is next. If the trigger is pushing up against a sear bar that is caught by too much wood, then that also could cause a heavy trigger pull. The cure is again a minute's attention with a sharp chisel.

Hope this helps...
 
Back
Top