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Tomahawk
- Thread starter anvil1231
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Black Hand
Cannon
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Beautiful work! I'd be proud to own one!!
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That is really nice man. I normally don't like spike hawks, but that one I like. Love that clean work!!
Great looking hawk and work!
A lot of people re-forge hammer heads. They are made of good tool steel, and that handle eye is already punched! Ballpeen hammers make very good spike hawks. Claw hammers with the square eye make great small adzes like bowl makers adzes - clip the claws off and forge the striking head to the shape you want. Again, that handle eye is alread done for you, and the square eye shape is traditional for an adze.
The book Tomahawks Illustraded by Rober Kuck shows a spike hawk on page 67 that shows all the classic ballpeen hammer head shape in the eye area. And another on page 76. The book has great pictures, but almost nothing for dates and documentation.
yhs
Mike Ameling
p.s. Ballpeen hammer heads are also great for converting into handled tools in the shop - punches, chisels, fullers, texturing stamps, etc. Re-shape one end to the shape of tool you want, and the other end becomes the top part you hit with your striking hammer (or treadle hammer).
A lot of people re-forge hammer heads. They are made of good tool steel, and that handle eye is already punched! Ballpeen hammers make very good spike hawks. Claw hammers with the square eye make great small adzes like bowl makers adzes - clip the claws off and forge the striking head to the shape you want. Again, that handle eye is alread done for you, and the square eye shape is traditional for an adze.
The book Tomahawks Illustraded by Rober Kuck shows a spike hawk on page 67 that shows all the classic ballpeen hammer head shape in the eye area. And another on page 76. The book has great pictures, but almost nothing for dates and documentation.
yhs
Mike Ameling
p.s. Ballpeen hammer heads are also great for converting into handled tools in the shop - punches, chisels, fullers, texturing stamps, etc. Re-shape one end to the shape of tool you want, and the other end becomes the top part you hit with your striking hammer (or treadle hammer).
The way I temper is by heating the edge and the spike til they will not stick to a magnet (usally not quite a bright red)then quench in transmission fluid. polish the edge a little and heat just behind were I heated before until I have a straw or blue color depending how thick the blade is. Straw being a harder temper than blue. I use a lot of RR spikes for knives and hawks they are a low medium carbon. They will get sharp but will not hold a good edge without case hardening with sure hard or kwik hard hardening powder aviable at most large welding suppliers. Once I harden the rr spikes I don not draw the temper back To answer your question musketman the spike is the ball the hammer is the blade. anvil
