First, Happy New Year ! I bought mine today at Cabela's. Happy. The wedge is sticking out about a 1/2 inch on the left of the revolver. The other end is flush with the barrel. Is it "in"? Does it need to be driven through so it protrudes on the right side of the revolver? And that screw above the wedge . . . do I do anything with that one way or the other? Please let me know. I don't want to mess it up. Thanks
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The Wedge in an 1851 Navy
- Thread starter Brik847
- Start date
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Dave Rosenthal
70 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2006
- Messages
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On the Colts as long as the "springy" piece of metal on the wedge is released and slightly sticking-out of the side of the revolver, you'll be O-K. The edge of the spring pops up so as to not allow the wedge to fall out by itself. To remove the wedge to get the barrel off of the arbor one must push down on the spring and slide the wedge out while doing so.
As far as the wedge screw goes...it's there to prevent the wedge from moving. Please refer to the Instructions and Diagrams that came with the gun.
Is this your first revolver? Are you going to shoot it or is it just to look at? Do you need recommendations on supplies or loads, etc.?
Dave
As far as the wedge screw goes...it's there to prevent the wedge from moving. Please refer to the Instructions and Diagrams that came with the gun.
Is this your first revolver? Are you going to shoot it or is it just to look at? Do you need recommendations on supplies or loads, etc.?
Dave
Dave Rosenthal
70 Cal.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2006
- Messages
- 4,470
- Reaction score
- 22
Is the spring exposed and in the up position? If yes, did you push down onto the spring on the wedge and try to push it through at the same time?
Dave
Dave
Rebel
Cannon
Mine was just like that when i first got it but after removing and replacing the wedge a few times to clean it after shooting it now goes in further and come out easier. They are really tight to begin with. Take a brass drift and piece of hardwood and knock the wedge out. It will come loose.
Yeah, there is nothing in the instruction book really - no details on the wedge. I guess what I think to do is loosen that screw a little (?) and punch the wedge out, then drive it back in after cleaning and tighten the screw again. I read somewhere a clothespin half fits and works. Also, the wedge doesn't need to go back in all that far. But still, any new word would be great.
The little screw does not hold the wedge in.
In fact, it is designed to hold the wedge out.
The barrel wedges are tapered and the further you drive them in, the more the barrel moves back towards the cylinder and the frame.
Ideally, the barrel will seat against the frame at the bottom at the same time that the very end of the wedge sticks out of the right side of the barrel about 1/16 of an inch. Just enough to allow the little finger on the spring to catch on the barrels surface.
With the wedge in this position, the little screw should be backed out until it stops against the head of the wedge. That way, every time the guns wedge is pulled to clean it or to change cylinders, when the wedge is driven back in it will hit the screw head and stop at the correct position.
When I said Ideally, it was because this is not a perfect world and the Colt design is not a perfect design.
The tolerances of all of the parts results in the tip of the wedge sometimes ending up just flush with the right side of the barrel and on other guns it may stick thru quite a ways.
Rather than worrying about the end of the wedge, the thing to look for is that the barrel is tight against the lower frame.
Yes, some of the companies ship their guns with the wedge installed VERY TIGHTLY. It will come free if you use a brass or bronze rod as a driver and hit it with a hammer soundly.
I think the companies don't lubricate the wedge properly when they install it at the factory.
It should always have a light coating of grease on it and in the slot thru the cylinder pin.
While I'm talking about removing that wedge, be careful not to get your finger in a place where it will get whacked if the wedge suddenly moves totally out of the slot. I say this from experience.
Pistols nipple wrenches are a bit smaller in diameter than the typical rifle wrench to allow them to fit down into the recess around the nipple.
There are several companies making them but this is not the place to save a few cents.
The better ones are heat treated so they will last while the cheap ones are often left soft.
If they are soft the little fingers on the end that grab the flats on the nipple will get marred up or will spring open and not return to their original shape. Worse, some of the cheap ones will break if forced too hard.
Once the nipples are removed I strongly suggest that you apply a thread "anti-seize material that you can get at an auto supply store.
These threads seem to have a real liking for getting stuck because of the fouling from shooting.
In fact, it is designed to hold the wedge out.
The barrel wedges are tapered and the further you drive them in, the more the barrel moves back towards the cylinder and the frame.
Ideally, the barrel will seat against the frame at the bottom at the same time that the very end of the wedge sticks out of the right side of the barrel about 1/16 of an inch. Just enough to allow the little finger on the spring to catch on the barrels surface.
With the wedge in this position, the little screw should be backed out until it stops against the head of the wedge. That way, every time the guns wedge is pulled to clean it or to change cylinders, when the wedge is driven back in it will hit the screw head and stop at the correct position.
When I said Ideally, it was because this is not a perfect world and the Colt design is not a perfect design.
The tolerances of all of the parts results in the tip of the wedge sometimes ending up just flush with the right side of the barrel and on other guns it may stick thru quite a ways.
Rather than worrying about the end of the wedge, the thing to look for is that the barrel is tight against the lower frame.
Yes, some of the companies ship their guns with the wedge installed VERY TIGHTLY. It will come free if you use a brass or bronze rod as a driver and hit it with a hammer soundly.
I think the companies don't lubricate the wedge properly when they install it at the factory.
It should always have a light coating of grease on it and in the slot thru the cylinder pin.
While I'm talking about removing that wedge, be careful not to get your finger in a place where it will get whacked if the wedge suddenly moves totally out of the slot. I say this from experience.
Pistols nipple wrenches are a bit smaller in diameter than the typical rifle wrench to allow them to fit down into the recess around the nipple.
There are several companies making them but this is not the place to save a few cents.
The better ones are heat treated so they will last while the cheap ones are often left soft.
If they are soft the little fingers on the end that grab the flats on the nipple will get marred up or will spring open and not return to their original shape. Worse, some of the cheap ones will break if forced too hard.
Once the nipples are removed I strongly suggest that you apply a thread "anti-seize material that you can get at an auto supply store.
These threads seem to have a real liking for getting stuck because of the fouling from shooting.
Rebel
Cannon
Yep. You will need a special large revolver nipple wrench for it. And when you get that wedge out just tap it back in with a hammer handle or other piece of hardwood. After a few times you will see that it is going in further. I haven't been able to drive my wedge in far enough to bind up the cylinder on the barrel. Not that you want to do that. :wink:
Rebel
Cannon
Yep. Like i said, i can't drive my wedge in far enough to bind the cyl. on mine. Try to get about an .008"-.010" barrel cylinder gap if you can. If you can't then just shoot it with what ya can get. :grin:
Guest
I just got mine cleaned up today and the wedge was the same as yours.Just drove it out with a small dowel and tack hammer.The wedge and slot were both dry and I put a light coating of grease on before tapping the wedge back in.
I also am in need of a nipple wrench for it as my only other BP revolver is a Walker and won't work.Also what caps would you fellows recommend?
The RWS # 11's I have seem awfully tight and the #10's for the Walker at out of the question.What do you find are the best?
Dan from Ozark
I also am in need of a nipple wrench for it as my only other BP revolver is a Walker and won't work.Also what caps would you fellows recommend?
The RWS # 11's I have seem awfully tight and the #10's for the Walker at out of the question.What do you find are the best?
Dan from Ozark
Rebel
Cannon
#11 CCI caps work good on mine. I tried CCI #10s but they were to small.
Guest
Thanks
I'll pick some up when I can.The local guys shop burned down last week so I'll have to hunt up somebody else.
What brand or style nipple wrench should I be looking for?
Dan
I'll pick some up when I can.The local guys shop burned down last week so I'll have to hunt up somebody else.
What brand or style nipple wrench should I be looking for?
Dan
Rebel
Cannon
Any brand for the large revolvers. They have ones for the small pocket pistols, larger Navies and Armies, and then some for the Walkers and Dragoons and a different one for the Ruger Old Army. Any that fit the Armies and Navies will work.
Guest
Thanks again
Dan from Ozark
Dan from Ozark
Rebel
Cannon
Mine does well with 27 grs Goex 3f then fill the chamber nearly full with Cream Of Wheat and a home cast .454 rd ball and CCI #11 caps.
