RPL Lock for GPR

[Mike_AK]

I am thinking of upgrading the lock on the GPR I am building. Does anyone have experience with the L&R RPL lock in a GPR? I would also be interested in advice on drop-in replacement triggers if there are any out there. Thanks.

 

[BrownBear]

I haven't felt the need for a replacement lock, but I'll climb a tall soap box for the R.E. Davis "Deerslayer" replacement trigger. It's actually intended for the TC Hawken, but fits the GPR perfectly. Sometimes you have to shave a tiny bit of wood (molecules) to make the trigger plate fit the mortise, but sometimes it drops in directly.

The set trigger is reason enough to use it, but for shooting without setting the trigger, you can't beat it. The unset trigger is so crisp and clean on my rifles, I almost never bother to use the set trigger any more. And with a straight front trigger and that curved set trigger laying way back in the trigger guard, no confusion about which trigger you have your finger on in the heat of the moment.

Best $40 you'll ever spend on your rifle.

 

[MSW]

Brownbear, thanks for the heads up ... i've been thinking of putting a new trigger in my T/C and now with your good review i think i'll go for it. the original is a bit flakey (but i did buy the rifle used, and there's no telling what might have been done before i got it).

thanks again!

 

[phoenix511]

That's the best improvement you can make to that rifle. I've had the RPL for three years. The hammer rotation to full cock is about 1/3 of the original Lyman lock, making it much faster. The rotatation to half cock lifts the hammer face off the nipple about 10 degrees, which seems like a much safer arrangement.

And you get rid of the mushy coil spring. The RPL lock has a very crisp main spring. Workmanship far superior to the original Lyman.

I purchased a drop-in replacement trigger from ToTW several years ago, and that, too, was a great investment as it got rid of the flabby piano wire springs, however I don't see it currently cataloged. Lacking a drop-in, you could consider the L&R version, adapting the plate to fit the existing slot in the stock. You won't regret it.

 

[necchi]

, but I'll climb a tall soap box for the R.E. Davis "Deerslayer" replacement trigger.

Another +1 for that trigger, sweet addition to any rifle it fit's :thumbsup:

 

[LRB]

What are the problems with the Lyman triggers that cannot be fixed?

 

[BrownBear]

I'm sure someone with metal skills and experience could fix them, but on the ones I've owned the single, unset trigger has a pull of about 15 pounds and the set trigger takes that much or more pressure to set. The triggers are also virtually identical, and in the heat of the moment it's pretty easy to pull the set trigger when you mean to shoot, or to pull the front trigger when you intend to be setting. There's also the need to replace the small adjustment screw between the triggers with a longer one because the original screw doesn't engage the trigger mechanism at all- it's decorative only.

All that could be fixed by someone more trigger-savvy and metal-talented than me. If it means hiring someone to do it rather than doing it yourself, the Davis trigger is cheaper.

So far, any Lyman owner who has tried mine can't finish the day without ordering one of their own. It's that effective and replacement is dirt easy.

 

[BadHorse]

What are the problems with the Lyman triggers that cannot be fixed?

oh wow!!!! you really need to try the deerslayer triggers in a GPR!!!! night and day difference from the factory tiggers. you know the old saying, "you cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear". well the stock lyman triggers are a sows ear! i also will get on that "R. E. Davis deerslayer" soap box and sing its praise! and i cant wait to get my L&R lock for my GPR!! (its already ordered and on the way)

 

[LRB]

What are the problems with the Lyman triggers that cannot be fixed?

oh wow!!!! you really need to try the deerslayer triggers in a GPR!!!! night and day difference from the factory tiggers. you know the old saying, "you cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear". well the stock lyman triggers are a sows ear! i also will get on that "R. E. Davis deerslayer" soap box and sing its praise! and i cant wait to get my L&R lock for my GPR!! (its already ordered and on the way)

Well, we shall find out about that sows ear soon.

 

[BadHorse]

What are the problems with the Lyman triggers that cannot be fixed?

oh wow!!!! you really need to try the deerslayer triggers in a GPR!!!! night and day difference from the factory tiggers. you know the old saying, "you cant make a silk purse out of a sows ear". well the stock lyman triggers are a sows ear! i also will get on that "R. E. Davis deerslayer" soap box and sing its praise! and i cant wait to get my L&R lock for my GPR!! (its already ordered and on the way)

Well, we shall find out about that sows ear soon.

lmao,,,,,,, good luck buddy, i did "ALL" the work you can do on my factory triggers, polishing, longer screw to adjust the pull, oiled and on and on and on, and it still doesnt compare to the out of the box davis deerslayer.

 

[longcruise]

Well, we shall find out about that sows ear soon.

Well, that makes it seem that you are embarking on a GPR project?

FWIW, I will second all the negative statements made thus far regarding the GPR set triggers. After building three GPRs (fourth one ongoing) I have seen the gamut of trigger performance ranging from *can't even trip the sear shooting unset* to the previously referenced 15# trigger pull. They would be just as well to be a double trigger single set as with the southern style triggers, cause that front trigger on it's own is useless.

It's just poor geometry. The front trigger is pinned low with too much distance between the pin location and the sear. All the obvious fixes are made difficult by the fact that the tg and the trigger plate are factory inletted. The only way to make the front trigger work better is to move the trigger plate back to give more leverage. Not sure how far back one could go without having to move the tg nor how moving it back would effect the function of the set trigger strike on the sear.

Like Karwelis said, no amount of polishing or oiling will help because those just don't address the problems.

I like the set trigger for target work and when used set only it is just great. For hunting I don't like it because I don't want to *have* to set the trigger.

For my regular GPR shooter as well as the one I'm building now, I plan on making a drop in single trigger for hunting use. If you are planning a GPR project, I would recommend you do the same from the get go.

 

[LRB]

I am going to set myself up for a "I told ya so" fall, but I'm betting I can get at least a 3 lb pull off the front trigger and a breathe on it from the set position. Sometimes I love a challenge. "Lonehunter" will be the judge. It will be his gun.:grin: :thumbsup:

 

[BadHorse]

I am going to set myself up for a "I told ya so" fall, but I'm betting I can get at least a 3 lb pull off the front trigger and a breathe on it from the set position. Sometimes I love a challenge. "Lonehunter" will be the judge. It will be his gun.:grin: :thumbsup:

you know its only $40 for the davis triggers, and they turn a decent gun ito a really really good gun. i dont know about you, but all the darned time i put into those stupid factory triggers, i wish i just spent the money and saved all those hours!!!!!!

 

[LRB]

Chances are I would re-work the Davis triggers a little, so I might as well put in a little more time and do the Lymans. Aside from that, I'm a cheapskate. It's my Welsh blood line. The Welsh tried to teach the Scots thrift, but they were too busy playing their pipes to listen. :grin:

 

[longcruise]

I am going to set myself up for a "I told ya so" fall, but I'm betting I can get at least a 3 lb pull off the front trigger and a breathe on it from the set position. Sometimes I love a challenge.

Don't let the *I told you so* sayers to discourage you. Maybe you will provide the revelation that will make our triggers better. If not, you will have given it your best shot and what you learn along the way will benefit others.

I never had any problem achieving the desired pull with the trigger set. Here a bit of polishing will probably finetune it but the ones I have played with have been just fine in the set department. I saw one that did not have a long enough set adjustment screw, but that is easily remedied.

Good luck with it.

 

[BrownBear]

I never had any problem achieving the desired pull with the trigger set. Here a bit of polishing will probably finetune it but the ones I have played with have been just fine in the set department. I saw one that did not have a long enough set adjustment screw, but that is easily remedied.

I'm interested in what you can achieve, too. Take notes and photos along the way, if you can.

I had no trouble cleaning up and lightening the set pull for trigger with the screw replacement and a little fiddling. The pressure required to set the trigger in the first place is still phenomenal compared to the Davis.

Then there's the weight of the unset pull of the front trigger. It's creepy and heavy, and turning screws isn't going to fix its problems. A good guide to the internal adjustments to clean it up and lighten it would be really valuable to lots of folks.

 

[BadHorse]

Chances are I would re-work the Davis triggers a little, so I might as well put in a little more time and do the Lymans. Aside from that, I'm a cheapskate. It's my Welsh blood line. The Welsh tried to teach the Scots thrift, but they were too busy playing their pipes to listen. :grin:

lol,,,,,,when your done your gonna wish you just spent the $40, and the welsh weren't thrifty, theres no shopping in a bog!

greetings from Clan Donnachaidh