I just discovered this site while researching what my next ML would be. Currently I have a TC .54 Hawken that I've been using for 20 years and want to retire it so Its in nice shape to hand it down to my son in another 20 years). I have been debating getting an in-line so I could shoot pyrodex and sabots for less and easier cleaning. But the in-lines just look like toys to me. Has anyone ever tried loading a small charge of BP (like 10 grains) followed by the remainder of the load in Pyrodex. I would think that would guarentee ignition even in a side hammer.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Pyrodex over BP
- Thread starter Davy C
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I'm one who started out with a Knight inline and Pyrodex, then TC Hawken percussions with Pyrodex, then to my TC Hawken flintlocks with Goex BP.
I can tell you from that 15 year evolution & experience there is significant hype in the notion that BP subs are easier to cleanup up than 'real BP'...if you want your next rifle to last as long as yout .54 Hawken, you'll need to clean & lube it just as religously as you did your Hawken, regardles if it's the latest stainless steel wonder gun with space age BP substitute powder, etc.
In addition, shooting an inline is far more expensive than shooting a traditional ML with real BP...the powder is very expensive compared to real BP (ie: Goex), some of the sabot/bullet combinations are up over a dollar a round compared to patched balls...and inlines offer no advantage over a traditional styled ML unless you put a scope on it in hopes of a rare shot beyond 125yds...more expense.
And yes, also from personal experience I can say that "layered" loads of a little BP "starter" followed by Pyrodex-RS are as consistent & accurate as if I had been shooting the whole charge of Pyrodex. When I switched to flintlocks & Goex, and got over the initial learning curve, I then began using up leftover Pyrodex-RS in a flinter just that way...by dropping 20grns Goex downbore first, followed by various charges of Pyrodex-RS at the range...worked perfectly.
Guest
You must have missed this weeks thread on using pyrodex in flinters. Honest, we do this one every week, but usually it is in the flint section.
Flintlock sparks usually will not ignite pyrodex, but most percussion guns do fine with no need for a "primeing charge".
If your caplock will not ignite pyro then it is set up wrong, probably in the drum/nipple area. You should have no need for 209 primers or musket caps if your gun is set up right. Regular #11 caps and a proper nipple work for most shooters using loose pyrodex.
I have never used the "pellets", can't comment on them.
Flintlock sparks usually will not ignite pyrodex, but most percussion guns do fine with no need for a "primeing charge".
If your caplock will not ignite pyro then it is set up wrong, probably in the drum/nipple area. You should have no need for 209 primers or musket caps if your gun is set up right. Regular #11 caps and a proper nipple work for most shooters using loose pyrodex.
I have never used the "pellets", can't comment on them.
I'll second the ghost on this one. Though I've got musket nipples for my inlines and two of my sidelocks, I've never found need for anything more than CCI #11 Magnum caps. Remington #11's seem just as good. Pyrodex RS or pellets go off just fine every time unless there's moisture or lube in the flash channel.
When I compared the #11's to the musket caps in my Black Diamond, I seemed to get slightly better accuracy with the #11's. Someone else wrote about finding the same thing (Toby Bridges? Sam Fadala?).
I've used the Pyrodex pellets and don't like them. They were usually OK for 3 or 4 shots from a clean barrel but I couldn't seem to settle into a consistently accurate load with them. The fouling gradually built up to where loading got difficult and accuracy went out the window. Loose RS, on the other hand, would usually reach a 'steady-state' fouling level with minimal between shot fussing. When this occurred, accuracy was quite good for as long as you wanted to shoot. I may try pellets again next year. I've learned alot here on the forum and I can see my swabbing/loading technique may have been the problem.
The pellets also seemed to kick alot harder for equivalent weights. But, if you can believe the numbers they put in the T/C inline manuals, this is because they're pushing the bullet out faster. Don't know how that works. ::
Bob
When I compared the #11's to the musket caps in my Black Diamond, I seemed to get slightly better accuracy with the #11's. Someone else wrote about finding the same thing (Toby Bridges? Sam Fadala?).
I've used the Pyrodex pellets and don't like them. They were usually OK for 3 or 4 shots from a clean barrel but I couldn't seem to settle into a consistently accurate load with them. The fouling gradually built up to where loading got difficult and accuracy went out the window. Loose RS, on the other hand, would usually reach a 'steady-state' fouling level with minimal between shot fussing. When this occurred, accuracy was quite good for as long as you wanted to shoot. I may try pellets again next year. I've learned alot here on the forum and I can see my swabbing/loading technique may have been the problem.
The pellets also seemed to kick alot harder for equivalent weights. But, if you can believe the numbers they put in the T/C inline manuals, this is because they're pushing the bullet out faster. Don't know how that works. ::
Bob
Rat
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2004
- Messages
- 2,310
- Reaction score
- 592
If you can find some Swiss BP it is as easy to clean up as Pyro or T7.
Indeed, if you are getting any miss-fires with a side-hammer you may want to review your cleaning and loading techniques.
If that does not help then a look at the size of your flash channels and an evaluation of your nipple might help.
If none of that appeals to you then switch to real BP for sure for reliable ignition.
Was just watching a hunting show on TV just YESTERDAY...guy hunting moose with an inline. Well the gun does not go off, and the moose runs off, and they start talking about a "bad cap". Well they showed footage during the "bad cap", and the sound is on, and you can hear the cap go off! (quite loudly I would add) Bad cap my butt. Yeah right.
Rat
Indeed, if you are getting any miss-fires with a side-hammer you may want to review your cleaning and loading techniques.
If that does not help then a look at the size of your flash channels and an evaluation of your nipple might help.
If none of that appeals to you then switch to real BP for sure for reliable ignition.
Was just watching a hunting show on TV just YESTERDAY...guy hunting moose with an inline. Well the gun does not go off, and the moose runs off, and they start talking about a "bad cap". Well they showed footage during the "bad cap", and the sound is on, and you can hear the cap go off! (quite loudly I would add) Bad cap my butt. Yeah right.
Rat
