Proper methods to achieve PRB Accuracy

[mountainman119]

What must I do to be accurate with a Tip Curtis 36" Colerain barrel .62 cal smoothie and a PRB?

-MountainMan119

 

[rabjr]

Do everything the same everytime!

 

[roundball]

Accuracy issues usually fall either into the area of the firearm & components...or the shooter's techniques.
Focusing on the firearm & components associated with my deer hunting PRB accuracy, my approach was to measure the bore and verify its diameter because there is some variance between barrel manufacturers...mine measured a full .620".

I then got some .600" balls, and 2 sizes of patches: .015" and .020".
Using empty 35mm film canisters, I premeasured charges of Goex 3F and 2F (25 of each size charge) 80/90/100grns 3F...and...90/100/110/120grns 2F

Then went to the range and started methodically testing...first a couple initial groups at 25yds, then moved to 50yds for the rest of the tests.
Quickly narrowed things down to .600" balls and .020" patches as the best fit, most accurate combination.

Then stepped up through each set of powder charges and found that 110grns Goex 2F gave me the best accuracy at 50yds...settled on that for my deer load.

 

[No Deer]

What must I do to be accurate with a Tip Curtis 36" Colerain barrel .62 cal smoothie and a PRB?

-MountainMan119

Practice, practice, practice.

 

[paulvallandigham]

FIRST, measure that bore ourself to determine its exact bore diameter- Don't Guess, and DON'T assume. Colerain barrels have been reported to be only .605", or 21 gauge, in diameter by some users here, for instance.

Once you know the bore diameter,look to buy or cast RBs that are about .020" SMALLER than your actual bore diameter. THEN, buy some 100% Cotton fabric, that measures .015, .018, or .020 inches thick. Remember that fabric will compress, often up to 1/3 it measured thickness when pressed with a RB down your muzzle. The Fabric serves 4 functions- a LOT of work.

1. It centers the ball in the barrel- important when using under sized balls.
2. It acts as a Gas Seal, preventing hot gases from cutting your lead ball.
3. It carries Lube to grease the bore, to keep fouling soft for easier cleaning.
4. It holds the heavy ball to keep it from moving forward off the powder during movement of the gun.

For quick reloading?( There is no such thing as "speed reloading" a flintlock ) some people using a wad, or filler, between the powder and ball to provide the gas seal, so they can use a THINNER cloth patch around the ball. Personally, I prefer a slightly smaller diameter RB and a thicker patch, as it is easier to stuff down the bore, and the thicker patch insures the ball won't move off the powder( becoming a dangerous bore obstruction when the gun is fired.)

I recommend cleaning the bore between shots if you want good consistent accuracy from any smooth bore. Others differ.

Since these smooth bores are basically one shot hunting guns, Your practice and and shooting skills need to focus on accurate placement, NOT SPEED. You will usually only get the one shot. About the only compromise I use hunting i to carry a couple of PRBs in a ball block, lubed, of course, so that a second ball can be run down the muzzle fairly quickly. If its raining out, I have also been known to put my MEASURED powder charges in plastic tubes, and carry them in a shirt pocket. For priming powder, I still use 4Fg at the range- out of a small priming horn. However, in the field- particularly if its raining or damp out, I switch to using either 3Fg or my 2Fg powder I use for the main charge. I own one of the spring loaded priming measures that I won in a club shoot. I can carry it by its thong around my neck, under my raincoat, or in a large pocket in my hunting vest.

The one thing you can do to your lock to improve ignition Is to use a Dremel tool with a grinding bit to widen the flash pan in the lock. This will increase the size of the "TARGET" your sparks need to hit to insure ignition. While at it, polish the bottom of the pan mirror smooth, to aid in cleaning it, and to reduce opportunities for carbon crud to collect there and absorb water from the air. As long as your frizzen fully covers the widened pan, you should have no problems. There is plenty of metal,both fore and aft, of the existing pan to allow widening. The pan is also more shallow, so you don't have to use lots more powder to fill the pan.

I fill the pan on my fowling piece to the top, then use a flat edge( back of my patch knife) to take off the excess powder in the pan. The wider pan helps insure fast ignition when shooting shot loads at moving targets- clays or birds-- where a "Hang-fire" can spoil you "lead" on the target and result in a missed bird. :hmm: :hatsoff:

 

[hanshi]

I agree, Paul, when you say you like to use a smaller ball and thicker patch for reloads. I use a larger ball, .605 WW, with a thinner patch (usually) for the first shot though the small ball/thicker patch really does show some promise. It needs just a little more work.

 

[Leatherbelly]

Paul,
I agree with all you have posted. If a nice and tight combination is used and a sloppy wet patch,you clean your bore when you reload your second shot and the next and so on.. This eliminates having to wipe between shots. I shoot all day without swabbing and I shoot a trailwalk with 55 targets and sometimes I'll shoot some twice or more.This is with my home brewed water based lube for range and trail shooting.(one pint of Winter Windshield washer and 2 tablespoons of neatsfoot oil)shaken,not stirred. :wink: I'd sooner shoot then swish!lol!!

added: regarding a super wet patch. Many fear they might contaminate the fresh powder charge with a wet patch. Not so. The wet patch pushes the fouling down on top of your powder charge. I've never had an issue in 20 odd years of using this combo. Makes shooting more pleasurable and eliminates fiddling around with a wash=up and extra cleaning junk in your pouch. JMHO. Give it a try, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

[Robby]

I took your advice some years ago and have been shooting happily ever after! Thanks Leatherbelly! :thumbsup:
Robby

 

[tg]

I have found that hitting the spot I aim at works best for me :idunno:

Seriously I have found that with a well fitted gun I get good groups with a wide variety of balls patched or no patch, bareball with wadding, practice and proper fit are the keys. I do think some may be more prone to be natural smoothbore shooters than others, like traditional archery shooters, I do not feel I am one but have been lucky enough to make a gun that fits very well and likes a wide range of combos from .535-.570 in a .58 bore with different methods of wadding/patching

 

[paulvallandigham]

A water-based wet patch is fine on the range, where shots are fired relatively quickly after you load your gun. I cannot recommend such a " lube" if you are hunting under many conditions, where you sit, or stand, and wait for for a shot, or slow walk to stalk, locate, close, and shoot.

2 bad things can take place when you give "wet" patches time in your barrel:

1. Rust where the patch contacts the bore;

2. Water from the wet patch migrating into your powder charge, and fowling part of all of it, rendering the charge useless.

GOOD NEWS!: You can still use Wet "lube" when hunting if you take some additional steps.

Use some kind of dry barrier-= a dry cleaning patch, or OP wad between the powder and PRB to prevent moisture from migrating into your powder charge.

Use plastic wrap, or even wax paper under the PRB to act as a vapor barrier between the Patch and the bore.

Then, use a greased cleaning patch to lube the bore after the PRB is seated on the powder/vapor barrier. The grease protects the bore from rusting during the long hunt time. In fact, I have found my gun prefers I run the greased patch( wonderlube but any oil based lube with beeswax works as well)down the bore BEFORE I load my Powder wad, and PRB. I then use the plastic wrap under my RB only when hunting in the rain, or steady mist.

You only have to find that Rust ring ONE TIME in your barrel where the ball sits on the powder, and then spend hours polishing the bore to stop that pitted surface from tearing your patches, to learn WHY I don't recommend water based patch lubes on long hunts. :shocked2: :hmm:

 

[Leatherbelly]

Hello Paul,
Absolutely! For hunting I switch to pure Neetsfoot oil. Waterbased lubes strictly for range and woodswalk type shooting.Gotta go! Shooting for practice today. Dang it! All I've got is a rifle today! Sacrilege! :shocked2: New 28ga fowler on the bench.Soon.

 

[hanshi]

I'm also in agreement. If there's any possibility my gun will be loaded/unfired for more than just a little while I use a grease lube or something similar. That's why I load using Bore Butter, etc in the hunting woods; and I really don't particularly like it that much. Otherwise I much prefer Hoppes, Black Solve or spit.

 

[Dphar]

What must I do to be accurate with a Tip Curtis 36" Colerain barrel .62 cal smoothie and a PRB?

-MountainMan119

How much accuracy do you expect?
If it always does under 5" for 5 shots at 50 yards its probably doing pretty good.
If does not have rifle sights install a set.
Use a ball that will allow a .018 +- patch with a fairly tight fit and use enough powder to get good velocity. Then hope it does not "knuckle ball" very often.
Want better than 4-5" at 50 yards?
Have it rifled.

Dan

 

[satwel]

Follow through. Aim, fire, aim.
No weapon teaches the importance of proper follow through like a flintlock.