• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Polishing a horn

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mrbortlein

40 Cal.
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
187
Reaction score
0
What do I need to use to refinish my new horn?
13309320631.jpg
[url] http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/13309320657.jpg http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/13309320641.jpg[/url]
Thank you for your time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's up to you, whether you want to use traditional techniques only or modern materials.

If traditional, scrapers work well. Woodcrafters has cabinetmaker's scrapers that work well; one of them is concave. But you have to know how to raise a bur on a scraper for it to work.

Fine files can also get you close.

Then decide whether you want to use abrasives. One good traditional way is to get a can of pumice powder, used that on a horn wetted with oil with a hard cloth to do the rubbing. If you want more shine you can go to rottenstone. Also at Woodcrafters.

I use the scouring rush, also known as horsetail, a plant with silica in the stems.

You can use sandpaper of various grits backed with shaped wooden blocks etc or popsicle sticks down around the spout. The follow up with steel wool.
 
I started my first horn a couple years ago then quit on it and now I'm working on it again and about have it finished, it's definetly a learning experience. Here is a site I got some helpful info from.[url] http://www.nmroyalrangers.org/FCF/making_a_powder_horn.htm[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
To put a finish on mine I used bees wax. Rub a little on and polish up overlap bees wax when rubbing on and polish up with an old cotton shirt. This gives a nice shiny satiny suface. F.K.
 
I attended a horn making class recently. Our instructor was having us use up to 320 sand paper on the horn to get the minor scratches out. He was asked about final finish and he just buffs the horn with a cloth. Now if you want traditional, there was an original French and Indian War powder horn there. You could still see the scrape marks from the knife that shaped the horn...
Scott
 
41Aeronca said:
I attended a horn making class recently. Our instructor was having us use up to 320 sand paper on the horn to get the minor scratches out. He was asked about final finish and he just buffs the horn with a cloth. Now if you want traditional, there was an original French and Indian War powder horn there. You could still see the scrape marks from the knife that shaped the horn...
Scott


All the original horns that ive seen( about a dozen) were not polished, everyone of them were finished by scraping with either a scraper or a pocket knife, I use a stanley utility knife to scrap my horns to a finish, has just enough burr on it from the manufacturing process to work like a charm, its time consuming, but the finish achieved looks and feels like a period horn.
 
Ditto on scrapers. In a short while you will get the feel of it. Sand paper was probably hard to come by and a scraper would not be that hard to make. It doesn't leave scratches like sandpaper does. The utility blade is versatile in that changing the angle you can use it like a mini drawknife to shape areas around raised rings or square edges ( engrailing @ the throat). When scraping, keep blade 90% to surface, you will get a hand full of soft curly shavings, so much nicer than all that dust from sandpaper and no smell. Lower the angle and you can actually carve the horn to get depth and precise edges. Hope I didn't confuse you with my ramblings maybe I can post a pic or 2 to clarify things if needed.
 
the reason I said to use bees wax is also to seal it. Horn on its own breathes. The wax seals it from any moisture. F.K.
 
Agree with everybody, scraping works very good. I've used glass to scrape with as it does not blunt. Just wear a glove, cause breaking the glass will spoil your fun.

I always first scrape the horn, then depending on what is required to be done, start using sandpaper. I start with 120 grit after scraping, and work all the way to 1200 grit and have even in one case used 2000 grit paper. For the final shine, I use the palms of my hand with Schaftol stock oil, and rub it good and warm. Your hand palm is also abrasive.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top