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Need more patching eduction - please

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I believe the "seasoning" thing came from old BP shooting sources where they were using extant rifles with barrels very much like iron, not modern steel, and this was a carry-over in the 1950's an 1960's, where the guys who were part of the "resurgence" of muzzleloading were repeating what the guys in their grandfather's generation had been taught. I think it's possible that you might get some carbon depositing in a bore near the breech due to temp at ignition, but that wouldn't carry to the muzzle, or anywhere close. Depending on how you clean, you may be removing all of such a deposit.

LD
 
Just like many other tales, it's likely just an oft' repeated homily that doesn't hold up under close investigation.
 
It sounds to me the sight issue is making more of a problem than the patch and lube combo is. I think you will benefit more from a thicker front sight and a wider notch in the rear. Just my long term experience with muzzloaders and open sights. Your shorter rifle idea will make iron sights more difficult to use. Due to ageing eyes.
BJH
On two of my rifles I have moved the rear sight farther away from my eyes. It cleared the sight picture for me and helped a lot. My rifles have 42 in barrels so I had room. shorter barrels might present a problem.
 
Nobody yet mentioned to wash the sizing out of the new patch material.
It is a kind of starch that stiffens the fabric & may make it less likely to absorb lube.
O.
I use bed ticking for patch material. I do wash the cloth but I do not us softener . I have found that softener changes the way the patch works. I can't really explain but it does make a difference. Also the ticking has a different look from one side to the other. I try to put the same side next to the ball each time I load. So far it's worked for me.
 
There is a lot of valuable information above.
If you are serious about shooting a good tight group get Dutch Shoultz paper on shooting black powder guns.
If you want consistent grouping, remove all variables. Each shot must be exactly the same as the last.
If the first shot was from a clean barrel, so should be the second, and the third and so on.
Shooting four or five shots then wiping is a waste of powder, balls, and time, unless you are shooting 4' gongs at twenty five yards.
Your fired patch should look good enough to shoot again, if it is scorched, torn, shredded, something is wrong.
If your groups string up or down, something is wrong. If you are right handed and your groups shoot high to the left, your rifle is canted to the left, like wise if you are left handed and groups are high to the right, your rifle is canted to the right.
Muzzle loading is fun and recreational, but it has it's rules if you want to be good. It gets tougher with age.
If you are older you have to do some weight lifting to help hold your rifle in standing off hand shooting, in fact at any age you must be strong enough to hold your rifle steady.
All the best in the New Year!
Fred
 
I might have missed it but what range are your groups ? Use the smallest target spot you can see at that range (aim small miss small) keep targets with records (load, lube, patch thickness, ball size bench/off hand)
 
Hello FG, I plan to shoot competition when I think I'm good enough. What type of Weight lifting can I do to build up muscle to shoot of hand???
 
The rifle is supported by your skeletal structure. Do a lot of handling of the rifle, dry firing it at home, and you should have all the muscle tone (and muscle memory) necessary.

Richard/Grumpa
 
Hello FG, I plan to shoot competition when I think I'm good enough. What type of Weight lifting can I do to build up muscle to shoot of hand???
general strength training will benefit. Your useing shoulders, arms, legs, core strength, isometricly holding a position... so, though not specifically nessessary, strength training in general would be of great benefit. Practice though with the strength you have now and as it grows, is critical.
 
One other thing no one hit on yet, what kind of powder are you burning? Sharp crack with little smoke sounds like 777 or another sub. I would suggest using a real black powder in your flintlock. It will preform better and should help in the accuracy department as well.A good lube will greatly improve accuracy as well...
 
One other thing no one hit on yet, what kind of powder are you burning? Sharp crack with little smoke sounds like 777 or another sub. I would suggest using a real black powder in your flintlock. It will preform better and should help in the accuracy department as well.A good lube will greatly improve accuracy as well...
I went to a Rondy-voo once and my 50 cal. which is usaully very accurate was shooting all over the place. The range master asked what size shot I was using - it was that bad. I was shooting Pyrodex that I had received in a trade. He gave me some of his Goex black powder and my group dropped to 3 inch give 'er take pattern. I think imitation powder don't have near the quality of the real thing.
 
Well ?mark, I think that there was a reason that Pyrodex was included in the trade. Pyrodex does not age well. Once opened performance consistency can deteriorate especially in regions of high humidity.
 
One other thing no one hit on yet, what kind of powder are you burning? Sharp crack with little smoke sounds like 777 or another sub. I would suggest using a real black powder in your flintlock. It will preform better and should help in the accuracy department as well.A good lube will greatly improve accuracy as well...
I have always used GOEX and I still use 3F in my .50 long rifle. Loading 70 gr. gave the best grouping on that cold day. Please see above for targets at 50 yds. Benched. Patching is lubed with TOW mink oil tallow - modestly applied. Pillow ticking .018. That 70 gr load might have been better but my eyes just don't see the front sight like they used to. Wider sight might help.
 
Yes a wider front sight might help, you may try and use black electrical tape and wrap it around the front sight as a trial. Another thing I've read about, not done yet...but will try eventually is to move the rear sight towards the front sight about 3 or 4 inches...again do a trial using tape before making a new dovetail in the barrel. Hope this helps..
 
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