loose hammer

[stude 283]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tighten up fit of hammer on the tumbler square?Specifically its a lyman lock and the hammer rocks on the square,but the gun fires fine.I think it happened due to multiple dry fires since the nipple was peened over also.A little tin foil works for a while,but eventually loosens back up.I was going to weld a bead in square of hammer and file to fit,but figured I'd check to see if someone has a better(smarter?)idea.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Have you thought about buying a replacement hammer?

The other way is to remove the hammer from the tumbler, place it on a hard steel surface, and use a pin punch( and hammer) to push metal from the backside inward towards the square. Then use jeweler's files to refit the hammer to the tumbler's stem.

If the stem ( the square post on which the hammer is fitted) has been damaged, the cheapest "fix" is to simply buy a new tumbler. :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

If you try Pauls suggestion remember, the idea here is to move a very small amount of material to reduce the square hole size.

I would suggest using a 1/16 diameter pin punch.

Locate the tip of the pin punch so that no part of it is actually hanging over the edges of the hole and give a light tap with a hammer.
This should be hard enough to leave a easily seen mark but not so hard that it actually imbeds the punch into the metal.
Continue to make these marks all around the square overlapping them slightly.

It might be a good idea to repeat this on the outside surface of the hammers square where the screw head normally sits.

After completing this, try the hammer on the tumbler.

If your lucky, you may have to lightly tap the hammer onto the drive square until it seats against the round area at the bottom of the square.

If light tapping won't install the hammer then use a very fine toothed flat or square needle file but go careful with it. You only want to remove enough material so that the hammer is a light press fit.

 

[mazo kid]

Paul and Zonie have given great advise; however another option might be to put a small sliver of shim stock into the tumbler shank hole. If you can't find a piece thin enough, get a cheap set of feeler gauges and trim off a piece the next size up from the one that will fit easily in the shank hole. Tap into place and file off any excess.

 

[Steve Blancard]

I agree with mazo above. I've tried the peening trick, but it usually doesn't last since you are only moving a very small amount of metal. This small amount of displaced metal takes the brunt of the hammer blow, soon pushing it back in place. Then you are back where you started. Using a small piece of steel shim stock works better, especially if it covers the entire flat of the tumbler face.

 

[Sinner]

I think I'd go for a replacement hammer. They are about $15.

 

[gearheart]

+1 on the new hammer.

 

[Doc Arroyo]

Is the mortise in the hammer the problem, or are the shoulders on the tumbler rounded off? Ya might want to order both.

On restorations of antique pieces I have found a number repaired with a thin "shim" of soft lead. I have used it on a Mortimer double, and the repair works fine. Thin lead, squeeze on the hammer, file off the excess lead.

 

[gearheart]

Right on probably both parts are worn and should be replaced. When new parts are available that is the best way. Lots of clever ideas to get the gun shooting again but unless new parts can't be had because the gun is ancient of days, why not fix it right?

 

[stude 283]

$15 where?The lyman site is $37 and tc $35 for the hammer alone.I think they interchange,no? With tumbler probably better to replace whole lock,but rather not dump a lot into this old gun if a permanent repair is possible.peening hammer did tighten it up,but I wondered how long this repair will last.I guess shim stock will work which was one of my original thoughts on repair.
THANKS everyone for ideas,anyone else have another solution?