-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
linnen...pillow ticking??
- Thread starter jamie
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Guest
1)what makes linnen a linnen. is it 100% pure cotton? not cotten - linen is made from the flax plant - it's totally different material from cotten which comes from the cotton
2) is all pillow case material linnen? no - much modern pillow case material is man made i.e polyester or a mix of cotton and poly
3) what is ticking realy? real pillow or mattress ticking is a very tightly woven cotten - back in the old days of feather pillows/mattresses it was used to keep those little suckers inside and not poking you in the eye or other sensitive places (showing my age here)
4) i want to start cutting my own patches at the muzzle and use strips. cant i just use old pillow case material?? not necessarily - see #2
2) is all pillow case material linnen? no - much modern pillow case material is man made i.e polyester or a mix of cotton and poly
3) what is ticking realy? real pillow or mattress ticking is a very tightly woven cotten - back in the old days of feather pillows/mattresses it was used to keep those little suckers inside and not poking you in the eye or other sensitive places (showing my age here)
4) i want to start cutting my own patches at the muzzle and use strips. cant i just use old pillow case material?? not necessarily - see #2
Guest
Linen is woven from flax and is fairly coarse. pillow ticking is cotton,pillow cases are cotton and thinner than ticking, denim is cotton but watch for polyester she is a bad girl.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linen
Here's a link to learn as much as you'll want to know about linen.
I've also heard that the word linen can be used to mean any finely woven cloth, but I don't see that in the link.
Most frequently people are referring to the cloth made from flax.
Pillow ticking is made from cotton and I guess you could cut up a pillow but it's easier to buy the cloth in stores. I recently started using it for patching material and am very pleased. I wonder why I didn't make the switch sooner.
Old Salt
Here's a link to learn as much as you'll want to know about linen.
I've also heard that the word linen can be used to mean any finely woven cloth, but I don't see that in the link.
Most frequently people are referring to the cloth made from flax.
Pillow ticking is made from cotton and I guess you could cut up a pillow but it's easier to buy the cloth in stores. I recently started using it for patching material and am very pleased. I wonder why I didn't make the switch sooner.
Old Salt
DrTimboone
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2005
- Messages
- 390
- Reaction score
- 3
Go to Joanne's fabrics and buy a yard or two of unbleached cotton canvas drill. Take it home and wash and dry it. Cut your strips and soak them in Lehigh Valley Lube and let them dry. You may want to soak them twice, but probably not necessary.
For the range you can leave the canvas strips dry and just put the end in your mouth and wet it with spit before loading.
Pillow ticking tends to have no standard weight/thread count anymore so it is often not a tight enough weave to make the best patching material.
my $.02 worth.
For the range you can leave the canvas strips dry and just put the end in your mouth and wet it with spit before loading.
Pillow ticking tends to have no standard weight/thread count anymore so it is often not a tight enough weave to make the best patching material.
my $.02 worth.
"Bed linens" today are almost always cotton, or silk if you're rich.
"Linen" is a completely different fabric which today is more expensive than cotton. Back in the old days linen was cheaper than cotton, so it was used for things like sheet and pillow cases as well as shirts and shifts and all manner of other utilitarian items. This is how all manner of bed clothing became known as 'linens'.
Cotton pillow ticking makes a dandy patch material, or so I'm told (never used it myself). I use a coarse weave LINEN for patching (leftovers from making clothes) and my rifle has never shot better. Try some; you'll like it.
Regards,
Halfdan
"Linen" is a completely different fabric which today is more expensive than cotton. Back in the old days linen was cheaper than cotton, so it was used for things like sheet and pillow cases as well as shirts and shifts and all manner of other utilitarian items. This is how all manner of bed clothing became known as 'linens'.
Cotton pillow ticking makes a dandy patch material, or so I'm told (never used it myself). I use a coarse weave LINEN for patching (leftovers from making clothes) and my rifle has never shot better. Try some; you'll like it.
Regards,
Halfdan
jimeckersley
40 Cal.
DrTimBoone said:
To keep the cloth from coming apart, run a bead of waterproof Elmers glue around the edges and let it dry before washing.
I had heard from a fellow once that not only did he use pillow ticking for his patches, but that he had modified a hole saw to cut them. . . sort of like making biscuits. Not sure exactly what he did, but I assume he ground the teeth off and sharpened it. I like that idea.
DJL
DJL
linen was cheap because it didn't have to be imported from india. cotton fabrics were for the most part colourful luxury items before the industrial revolution kicked off.
linen is a very strong fibre. I get whats called "handkerchief linen", about 0.012" thick and cut out my own patches with scissors. (yes, i take the micrometer to the fabric store!)
linen is a very strong fibre. I get whats called "handkerchief linen", about 0.012" thick and cut out my own patches with scissors. (yes, i take the micrometer to the fabric store!)
Russianblood
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2005
- Messages
- 832
- Reaction score
- 2
I too took my micrometer to JoAnn's. :grin: I found the Cotton Drill 40 to be .016 and a very tight weave. It holds up where other patches have failed me, to include pillow ticking. And I cut mine into strips 1 1/2" wide then cut a square off prior to loading with my patch knife.
Guest
The US Navy tells you to change your linin , they mean your sheets and underwear. Old terms from when they were linin.
DrTimboone
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2005
- Messages
- 390
- Reaction score
- 3
Use .526 balls. Easier anyway and just as accurate. This year's buck never knew the difference!! :thumbsup:
SteveF said:
This happens to my pillow ticking material. Mics .018" before washing, .020" after a wash. I think the it gets "fluffed up" somehow. I've taken to using it without washing first. Many claim there's sizing in the material and it needs to be washed first but I really doubt it.
Ok I just mic'd the washed and stretched tick cloth and it did help to keep it at .016 - .017
So I think that if you put some thought into it you can stretch this stuff and let dry and end up with tick at .015 dry.
What do you all think?
So I think that if you put some thought into it you can stretch this stuff and let dry and end up with tick at .015 dry.
What do you all think?
wwfeatherston
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2005
- Messages
- 187
- Reaction score
- 2
I just made up about 1000 from calico- used as curtain backing. It measures 0.011 thou' thick
That lot cost about $6.
I cut it into squares then a couple of hundred at a time, soak them in a mix of hot oil and beeswax. When that cools down, I pull them apart with a pair of needle-nosed pliers and put them in old cap tins.
That lot cost about $6.
I cut it into squares then a couple of hundred at a time, soak them in a mix of hot oil and beeswax. When that cools down, I pull them apart with a pair of needle-nosed pliers and put them in old cap tins.
