My investarm 50 cal has a double click set trigger, any idea as to why? Can only pull front trigger after second click,sorta seems like a safety for the half cock. Another point about my 50cal is the screw between the triggers doesnt touch anything,my papers say its suppose to set the pull of front trigger after using set triggers, anybody else have this situation
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Investarm set trigger
- Thread starter uncmrkhd
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http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/267540/
About the best thing you can do is remove the two trigger guard screws, then the one in the trigger and pull it too observe it's funtion out of the gun.
Clean it well to remove all the factory packing grease, then a little oil.
Look in the mortice for any loose wood chips or burrs,,
It really helps to understand how it works when you can look at it.
About the best thing you can do is remove the two trigger guard screws, then the one in the trigger and pull it too observe it's funtion out of the gun.
Clean it well to remove all the factory packing grease, then a little oil.
Look in the mortice for any loose wood chips or burrs,,
It really helps to understand how it works when you can look at it.
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junkman_01
40 Cal.
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Sounds like your set triggers are way out of adjustment.
You're right, the trigger adjustment screw IS too short, by design, at least according to Chuck Dixon. Investarms/Lyman doesn't want the shooter to be able to make the trigger [pull] too light, a liability issue according to Chuck. As that screw is an odd pitch/thread, you can get a longer replacement one directly from Dixon or search McMaster-Carr's site for a replacement once you identify the pitch/thread. Hope this helps!
Yes, that's what that linked topic is all about.Maven said:
There's actually 3 different adjustments on most Double Set Double Throw triggers.
The following photo's are of CVA,T/C and L&R triggers but the Lyman's have the same set-up.
This one is of course the center screw for front trigger break adjustment;
But if adjustment of the internal leaf spring is too loose the trigger won't have enough "power" to do it's job properly. In this photo you can plainly see the notch on the rear cam that engages the front trigger cam;
That leaf needs to have enough tention to do it's job but not so much it's un-comfortable too set.
A third screw can be adjusted for "Travel" of the leaf spring. If the screw with the arrow is too low, the rear cam can ride too high when un-set and interfere with the locks trigger sear arm;
So taking the trigger out of the stock for proper adjustment is actually needed. Oil dry's out and get's gummy, a trigger bound with dryed oil won't funtion properly either. They generally don't need as much maintanance as the lock but it needs to be done periodicaly.
Grandpa Ron
45 Cal.
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Nice pictures and a good explanation of how set triggers work.
Unfortunately the Investarms model is unique. The front trigger has and odd hook shaped extention that alows a half-cock position of the set trigger??? :idunno: Who knows why it is there.
There is also an small over-travel screw that limits the throw of the set trigger spring to keep the set trigger arm from bearing against the lock sear after the shot.
Also as mention, the front trigger adjustment screw is too short.
It is a strange arrangment but it works when adjusted.
Unfortunately the Investarms model is unique. The front trigger has and odd hook shaped extention that alows a half-cock position of the set trigger??? :idunno: Who knows why it is there.
There is also an small over-travel screw that limits the throw of the set trigger spring to keep the set trigger arm from bearing against the lock sear after the shot.
Also as mention, the front trigger adjustment screw is too short.
It is a strange arrangment but it works when adjusted.
Never did figure out what that hump is for either, figured it's there so it's not a copy of something else and theres no paten infringement.
This one actually has a replaced screw;
The screw is a metric 2.5x8 and can be found at most hardware stores or old electonics stuff, for the second time here's a thread about the screw; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/267540/
This one actually has a replaced screw;
The screw is a metric 2.5x8 and can be found at most hardware stores or old electonics stuff, for the second time here's a thread about the screw; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/267540/
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IMO, the hook that is shown in the picture is a part of the front trigger that is intended to be a safety device.
If the rear trigger is set and something moves the front trigger just a hair the rear trigger might be released.
If the front trigger was not really "pulled" to the rear, that hook will be hanging down in a position that will "catch" the rear trigger stopping its full travel and preventing it from hitting the sear arm on the lock.
This might happen if the front triggers catch broke after setting the rear trigger.
It also could happen if a unwary finger accidentally just touched the front trigger without pulling it in the normal fashion.
If the front trigger is pulled intentionally that hook will swing up out of the way allowing the rear triggers blade to proceed upward to hit the sear arm.
If you don't have anything to do you can remove your "safety" set trigger and play with it like I just did.
It takes some fine trigger pulling to release the set rear trigger without moving the front trigger so that this safety does not swing up too far but it can be done.
If you do it, the front trigger will become very hard to pull without resetting the rear trigger first.
If the rear trigger is set and something moves the front trigger just a hair the rear trigger might be released.
If the front trigger was not really "pulled" to the rear, that hook will be hanging down in a position that will "catch" the rear trigger stopping its full travel and preventing it from hitting the sear arm on the lock.
This might happen if the front triggers catch broke after setting the rear trigger.
It also could happen if a unwary finger accidentally just touched the front trigger without pulling it in the normal fashion.
If the front trigger is pulled intentionally that hook will swing up out of the way allowing the rear triggers blade to proceed upward to hit the sear arm.
If you don't have anything to do you can remove your "safety" set trigger and play with it like I just did.
It takes some fine trigger pulling to release the set rear trigger without moving the front trigger so that this safety does not swing up too far but it can be done.
If you do it, the front trigger will become very hard to pull without resetting the rear trigger first.
:hmm:
That's about it,
It defenatly keeps the rear trigger stationary
when "un-set"
Can't think of a reason the rear would move far enough by itself to fire the gun, un-set but it is another "Saftey" feature.
Gotta love feeling Safe,
That's about it,
It defenatly keeps the rear trigger stationary
when "un-set"
Can't think of a reason the rear would move far enough by itself to fire the gun, un-set but it is another "Saftey" feature.
Gotta love feeling Safe,
And THAT is a huge improvement, it's been said here before, the Deer Slayer trigger is the best improvement for the money that can be made to T/C and Investarms rifles.charlie said:
I didn't say it kept the rear trigger stationary only when it is left unset.
It keeps the rear trigger from fully releasing when the rear trigger is set too unless the front trigger is pulled.
It keeps the rear trigger from fully releasing when the rear trigger is set too unless the front trigger is pulled.
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I'll chip in with another possibility. I picked up an Investarms 58 caliber with trigger problems and finally diagnosed it to the inletting for the trigger plate. It was dropping too deep into the rear of the mortise, resulting in exactly the symptoms described here.
I was able to fix it in short order by putting a small brass flathead wood screw in the bottom of the mortise back there and adjusting the height so the trigger plate didn't go too deep.
But after doing that I decided I just didn't like the factory trigger any more than I did on my Lymans. Pulled a Deerslayer out of a GPR and tried it. Worked so well on the 58 I had to order a replacement from Davis for the GPR. :rotf:
I was able to fix it in short order by putting a small brass flathead wood screw in the bottom of the mortise back there and adjusting the height so the trigger plate didn't go too deep.
But after doing that I decided I just didn't like the factory trigger any more than I did on my Lymans. Pulled a Deerslayer out of a GPR and tried it. Worked so well on the 58 I had to order a replacement from Davis for the GPR. :rotf:
