Flint size recommendations for L&R Queen Anne lock

[Boston123]

Hello,

I just purchased a Trade Gun from Sitting Fox, and it came with an L&R Queen Anne lock.

According to Track of the Wolf, the 3/4" x 7/8" flint will work with "most" L&R locks. Foolishly, I went ahead and purchased some before I held the gun in my hands.

The gun came in the mail the other day, and I noticed that the 3/4" "edge" of the flint does not reach across the entire face of the frizzen, which measures 7/8" across.

According to the TOTW Queen Anne lock page, they (TOTW) recommends a 7/8" x 1" flint. (English style Queen Anne fowling gun Flint Lock, by L&R - Track of the Wolf). I ordered a pack, but have no idea when it will get mailed.

Yet, other posts here on The Muzzleloading Forum (Flint size for L&R Queen Anne?), other sites selling the Queen Anne L&R lock (L&R Locks) and even the L&R company themselves (Queen Anne - Model# 2000, 2075) recommend 3/4" flints with the Queen Anne.

And on top of that, I can read here (what size flint) that it is actually a debate if the flint should reach across the face of the frizzen. Some say it should, others say it shouldn't.

My actual question: does it actually matter if the flint doesn't reach across the entire face of the frizzen? the 3/4" wide flints do make sparks, so the gun will theoretically function. Will I cause damage to the frizzen by using flints that aren't wide enough?

Thank you. This is my first flintlock, and as such don't want to cause damage via my own ignorance.

 

[Art Caputo]

I have a few rifles with Queen Anne locks. While I use mostly #7, 7/8x1” flints, I have used the #6, 3:4”x7/8” with comparable ignition, and no damage at all to the locks.

 

[Musketeer]

I like the idea of spanning the whole face of the frizzen, for both the most chance of sparks and even wear of the face. I don't think using the few narrower flints you have would hurt anything, but I'd order something wider next time (just my opinion). My Bess came from Pedersoli with a 1x1-1/8" flint, but after I used that one up I replaced it with a 1-1/8x1-1/4 from Track of the Wolf and have continued to use that size since, as it both covers the whole frizzen face and brings the edge of the flint closer to the frizzen (there was a lot of room between the two at half cock with the smaller factory flint).

edit: Just be sure if you use a wide flint that the corner of it doesn't hit the barrel as it's coming forward. Plenty of room in the case of my gun, but I've seen it happen to others.

 

[Spikebuck]

I have two L&R Qyeen Anne locks and use 7/8 x 1. I wouldn't worry about a 3/4" width vs 7/8 as long as it's long enough or can be adjusted out enough to properly strike the frizzen.

 

[Boston123]

I have two L&R Qyeen Anne locks and use 7/8 x 1. I wouldn't worry about a 3/4" width vs 7/8 as long as it's long enough or can be adjusted out enough to properly strike the frizzen.

I have seen this stated before, but am still not entirely sure what it means...

 

[Spikebuck]

I have seen this stated before, but am still not entirely sure what it means...

I assume you are asking about the "properly striking the flint" part. The flint should strike the frizzen at a downward angle approximately 2/3 of the way up. At least it a good starting point. If it hits straight on it's hard on flints. Too low and too much angle and you miss a lot of the frizzen and may even not have it open or could even smash the top of the cock jaw screw into the top of the frizzen. You can also flip your flint bezel up or down and it will strike differently.

 

[Musketeer]

If your flint is too short it can strike the frizzen too far down, not giving optimal sparks. If you have a flint that's a good width but too short, you can place a spacer (strip of leather, piece of wood, whatever) between the jaw screw and the back of the flint, pushing the flint forward in the jaws so it hits the frizzen earlier.

D'oh! Spike posted while I was writing.

 

[Boston123]

I assume you are asking about the "properly striking the flint" part. The flint should strike the frizzen at a downward angle approximately 2/3 of the way up. At least it a good starting point. If it hits straight on it's hard on flints. Too low and too much angle and you miss a lot of the frizzen and may even not have it open or could even smash the top of the cock jaw screw into the top of the frizzen. You can also flip your flint bezel up or down and it will strike differently.

Below is a picture of a 7/8" wide by 1" long wooden blank I carved to approximate a flint of the same size, and I am holding it at the "point of impact" after pulling the trigger. The mark on the frizzen below the wooden blank is from a 3/4" wide x 7/8" long flint, which looks to be too short since it hits about 50% up from the bottom.

Any suggestions?

 

[Spikebuck]

Three things you could do assuming a real flint is striking too low. 1. As musketeer said, move it forward in the jaws with a leather piece behind it. 2 flip the flint. 3. Place a piece of leather under the flint to raise it up ( in addition to your wrap leather.)

 

[Musketeer]

Yes, I didn't think to mention that, but flipping from bevel up to bevel down can make a good bit of difference. Since there's some confusion on this terminology, by "bevel up" I mean the way you have the wood flint mounted in that picture, with the bevel on the top. Flipping it over will allow it to strike higher up.

 

[toot]

all rely good advice!