cannon blanks

[Titus]

How do you make 'n blank ML cannon charge?

 

[JiminTexas]

Load it up and don't use a ball or shot canister, just put in a wad.

 

[Titus]

That sounds easy enough. :haha: Thanks. :thumbsup:

 

[50cal.cliff]

Just don't be standin in front of that wad when you touch her off! Or you'll need a larger beard! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

[Scota4570]

You can use wonder bread for the wad. It is sticky enough to let pressure build a little thus more noise.

 

[John Taylor]

we just stuffed a bunch of grass down the barrel ( not the kind you smoke ). No burning paper to chase. If the grass is a green and damp it works better. No mess to clean up if you are shooting over grass.

 

[J.D.]

I was taught to use a double layer of aluminum foil moulded over a form a little smaller than the bore.

Measure your charge, place in the foil cartridge, and close the open end.

The whole cartridge is loaded into the bore and rammed to the breech. A pick is inserted in the touch hole to prick the foil, and a primer made of scotch tape loaded with priming powder inserted into the touch hole with a opened tab exposed to accept the fire from the match.

If I remember correctly, the recommended powder charge for blank loads is 1 oz of powder for every inch of bore diameter. However, you have to remember that my old memory may not remember correctly. :rotf:

J.D.

 

Load it up and don't use a ball or shot canister, just put in a wad.

I suggest that he gets a copy of "The More Complete Cannoneer".

And you don't want to use wads at any National Park or in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. Wads are not allowed for blanks and are dangerous.

The use of bread leaves a crusty residue. Green grass can cause dangerously high pressures in some pieces.

The recommended construction for a blank load is powder contained in aluminum foil. For moisture protection, some suggest the powder be contained in saram wrap or a baggie. I prefer wax paper myself, as plastic can cause a misfire by snuffing out the ignition spark.

CP

 

From the Commonwealth of Massachusetts Safety Regulations, 527 CMR Board of Fire Prevention Regulations

22.06: Magazines and Powder

(5) All charges shall be made up of commercially manufactured black powder only, and such charges prepared for the demonstration firing shall be made of completely combustible material or a non?combustible material such as foil. The completely combustible charge shall be encased in aluminum foil or other spark?proof material which shall be removed at the muzzle of the cannon in the case of display firing. No wadding of any kind is permitted in blank firing.

(6) The amount of black powder used in each charge shall be such as to not present an undue hazard to persons, property, or the piece itself.
(a) In no case shall any charge for cannons exceed four ounces of power per inch of bore diameter.
(b) Powder charges for mortars shall not exceed four ounces per inch of chamber diameter.

CP
Commonwealth of Massachusetts Certified Cannoneer

 

[Titus]

Thanks Claypipe. I will follow your advice and get the book. :bow: :thumbsup:

 

[J.D.]

CP
Commonwealth of Massachusetts Certified Cannoneer

I assume that your ceritfication comes from an reenactment organization, as opposed from the State of Mass?

I attended a ML cannon safety certification program hosted by the former Forces of Wolf and Montcalm, an F&I umberella organization, since re-named to reflect something or other. As a part of that reorganization, they no longer accept individual memberships, so that leaves me out.

While these things are a real blast, literally and figuratively, they are also as dangerous, if not more so, as any firearm ever made. And since firing ML artillery poses it's own set of dangers, and the proper procedures to avoid those dangers are specific to ML artillery, I would recommend that anyone interested in ML artillery attend one of these safety certification classes. Fortunately, the former "Forces" does not restrict the safety training to members, but opens the certification program to anyone interested in ML artillery.
J.D.

 

[mike alexandre]

we make up our cartridges from two foil packages, at the rear is black powder - the front one is flour - self raising of course and have never had any problems.

 

No, its issued by the Department of Public Safety of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. A written test is taken at the Fire Academy. But, before one can take said test, the application has to be signed by another certified cannoneer with five years of certification. Our crew had to do a drill and firing for the Master Gunner of a local CW artillery group. I specialize in medieval artillery, but I, now, have a standing invitation to crew a federal unit's field piece. Our crew made that much of an impression with the CW guys.

CP
Certified Cannoneer

 

[J.D.]

No, its issued by the Department of Public Safety of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. A written test is taken at the Fire Academy. But, before one can take said test, the application has to be signed by another certified cannoneer with five years of certification. Our crew had to do a drill and firing for the Master Gunner of a local CW artillery group.
CP
Certified Cannoneer

Having a state entity controling who can and cannot become certified is frightening, at least to my mind.

It sounds as if the state wants to restrict the certification program, and by association, who owns a ML cannon.

Is there a penalty for owning, or firing a ML cannon without having the ceritification?

Thanks,
J.D.

 

[ricklandes]

At the last rendevous I was at I was told that in some cannon events alum. foil is being considered as a "projectile". I have never found much of a piece remaining, but do not use it any more. Discresion being the better part of valor and all.... I load a measured charge, a small piece of newsprint to keep the powder separated and then double the powder amount by volume of cornmeal as a wad. I find this works well and has no fire hazzard or litter problem.

I agree with much of the info shared on proper load procedures. I always wear thick leather Gauntlet type forging/welding gloves. I also like to keep a hand full of extra ear plugs in my powder box too.

 

[J.D.]

At the last rendevous I was at I was told that in some cannon events alum. foil is being considered as a "projectile". I have never found much of a piece remaining, but do not use it any more. Discresion being the better part of valor and all.... I load a measured charge, a small piece of newsprint to keep the powder separated and then double the powder amount by volume of cornmeal as a wad. I find this works well and has no fire hazzard or litter problem.

I fail to see where shredded, or more likely disentegrated aluminum from a properly folded aluminum cartridge could become a projectile.
IMHO, some test would be in order to prove or disprove that theory.

Is the person who reported the projectile theory knowledgeable enough to know what he is talking about, or is he merely reporting something he heard from someone who may or may not know what he is talking about. In other words, is your source credible?

Wrapping charges in paper can present it's own problems. A burning ember remaining in the breech, for example. Or a spark from a primer landing in an open powder box, or on the charge as it is being transported to the gun could spell disaster.


The reason the Forces got away from paper tape for making primers was that embers on fragments of paper tape were being ejected from the vent on firing. Some of those embers were landing near, on, or in powder boxes placed the requisite distance behind the guns.

The possiblity exists that firing into a head wind while using charges wrapped in paper could possibly result in a burning ember being blown back onto a powder box as it is opened to retrieve a charge.

I'm certailnly no expert, but IMHO, there are many reasons to avoid paper in making cartridges or primers, and few, if any reasons to avoid aluminum foil and plastic tape.

I prefer to err on the side of information presented by people who obviously know what they are talking about until new information is validated by experience or testing.
J.D.

 

Having a state entity controling who can and cannot become certified is frightening, at least to my mind.

It sounds as if the state wants to restrict the certification program, and by association, who owns a ML cannon.

Is there a penalty for owning, or firing a ML cannon without having the ceritification?

Thanks,
J.D.

I agree it does lend itself to a good ole boy system, not unlike what many of us encountered trying to obtain Federal lincenses for ham radioo back in the 1970's. However the frequencies did not have the clutter that they have today. Its a double edge standard that cuts both ways.

In five years time, I hope to establish a school of artillery here.

While there is no penalty or permit needed to own a muzzleloading cannon, there are penalties for discharging one without a permit or improperly.

CP

 

At the last rendevous I was at I was told that in some cannon events alum. foil is being considered as a "projectile". I have never found much of a piece remaining, but do not use it any more. Discresion being the better part of valor and all.... I load a measured charge, a small piece of newsprint to keep the powder separated and then double the powder amount by volume of cornmeal as a wad. I find this works well and has no fire hazzard or litter problem.

I agree with much of the info shared on proper load procedures. I always wear thick leather Gauntlet type forging/welding gloves. I also like to keep a hand full of extra ear plugs in my powder box too.

I cringe for several reasons at the thought of cornmeal for wadding. Increased pressures, acting as birdshot projectile and fouling the bore.

Do you find that the use of cornmeal leaves a crusty residue on the wall of your bore?

Ear plugs are good for sound, but not the concussion of a cannon discharge. Though not period, muff type ear protection is far superior to ear plugs.

CP

 

I fail to see where shredded, or more likely disentegrated aluminum from a properly folded aluminum cartridge could become a projectile.
IMHO, some test would be in order to prove or disprove that theory.

Is the person who reported the projectile theory knowledgeable enough to know what he is talking about, or is he merely reporting something he heard from someone who may or may not know what he is talking about. In other words, is your source credible?

If there was a projectile from a foil wraped charge, then, I suspect that the charge was improperly wrapped. I use a wooden form, one end is rounded, the other is squared off. The rounded end of the foil packet is twisted closed and nipped close to the packet. The other end is folded over twice. The rounded end is inserted into the bore first. Upon discharge, the folded end blows open and is disintergrated in the discharge blast. Any foil remains are removed upon the next worming of the breech.

Wrapping charges in paper can present it's own problems. A burning ember remaining in the breech, for example. Or a spark from a primer landing in an open powder box, or on the charge as it is being transported to the gun could spell disaster.

Hence the reason for a self closing magazine and a proper leather or wooden passbox. Never like the use of canvas satchels.

I'm certailnly no expert, but IMHO, there are many reasons to avoid paper in making cartridges or primers, and few, if any reasons to avoid aluminum foil and plastic tape.

I prefer to err on the side of information presented by people who obviously know what they are talking about until new information is validated by experience or testing.
J.D.

I prefer to use wax paper, but this is wrapped in foil. The ends of the wax paper tube are folded. I use plastic straws and cellophane tape for the making of quills. But, I will not use plastic baggies for making a charge. Too likely to foul the vent or extiguish the ignition spark. That's just me.

CP

 

[J.D.]

I was taught to make cartridges and quills as you mention, with the exeption of the wax paper inside the foil.

Self closing powder boxes are a must, however, the possibility still exists that an ember can find its way into the box as it is opened to retrieve a cartridge. An ember may, or may not result of firing the gun the box is associated with, but possibly a nearby gun, or some other source.

The use of wads, or another container of cornmeal or flour to enhance the effect of firing was also addressed. It is not recommended. There should NOT be anything loaded on top of the blank powder charge, for the reasons you mentioned.

It always pays to err on the side of safety.