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1858 Remmy-mainspring tension

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CaptainKirk

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I noticed my Remington repro has a tension screw on the inner frame rail. Normally this is screwed all the way in for max tension, but my Remmy takes more thumb pressure than I find comfortable, especially when it's cold. Anyone here have much experience with backing this out, and how far can you go before experiencing misfires? Thanks.
(You never know if you never ask, right?) :idunno:
 
NOTE TO SELF:
It has no effect at all. All it does is lock the spring in place. Idiot! :youcrazy:
 
Maybe it needs turning more than you think?
I messed with mine & it needed several whole turns before I felt any change at all.

I've heard elsewhere that if you lighten it too much the hammer will blow back from the cap so proceed with caution though.
 
That screw does indeed adjust tension on the spring, if backed out you should notice a difference. I have seen at least one in which the spring was too long and was bottoming out on the hammer ahead of the roller which caused very hard cocking. If that is the case it is easy to see with grips removed and if you are looking for it.
 
If the backing the screw out doesn't help there is always this...












ironmind_handgrippers7.jpg


:wink:
 
It's the nature of capnball that you can never get a hammer pull as light as a centerfire and still have a reliable revolver but they don't need to be as heavy as they often come out of the box. On Remingtons I often have to shorten that tension screw because when backed out to where I like it the screw protrudes from the front strap an eighth of an inch or more. Try just removing it completley, you should find a great deal of difference. On Colts I remove the mainspring and place a thick leather washer under the spring before re-tightening the screw. That is also a common modification on Colt single action centerfires.
 
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