Aspiring marksman.

Ok so here are some up dates for those of you interested. I made up a supply of MAP. Made myself some dry patches. I also installed a taller rear sight and made a bone front sight. Anyways beside my flyer for fouling up the barrel. I got 3 shots touching twice in a row. I shot 5 shots then ran a MAP patch through it followed by a dry patch. Got her sighted in close enough at 60 to move to 25 off hand. Made one more adjustment shot 4 more times then rattled off 8 more shots at 50 off hand. I'm loving these new sights. I did notice a fouling ring start happening so problem not solved but it was alot less of a buildup and one stroke of wire brush brought it right out. I believe I will stick with thus new program.
Pic 1) 2 3shot groups one warm up shot.
Pic 2) 6 shots 25 yards adjustment after first 2
Pic 3) 8 shots offhand at 50 yards

Pretty decent results.
Now it's time to do some Dutch's loading workups.
I am going to send to you a copy of Dutch's book.
Please heed the warning I am going to give you!
Once you get started down the black powder rabbit hole, you will never emerge. I will become a passion, not just a hobby.
Look for my private conversation.

Has Dutch copy righted his book? I believe it's a source of income for him so he can wine and dine nurses weekly?

Best bet, Kyle, is to go to Dutch Schoultz's web site, blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com and order his system directly from the site. There is more information on the web site than in his collection of notes and he loves to help new shooters.

azmntman said:

Has Dutch copy righted his book? I believe it's a source of income for him so he can wine and dine nurses weekly?

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yes he has. and yes it is part of his inccome. i paypal the registration fee to him and let him add the new reader to his list and then he sends his book. its a wonderful gift to give to new shooters.

....or old shooters (like me). I still refer to it often. I dont use papal myself, I sent him a check and I had the "system" before he could have even received it!

That's fine, but there is alcohol and peroxide also in that formula, and I've had folks get very miffed when they've heard me give that formula as "moose milk" and tell me that it's "MAP", and the original "moose milk" has to be simply a water soluble oil either Old NAPA or Ballistol, and water..., "It goes back to 20XX" is usually the claim. Well, I was taught that what folks call MAP was "moose milk" in 1995.

LD

Funny, just this past weekend I was told of a families “Moose Milk” recipe being Machinists Cutting Oil, Murphy Oil Soap and Water all in equal portions. This rather large family shoots A LOT and has for over 30 years. This is their patch lube (wet patch) and cleaning solution. Zero swabbing all day over many shots taken throughout the event. They are very loyal to their first muzzle guns given to them (some since the 70’s and 20-30,000 balls fired) and they all look new, with very clean bores. I observed them shoot with extreme accuracy at targets to 100 yards and winning like crazy.
Has a simple mind like me thinking...
Walk

We had people selling moose milk lube in 1979. It was called that because it turned white when mixed up. Had nothing to do with the ingredients.

There is no real cause to get worked up about what is the true "Moose Milk" formula. Whether it is the mix used for the cutting oil lubrication used in machine operations that turns a milky color when mixed with water or any of a great number of sources. What we are trying to achieve is a good lubricant for a patch lube that is easy to apply, affordable and effective. What makes this even close to debatable is that most of these formulas seem to work (except for the latest NAPA water soluble oil formula).

Its sort of like if Grandma served hotcakes with jam, you can't have pancakes with syrup.

Hey all I know is that MAP is doing wonders on cleaning my barrel so far. And going off of the book Grizz44mag just got me I few good stabbing with some saturated patches then wipe till she is clean apply wd40 and I ought to be well on my way to getting rid of this crud ring

Most of us like to go one step further than Dutch recommends. We use the WD40 or rubbing alcohol to remove water from the bore. WD40 is not as good rust inhibitor as Barricade, I wipe with Barricade and store the gun muzzle down so any lubricant flows away from the breech.

Your doing pretty good.

Kyle smith said:

Hey all I know is that MAP is doing wonders on cleaning my barrel so far. And going off of the book Grizz44mag just got me I few good stabbing with some saturated patches then wipe till she is clean apply wd40 and I ought to be well on my way to getting rid of this crud ring

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I don’t do the MAP, but a variation of it, I substitute the perxode for ammonia. I use it as a cleaner and as a patch lube as well. Also, the WD-40 does work well as a water repellent. I scrub my barrel with it religiously after a good cleaning. I then protect the bore with fluid film for long term. Just my 2 cents.. take it for what it’s worth sir!

Another valuable lesson learned yeaterday. Always and I mean always get something to eat before a shooting session. I could not keep the front sight on a darn barn yesterday morning let alone a 2 inch bullseye.

Kyle smith said:

Another valuable lesson learned yeaterday. Always and I mean always get something to eat before a shooting session. I could not keep the front sight on a darn barn yesterday morning let alone a 2 inch bullseye.

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A good point! Also stay away from caffeine before a line match. Now, if I’m plinking I’ll have a Mountain Dew sitting right there with me, but if it’s a scored match... I stay away from it prior to.

WD40 has water in it. That’s what makes it a penetrating oil. I’m 52 and I was always told never to use WD40 as a rust prevention oil by my father (a professional bulls-eye shooter in the military) and by others.

I have always used Wonder Lube or one of its several variations both to lube patches and to treat the bore after cleaning. What exactly is the problem with that product? Or is it that it’s just not “homemade”?

I have never noticed a difference in power or accuracy with lubed patches sitting on top of powder for a few days...it makes sense that the patch could contaminate a bit of powder it’s touching, just never have seen evidence of it and for a while I would leave guns loaded for weeks at a time and then fire a round for accuracy (remember that bulls-eye upbringing...it’s a curse.)

Interested in this moose milk concoction. Just to be clear, you are soaking patches in that, letting them dry, and then shooting with them? And also using it on wet patches to clean?

"WD40 has water in it. That’s what makes it a penetrating oil. I’m 52 and I was always told never to use WD40 as a rust prevention oil by my father (a professional bulls-eye shooter in the military) and by others."

If WD40 was developed as a water displacement, how does it contain water? WD stands for water displacement and 40 stands for the 40th try.

It is water based and hydroscopic.

The water base is what gives it its ability to penetrate. The water penetrates and carries the oils with it.

I never use WD40 on a firearm... PERIOD.

brazosland said:

WD40 has water in it. That’s what makes it a penetrating oil. I’m 52 and I was always told never to use WD40 as a rust prevention oil by my father (a professional bulls-eye shooter in the military) and by others.

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Depends on what formula of WD you use. They do make a rust remover/inhibitor formula. That's the one I buy at TSC.