Wedge plate how to?

[t1952ap]

I could use some advice on how to locate wedge plates on a Hawken stock. Thanks in advance!

 

[MikeChapin]

If you are talking about the escutcheon plates, I install the wedges placing the plates around the wedges. I scribe around them, pull everything apart and inlet the plates.

If you are talking about the wedges themselves, I treat them about the same as a pinned barrel. I measure and drill a small hole at one end of the slot and do the same at the other end. I then carve out the stock between the holes. I do the same on both sides of the stock and relieve the slot until the wedge goes through the slots and the underlug.

 

[t1952ap]

Thanks for the advice and your time. Sounds pretty straight forward. I'm working on my first stock. Just thought I'd ask a few questions in advance.

 

[Frank Savage]

I´ll renewe this topic a bit with other how-to question:

Are wedge key plates supposed to support the key, or do they just prevent splintering around wedge keys during use? ¨
In other words, does the key press upwards just against the wood of forestock (so the plate just protects the wedge key slot entry), or does the plate transfer some of the force that secures the barrel in the stock?

I can find logical reasons for both setups, but what´s considered as correct?
Thanks

 

[hoochiepapa]

Peter Alexander has a novel way to keep from losing those keys, too. "Gunsmith of Greville County".

 

[Vaino]

To begin w/ installing the keys a reminder that only the wood above the key is critical and forces the key down on the bbl lug. I drill a series of undersized holes that are below the upper surface of the slot in it's final position and then burn the webs out or the webs can be cut out. The bottom of the slot is filed smooth and is not important after that seeing it should not bear on the key. When both sides of the stock have been done, the bbl is clamped in the stock and the upper slot surfaces on both sides are filed until a nice fit going through the lug is achieved. I make them so it's a little hard to push them w/ a wood block. The escutcheons are put on the keys {the slots are slightly oversize}, lined up and the 2 screws are installed and tightened and an Exacto knife is used to outline the oval. After the keys are inletted, the escutcheon that receives the key has the backside of the slot chamfered so the key enters smoothly. If slotted keys are used, a pin can be used either in the angled surface of the bbl inlet or behind {the pin is inletted w/ a tiny gouge} the entering escutcheon. Hope this helps and good luck.....Fred

 

[Bill Hall]

Here's another way of looking at it. If only the escutcheons held the keys in place, they wouldn't have much strength. Even if the key/escutcheon fit were skin tight, I think the slot would eventually wobble out and you'd end up with a shakey barrel. The wood slot seems to be less affected by friction, so ya, the wood should do the majority, if not all, of the actual holding. Think about the wood at the top of the slot pressuring the key against the bottom of the lug. Bill

 

[shovelhead]

Frank- there are original rifles without any plates, just the wedges; so,to answer your question- I think they are mostly decorative. I don't think they are used to prevent the stock from splitting in the area.

 

[Capt. Fred]

One other tip if you use the slotted keys and retainer pins. If you take the barrel out, push the key back into the stock. Don't leave it hanging out there in the breeze. I saw a stock that was stood up on its butt fall over and the key was hanging out, it hit something on the way down and split the edge of the stock.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Frank- there are original rifles without any plates, just the wedges; so,to answer your question- I think they are mostly decorative. I don't think they are used to prevent the stock from splitting in the area.

The earlier keyed guns did in fact have no plates. I do think they caught on because of decorative style but also because that area saw all manner of removal of the keys and got quite worn. Looks and protection not from splitting as much as buggering up the area.

 

[Bill Hall]

Frank- there are original rifles without any plates, just the wedges; so,to answer your question- I think they are mostly decorative. I don't think they are used to prevent the stock from splitting in the area.

The earlier keyed guns did in fact have no plates. I do think they caught on because of decorative style but also because that area saw all manner of removal of the keys and got quite worn. Looks and protection not from splitting as much as buggering up the area.

My thoughts exactly. If everone else is like me, I tend to seat the key head against the plate, and then give it a few extra taps to make sure it's all the way in. When removing the key, I tend to tap the end until it is flush with the plate. Doing these methods repeatedly would cause some ulgy dents in the wood, if it were not for the plates. And they do add some nice decoration to the gun. Fancy and functional. Bill