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Triple 7 ignition problems

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I use to shoot tournaments .22 target rifles. I used a Anshutz 1710 with a 24 power scope. The diameter of the spread on some shooters on a bad day was 1/2 " the targets were at 50 yards.If they used iron sights I would lay odds that their spread would be bigger than yours. You should be well satisfied with your accuracy!
Lol I'm never satisfied with my accuracy.
 
Not entirely sure what you're suggesting? A wet patch between each shot?

I'm suggesting NO patch between shots. Just load and shoot. With 777 or pyrodex the loading of the next shot will do all the wiping you need and anything loosened will fall harmlessly on top of the charge to be blown out when you shoot.
 
Try some RWS or Schuetzen caps and see if that helps. It might be as simple as that, so I'd try it before messing with the nipple or flash channel in any way.
 
The cup does cover the nipple when it's fired, but how would I tell if that's adjusted correctly?
Well, once ya get past all of the other advice about changing powders, and projectile, and cleaning/wiping methods, using a different firearm, and accurate groups instead of miss-fires(?) Let me know.
They say that rifle was not meant to be modified to use musket caps. (right?) If it was, it would be marketed as such and Traditions would sell the parts to do so.
There's probably an actual "disclaimer" about modifications,,
But the Lawyers haven't seen nor care about shortages.
It's simple enough to do for a shade tree smith with basic tools, but you'll need to find a dremel, with a small grinding stone and understand imprinting.
I learned the technique from a past member Paul V,, he's not current, the Paul V that shared so much with us has long since past and his posts have been lost.
 
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Paul v's notes are on the forum. Many of the how to's he wrote i have seen. They were part of the reference files. Can i put my fingers on them immediately? No but i am pretty sure they are somewhere as angie put them in various places as members requested.
 
Black powder substitutes are just that, black powder substitutes. All of them are designed to defeat the delivery companies class C explosive shipping/storage requirement. In order to do that you have to tame the mix a little, and everything that is done to tame the mix interferes with the action of true black powder. I know it is a stretch, but if I was you I would look into making my own BP. None of the separate components are regulated, since they have so many other commercial uses, and until they are properly mixed they are not particularly explosive. The fireworks and pyrotechnic nuts are at the forefront on powder making, they use so much of it that almost all of these guys make their own. The how to information is readily available, the only complicated component is a small ball mill remotely operated, and set up in such a fashion as to completely prevent damage from a rare milling explosion. For this reason, I would limit the green charge to a pound or two, and do everything possible to make the ball milling operation a safe one. Restrictions on real black powder will only increase from here on out I think. It takes some practice and science to make powder that is the full equal of commercial black powder, but it is now being done safely in small batches.
 
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i'm surprised the re-enactment caps are working that well. When you find some #11 caps, change the nipple and use those.
 
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@Osborne Russell,

The CCI Musket caps have been known for some time to unreliable except for use with blank black powder charges which are easy to ignite. The substitute powders, such as Triple 7 or Pyrodex are notoriously difficult to ignite. You won't find many of us on the forum recommending CCI caps.

Caps are beginning to become available in local sporting goods stores. Its probably time to change back to the #11 nipple. You will be have the best reliability using the magnum caps. Look for the CCI magnum caps or RWR 1075 Plus. Also get one of the nipple designed for use with the substitute powders. These are the Hot Shot, Spitfire, or Red Hot brands.

Most people will want to use supplies that are available locally and not order in quantities sufficient to justify paying Haz-Mat fees. In some localities ordering is the only way to get quality supplies. Many of us associate with other traditional muzzle loading firearms shooters and we combine resources and needs to purchase our Hazardous Material supplies. Note: The Haz-Mat designation isn't really hazardous if the supplies are properly handled. If you are shooting 20 times a week, then that's 1,000 shots a year or 1,000 caps and 11 pounds of powder. If your are shooting less than 100 shots a year, then you will need to search for the supplies you need and probably be limited to using one of the black powder substitutes. Enjoy this hobby to meet your needs, not according to our practices.
 
CCI has long been the last choice for primers, and I doubt their percussion caps fare much better. Their shotgun primers have always suffered from hard cups that will misfire occasionally an an unmentionable that does not have a very healthy hammer strike. Federal, Winchester, or Remington were unanimously preferred in my high power days shooting unmentionables. I used CCI # 11 in my competition black powder days without any real complaints, but only because those were the caps the club would order in bulk and get.
 
Lots of good advice, and yet we all do different things that work for us. I haven't fired a cap before loading for years, and I mainly use 777 because of the availability. Been saving my black for my flintlock. I did change to a stainless steel nipple, measured the hole, and increased it a couple of wire bit sizes. I only load up to 60 grains, but 777 is hotter so I imagine I'm equivalent to 75 grains black. I know I don't shoot nothing like those that do 20 a week, 20 a month is more than I do. Actually since my last shoulder operation, I haven't been out for three months. I know that nipples wear to a bigger size, I guess I don't do enough to ever wear one out. They aren't expensive, not for my amount of shooting, And I do have extras on hand. About all I can find are CCI caps, but they work fine. Actually in my 30 years doing these things, I always thought the cap was the last thing to blame and it was more aptly me that caused the problem. The only time I ever had trouble with misfires, was caused by leaving it loaded and the patch lube Infiltrated the powder. I wouldn't be surprised if I shot as much as some do, I would have had more problems arise. I do appreciate reading about the experience that others have had.
Thanks for reading,
squint
 
We use T7 in the Hunter Safety classes that I teach. I am the muzzleloading guy for our group. A lot of good information here, but one tip that helps a lot is that once you have poured the powder into the barrel, you should slap the side of the stock opposite the lock with authority. This helps drive powder into the flash channel. It helps a lot.
 
A majority of all misfires upon loading the first shot on a clean rifle is a dirty nipple, drum or bolster regardless of powder used. One or all of them is full of oil and uncleaned crud. I rarely shoot percussion anymore but when I do I pull the nipple and clean it and blast everything out with a can of brake cleaner (using the straw that comes with the can) prior to shooting. Let it evaporate and then put in a little powder and fire off a blank. If everything is full of oil and crud, firing off a few caps won’t clear a fouled up mess of oil and crud. If everything is clean you shouldn’t need a musket cap period.
 
Just my 2 cents, and it may have to do with the humidity where I live, but if I open a can of T7 or T7 unmentionable thingys, I use them within a few months. Seems like the minute the can is open, it starts to degrade. I have had failures to fire, and VERY inconsistent accuracy from cans opened several months prior. It took me a few of these experiences to figure it out.

I have not had that problem with real black powder, even storing it in the same place as all my powder.
 

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