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the point of flux?

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TrevorAaron

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I have heard of people using flux (deer fat) or (crisco) they mix in with the lead when its hot. I have not tried it yet so im wondering the point of using flux?

thanks aaron
 
Flux is stirred into the molten lead to aid in mixing the alloys. It also helps remove impurities and float them to the top where they can be skimmed out.

HD
 
Flux, whether commercial products, or beeswax, or grease, or pieces of wood, for that matter, simply help draw the contaminants up to the surface of the molten lead. The Flux burns off, leaving a bit of carbon on the surface of the molten lead, along with the "dross". I don't know how well it might work to help mix alloys of lead, as those metals tend to mix together with the lead when the temperature is hot enough to melt those other metals( chiefly, Tin and Antimony).

Google these metals to find their melting temperatures, and it will become obvious why they are used to make alloy lead projectiles.

Alloys will produce "frosted" bullets and balls, because of the presence of these other metals. Pure lead does not produce frosted balls, or bullets, no matter the temperature. :thumbsup:
 
Why Flux?
Paul hit on it, a fluxing agent (whatever of the many) burns off on the surface leaving carbon. The Carbon picks up oxides such as imputities and surface oxides of the lead and remains floating on the surface. These impurities attached to the carbon can then be skimmed or "drossed" off the surface.

It's one of them science things, what's got to do with the molecule/partical chain. It ain't Einstein, but it works. :wink:

Heck, a little fine sawdust will work.
 
Look up the term "placebo effect", and that will tell you why people dump all that junk into their lead.

Aaron, try casting both ways, with, and without fluxing, and tell us if you find any difference. You can be like the guy who finally said out loud that barrel seasoning is a bunch of hooey. :thumbsup: Bill
 
I will agree that if you cast pure lead- pure when it goes into a CLEAN pot-- you don't gain anything from using flux of any kind. However, if your pot is dirty, or your lead is dirty, or both, flux will draw up the junk so you can skim it off the surface.

When I was a kid, my dad had us dig in the backstops of the range to recover all kinds of lead bullets. Some were not even LEAD, but zinc cores in jackets. Some of the jackets were made of steel, not copper. And, of course, they were buried in dirt and lead debris, and carried a lot of that stuff twisted in the scraps of lead we recovered. The only way to separate the lead from the junk and dirt, was to melt the mess in the pot, and skim off the garbage. Using flux then will pull up the suspended small dirt particles to combine with the Carbon, so it floats on the top.

Because lead is so much heavier than any flux you might try to use, including saw dust, you simply cannot PUSH the flux down into molten lead. What you can do is use a long handled spoon( they get very hot very quickly, so wear gloves!) To stir the molten lead, so that the suspended particles can work to the surface and combine with the carbon. Don't expect too much from flux, but don't be foolish enough to think it doesn't help in all circumstances where lead is being melted.

I can tell you that after all the years I spent melting scrap lead with my father, doing the heavy labor, that its a JOY to cast PURE LEAD purchased from a source, or obtained from some worksite. You could tell how Tough those alloy bullets were when working the lubrisizer. Back then, we didn't have lead testers to tell the hardest of the lead. But, that lubrisizer told you when you got a batch of bullets cast with lots of antimony in them. We later learned to confirm this by weighing the bullets, which were always lighter than those with pure lead, or lead and tin mixes. The one thing that would stop me in an evening of lubing and sizing bullets was my arm and shoulder wearing out from working the handle on that lubrisizer.
 
All I can give is my personal experience. I use Marvelux. And it works.

I have seen alot of guys over the years that use all kinds of flux, or none at all. And all I know is when I put Marvelux in their alloy or what they consider to be "pure, clean lead", the Marvelux will draw impurities out of the pot. And that even includes the so called pure lead that I have seen people say they have, or have paid extra money for.

I use Marvelux because it works. It is that simple. Is it the most important thing in the world that you have all the impurities out of your alloy or pure lead?? Probably not!! But I know I like mine as clean as I can get it. Tom.
 
Oh, It's not "placebo" with the old oakum laced scrap plumbing lead I get. This is from the iron pipe collars in sewer lines where the oakum is pounded in at the pipe flange and then the lead poured over that. Fluxing brings out rust that came off the iron, old carbonized paint, some solder (I can't get the tin out so I try to manually cut that away first) and lots and lots of cakey crud that was in suspension. I guess if I could get a two paddle blender in the pot I wouldn't need flux. I use beeswax.

But free lead is never turned away from my pot.
 
I think about any molten lead is going the produce a certain amount of "dross" that will eventually stick to the side of the pot and the ladle. I use candle wax. I get good bullets.
Jon D
 
When a guy is melting PURE lead. I mean virgin pure lead from sources like Rotometal. Most people are amazed when they first melt it. They see colors in the lead. Gold, green, blue. Then they wonder about the purity of the lead. They wonder what this stuff is?
It is lead oxides. When the lead is HOT and the top is subjected to oxygen you get this. Well some guys say FLUX! I have never tried some of the store bough flux. I have tried motor oil, saw dust, wax, and other things. I have tried them all, and I have never pinned down a perfect flux if there is one.
I have a lead hardness tester. So I have had the opportunity to do things with it that changed the way I make ingots and bullets.

First When I am making ingots I melt the lead in a old cast iron pot. Instead of fluxing I use a dry, and I mean DRY DRY DRY pine stick. I stir the pot with this stick often. Here is the part most I feel is important in making "my" bullets. I add 1000 grains of magnum lead shot to 10 pounds of lead. Some of you are asking WHY? Well the lead shot has tin and antimony in it. The tin helps to homogenize the lead. Remember all the colors? well by adding this small amount of tin the colors disappear and stay blended. The lead doesn't turn to oxides as easy at least in my opinion. Now the dross is a dull color and not as much of it. Without the tin you get a different color as the pot heats up. This colored dross is good lead. If you throw it out your loosing lead. So the tiny bit of tin keeps it in.

The Antimony will harden the lead. Most of you will say I don't want to harden my lead!!
The amount we are talking about is minuscule. With my hardness tester ( Cabine tree ) I read a dial indicator. Pure lead is 5 BHN but the dial reading for 5 BHN is between .015 to .035 so there is a soft 5 BHN and a hard 5 BHN make sense? My rifle likes bullets in the .035 to .038 range. For the most part we are still talking 5 BHN soft lead.
I tested groups. Bullets shot in the .015 range were ok. I was getting 3" to 4" groups at 100 yards. I bumped the hardness to .035 to .038 and the groups went to sub 2" at 100 yards.

After the ingots cool I test them a few days later. I write the hardness of each ingot on it with a sharpie and separate them into groups.

Now making bullets. I use a LEE bottom pour that I plugged the hole. WHY you might say? As another guy has pointed out lead in a pot will stratify with the heaviest lead at the bottom the lightest at the top. With PURE VIRGIN lead I found that as I poured the bullets out of the bottom pour pot my weight of the bullets was getting lighter as I poured. Also the bottom pour pot would not allow the lead to flow into the mould as fast as I wanted. I was seeing problems like wrinkles and the mould not filling out. The lead was cooling as it flowed into the mould. The flow was not fast enough and I needed it to be faster. So I plugged it and used a ladle.
My mould was throwing a bullet in the 456 grain range and they didn't look good. Most guys are going to say get the lead hotter and the mould hotter dummy!!
Well I did and when the lead got hotter I got more colors. Gold, Blue, and green. I was taking more and more dross off. Well that was when I went to using the lead shot in the LEE pot as a source of tin. That is when I first started to use the 1000 gr per 10 pounds. I noticed several things right off the bat. The colored dross was gone. Then my weight of the bullets went up. I went from getting 456 gr bullets to 460 gr bullets. I target +- .5 gr for my bullets. I also started to see less culls. The tin helped the lead to fill the mould better. Now the bullets had sharp edges and looked better overall. But where it counted was the target range. Like I said before my groups shrunk. Now when I melt lead I will get the lead and Mould hot. I pour a few to get a good one and then I test it hot. I want a bullet that will be .030 after it comes out. Sometimes I have to add a little more shot. That is where the testing of the ingots comes in.
While I have been able to quantify other changes I made to my lead melt. I have never been able to pin point an affect of flux. Ron
 
Well, I believe fluxing does absolutely no harm, so I would normally not feel any need to argue against it. But, I have a feeling the original poster has already had successful casting without using any kind of flux, and is now wondering what he's missing by not using it. So, with that in mind, I hope to present a logical argument as to the ineffectiveness of fluxing, and welcome any feedback as to the validity of my argument.

Let's go over some of the purported benifits of fluxing. It has been stated by a few, that flux will attach to unwanted alloys in the lead (tin, antimony, etc) and bring them to the top so they can be skimmed off, leaving pure lead in the pot. This is probably the weakest argument, as most of us recognize that this is simply impossible, alloys cannot be separated in this manner. If you're one of the few who believe this, ask a metalurgist for the truth. Let's move on.

Some here state that flux will mix with the lead, and and attach to the impurities, and then bring them to the surface, which then allows them to be skimmed off. Now take a minute to really think about this. Ask yourself if it's really possible to mix something as light as wax, sawdust, fat, etc, with something as heavy as lead, a whole potful, and somehow stay submerged long enough to grab onto any crud, and then decide to float to the top. The only way to submerge these light materials under the surface of the lead is to force them down with a ladle, or stick, and only the very small amount of flux particles directly under the ladle will actually penetrate the lead. As soon as the ladle is lifted out of the lead, any flux in the lead will immediately follow to the surface. Try mixing oil and water, and you will get the same result, only the difference in density between lead and organic material is far greater, so the separating effect will be much faster, in fact, instananeous. You just can't mix lead and light organic materials together. Am I wrong here?

It's also been suggested that flux creates a barrier layer on the surface of the lead, preventing the surface of the lead from oxidizing. This makes sense, but if you have a burned layer of carbon floating on your lead, don't you need to skim it off before you pour, so you don't scoop it up with your ladle and pour it into your balls? There goes that protective layer. Does this make sense?

paulvallandigham said:
Because lead is so much heavier than any flux you might try to use, including saw dust, you simply cannot PUSH the flux down into molten lead. What you can do is use a long handled spoon( they get very hot very quickly, so wear gloves!) To stir the molten lead, so that the suspended particles can work to the surface and combine with the carbon.

Exactly Paul, but if you stir the lead, and the particles work to the surface anyway, why do they need to combine with carbon to be skimmed off? Can't you just stir and skim off the impurities without all that burned crud floating on the surface? That's exactly what I do, without fluxing, and it's been working fine for many years. Since you need to skim off the oxidation from time to time anyway, aren't you going to pick up any impurities without using all that smoking material? And what does "combining" mean? The few times I have used flux, I found no actual combining, just that the oxidation and crud in the lead happened to float to the top, occupying the same space at the same time as the flux. All these materials were physically touching, but there was no combining of any sort in my opnion.

I recover an average of 8 out of 10 balls from the dirt where I shoot, and regularly re-melt them to cast new balls. They are about as cruddy as they can get, but after a few stirs of the pot, I have found that the imbedded dirt floats to the top, without any assistance from any kind of flux. Lighter material is going to float to the top of the lead. It's just physics.

Before you readers fall asleep on me, let me give an example of my points that some of you may be familiar with. For those who use cast iron pots, or steel pans for casting, you have probably noticed that rust forms under the lead, and needs to be scraped off after the lead melts. As you scrape the bottom of the pot, you will notice that the rust IMMEDIATELY floats to the top. I'm not talking slowly rising and eventually making it's way to the surface, I'm saying the rust takes less than a half second to pop up. I know some of you guys have witnessed this. Now logically speaking, why would one assume that rust will surface instantly, but other impurities will somehow stay submerged and contaminate the lead? Even if no rust exists, wouldn't any contaminates float to the top at close to the same speed as rust? Now, if one feels the need to flux even after scraping off the rust, isn't he working under the assumption that the rust magically passed around any other crud, leaving it stuck in the middle of the lead for no explanable reason? If you've ever scraped rust off the bottom of the pot, it should be clear why any material lighter than lead cannot stay submerged under the surface, and must float to the top.

Since I was a pipefitter for about 12 years, I also had access to, and have used alot of peeled out lead joints to cast balls, oakum and all. Not once have I ever seen the need to use anything to help get all that stuff out of the lead. It just smokes alot and floats up. I've never noticed the balls having a disproportionate good-to-bad ratio, weight-wise, as compared to using pure x-ray lead. Besides, if fluxing with sawdust, wax, and other gummy substances really worked, wouldn't the smoking greasy oakum act as its own flux, cleaning up the lead without the need for additional flux? Something to think about.

Ok, I'm done. No animosity intended here, and I'm not trying to be right, I just can't see any flaws in my logic. Respectfully, I ask you guys to tell me what you think about my argument. Heck, I may be all wrong and learn something new today. :thumbsup: Thanks for reading, Bill.
 
Ron, In 33 years of casting for ML & CF, I've yet to pay for lead. So I'll still flux mine.
Snow Dragon, ZZZZZZZZZZ
Jon D
 
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