Stock finish upgrade

[ffnh243]

Ive got a rifle with a flawless stock but,its kinda plain. I wanna get that super glossy almost candy coated look to it. is there a way to do it without stripping to bare wood and starting over. if it matters its a traditions brand rifle. Im using it mostly for learning on and the goal is to make it "look" like a pricey custom before attempting the real deal

Thank you :thumbsup:

 

[necchi]

What "super glossy", "pricey custom" kinda rifles do you mean?

Get some Spar varnish and rub it on with your finger tip, or just a spray can will do.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Without knowing what kind of finish is on the stock now, its pretty hard to answer your question. You can TRY to rub on some Tru-oil and see if it sticks. If it doesn't, you may have to strip the existing finish down and start over.

If you use any of the gun stock finishes- I have mentioned B/C Tru-oil, but there are others, sold by Jim Klein,( Homer Dangler's finishes), and Jim Chambers, among others--- you can get that glassy finish by putting a layer on reasonably thick, and letting the stock dry, well. Several coats are usually needed to first fill the pores of the grain of the wood, and then give that smooth, glassy finish, if you are starting with bare wood. I instead, rub in 5-6 coats of Tru-oil, stretching the coats thin, and building them up. It gives not only a glossy finish, but you get that same "deep water" affect you see on cars with multiple layers of lacquer on them. :thumbsup:


I don't do this, however, on MLers. :shocked2: :hmm: :surrender:

 

[ffnh243]

Im lookin at some of those hawken and lemann replicas that look like( at least in pictures) the have an inch of clear "Hard candy " shell on them

 

[ebiggs1]

Getting the new finish to be simpatico with the factory finish is the problem. I would wash it off with mineral spirits and try a can of Minwax gloss urethane. Many light coats of it.

This would not be my first choice for any good (expensive) gun, however.

 

[Zonie]

If you like the looks and color of your existing finish you won't have to remove it.

You should wipe the surfaces with some ammonia to remove any waxes that may have been applied and a washing with some soap and water to remove any trace of he ammonia would follow.

If your stock has open grain (little pits) like most Walnut stocks do you will have to fill these pores with a filler. Birchwood Casey makes a filler called "Gunstock Sealer & Filler".
You apply this fairly thick and rub it into the pores and let it dry for awhile. Then, using a course cloth rub off the excess rubbing accross the grain, not with it in the direction of the butt/muzzle.
If a few of the pores don't totally fill, the oil you apply will fill them but if there are some pores that are totally empty, the oil probably won't totally fill them. These little pits will be very obvious after the stock has a glossy finish so do a good job of filling them.

Get some Tru-Oil, a Birchwood Casey product that is basically a linseed oil with dryers added.
Because it is a simple oil it won't dissolve your existing finish.

Apply the Tru-Oil with a fairly wet coat and allow it to dry at least 8 hours. Then, repeat the application and allow it to dry.

While its drying go to your hardware store and buy some 600 or finer grit wet/dry, black sandpaper. One sheet will be enough.

After the second coat is dry, tear off a small piece of the sandpaper and wet it with water.
Very LIGHTLY sand the surface to remove any of the little bumps that dust causes. When the surface looks uniformaly dull (the paper will not polish the surface, it will scratch it), repeat the two oilings and sandings as you did before.
Do not try to remove anything except the little bumps.
If these little bumps or some 'orange peel' finish is left on the stock they will stand out like a bad case of zits at the High School Ball.

After at least 6 coats of finish have been applied, do not sand the surface. Just allow it to dry.

Buy some "Wright's Silver Cream" and using a piece of soft cotton material apply the creme and rub the surface using a circular pattern.
When the small area looks polished, move on to the next area.

This is a labor intensive job so be prepared for a lot of rubbing. Do not try using a courser or more abrasive polish or you will dull up the appearance.

When you have finished your stock should look like Walnut versions of these.

By the way, I had to work at making these not 'mirror bright' after doing what I've described above.
If you just stop with the silver polish the finish will look like a high cost Browning or Weatherby.