some whitworth shooting

[Jshorter]

Did some more shooting with the whitworth yesterday at 100 yards. I am happy with my first couple groups, but it opened up on my last group. Got some chronograph results as well.

The 500 grain pure lead conical grease groove bullets mushroomed nicely in the dirt. I’m still trying to find a good paper patch mold to try.

Chrono:
70gr: 1250
75gr: 1290
80gr: 1337

 

[dave951]

Keep an eye on the nipple. Whitworths are hard on them and they're considered a wear item.

 

[Jshorter]

Keep an eye on the nipple. Whitworths are hard on them and they're considered a wear item.

I have the platinum lined nipple but it gives me a ton of trouble. It is almost impossible to get out every time. I bent, cracked, and sheared my nipple wrench already. I’ve tried kroil and put on anti seize before installing, but I still have to use a square socket and wrench plus a ton of pressure to remove it. Something doesn’t seem right.

 

[morehops52]

I would just go back to the regular nipples and replace them more often. Seems to me that the added cost (how much can that be?) would be worth not having that amount of aggravation

 

[Jshorter]

I would just go back to the regular nipples and replace them more often. Seems to me that the added cost (how much can that be?) would be worth not having that amount of aggravation

Yeah I’ll probably end up trying some other nipples since I’m not sure what else to try with this one.

 

[dave951]

I have the platinum lined nipple but it gives me a ton of trouble. It is almost impossible to get out every time. I bent, cracked, and sheared my nipple wrench already. I’ve tried kroil and put on anti seize before installing, but I still have to use a square socket and wrench plus a ton of pressure to remove it. Something doesn’t seem right.

Did you use any anti seize on it? I put a dab of white lithium on the threads on mine and have never had an issue.

 

[Jshorter]

Did you use any anti seize on it? I put a dab of white lithium on the threads on mine and have never had an issue.

Yes I used a good bit of anti seize and still after 15-20 shots it’s near impossible to remove. Once I do get it out it and clean it, then it threads in very easily by hand.

 

[ResearchPress]

Yes I used a good bit of anti seize and still after 15-20 shots it’s near impossible to remove. Once I do get it out it and clean it, then it threads in very easily by hand.

Is that the issue - the nipple is perhaps not a good fit and permitting fouling in the threads? I’ve shot Whitworth and similar long range .45 calibre rifles for many years with platinum lined nipples. I use PTFE tape on the threads and never have difficulty in removing them.

The nipples on such rifles can burn out quickly - slight lifting of the hammer will allow some gas blow back and play havoc with elevation at long range. The 19thC solution was the platinum lined nipple.

David

 

[TFoley]

They seem to be pretty cheap in the USA - one of the posters here makes them, I recall, for about half the UK price. I've had over 100 shots out of mine with no sighs of wear or erosion. The back-flame just doesn't get hot enough to have any affect on platinum.

 

[Jshorter]

Is that the issue - the nipple is perhaps not a good fit and permitting fouling in the threads? I’ve shot Whitworth and similar long range .45 calibre rifles for many years with platinum lined nipples. I use PTFE tape on the threads and never have difficulty in removing them.

The nipples on such rifles can burn out quickly - slight lifting of the hammer will allow some gas blow back and play havoc with elevation at long range. The 19thC solution was the platinum lined nipple.

David

Yes, I’m almost certain that’s the issue. The fouling clogs the threads. The tape sounds like a good idea and I’ll be giving it a try next time.

 

[nkbj]

Jshorter, about finding a paper patched mold...
As long as you're staying with round bullets, having an inexpensively obtained second or third hand (smaller diameter) mold machined to a larger smooth sided cavity of your chosen nose design and diameter is as good a way to go as any. Producing a rough finish on the cavity (to help the paper stay on) isn't a bad idea.
When machining out a smaller mold to make paper patched bullets the big question is how big does the mold diameter need to be to give exactly the desired cooled bullet diameter. Ah but wait, you can't cast a bullet ahead of time to check for shrinkage because the cavity isn't big enough yet. If you can machine it out to almost final, and cast with it for reference numbers and then final machine it then yeah, you could do that. But if not you're stuck with sizing after paper patching. And if you're going to do that with a smooth sided bullet then some surface roughness can help the paper not slip.
I've sized smooth sided .40, .58 and .69 after paper patching. About ready to have an old mold remachined to use in my .458" bore (.470" groove) rifle.

Hey, by the way, have you tried paper patching castings that you currently use lubed?
Taking them down to below bore diameter after patching shouldn't be a problem with a good quality push though sizer.

 

[Jshorter]

Jshorter, about finding a paper patched mold...
As long as you're staying with round bullets, having an inexpensively obtained second or third hand (smaller diameter) mold machined to a larger smooth sided cavity of your chosen nose design and diameter is as good a way to go as any. Producing a rough finish on the cavity (to help the paper stay on) isn't a bad idea.
When machining out a smaller mold to make paper patched bullets the big question is how big does the mold diameter need to be to give exactly the desired cooled bullet diameter. Ah but wait, you can't cast a bullet ahead of time to check for shrinkage because the cavity isn't big enough yet. If you can machine it out to almost final, and cast with it for reference numbers and then final machine it then yeah, you could do that. But if not you're stuck with sizing after paper patching. And if you're going to do that with a smooth sided bullet then some surface roughness can help the paper not slip.
I've sized smooth sided .40, .58 and .69 after paper patching. About ready to have an old mold remachined to use in my .458" bore (.470" groove) rifle.

Hey, by the way, have you tried paper patching castings that you currently use lubed?
Taking them down to below bore diameter after patching shouldn't be a problem with a good quality push though sizer.

I never thought of remachining an old mold. I’ll probably end up buying one anyways. I plan on having to size before or after paper patching anyways depending on what paper I’m going to use. I think I’ll get a mold on the larger side so I have some room to play with sizing.

I have not tried patching bullets that I have now because I already have to size them down about .005-.006.

 

[Bad Karma]

I have the platinum lined nipple but it gives me a ton of trouble. It is almost impossible to get out every time. I bent, cracked, and sheared my nipple wrench already. I’ve tried kroil and put on anti seize before installing, but I still have to use a square socket and wrench plus a ton of pressure to remove it. Something doesn’t seem right.

Is it a Parker Hale? I have had Italian replicas which weren’t tapped properly and required running a bottoming tap into the breech before an aftermarket nipple would fit correctly.

 

[Jshorter]

Is it a Parker Hale? I have had Italian replicas which weren’t tapped properly and required running a bottoming tap into the breech before an aftermarket nipple would fit correctly.

Yes it is an all British made Parker hale.

 

[TFoley]

Yes it is an all British made Parker hale.

Serial number please, if you have not already passed it on to Mr Minshall, who is keeping a tally of P-H production for historical purposes. If you are concerned that somebody is going to somehow misuse your serial number, then PM him.

 

[Jshorter]

Serial number please, if you have not already passed it on to Mr Minshall, who is keeping a tally of P-H production for historical purposes. If you are concerned that somebody is going to somehow misuse your serial number, then PM him.

Serial number is 655

 

[TFoley]

Serial number is 655

Thank you, Sir. That makes it am early 1980's production example. Mine is 420, from 1980.

 

[Jshorter]

Thank you, Sir. That makes it am early 1980's production example. Mine is 420, from 1980.

I think I dated it to 82 or 83

 

[TFoley]

I think I dated it to 82 or 83

In my book, those dates fit nicely into the description 'early 1980's'.

 

[ResearchPress]

…having an inexpensively obtained second or third hand (smaller diameter) mold machined to a larger smooth sided cavity of your chosen nose design and diameter is as good a way to go as any. Producing a rough finish on the cavity (to help the paper stay on) isn't a bad idea.

Yes it is. Ideally the paper is sheared and should fall away from the bullet as it exits the barrel on firing.

David