Who can tell me what the best solder is for attaching ram rod thimbles to an under rib? 60/40, 50/50, low temp, silver. I use silver solder at work quite a bit, but I am concerned about the amount of heat it takes. I would hate to ruin a rib or thimble. Likewise, I would hate to have them come loose in the future. Any sugestions?
-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Solder for ram rod thimbles?
- Thread starter R.J.
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I suspect the silver solder you are using at work is actually "silver brazing".
This takes at least a "red heat" temperature to work.
The "Low temperature silver solder" melts in the 400-500 degree temperature range which will not damage your under rib or the thimbles and it is quite a bit stronger than any of the lead/tin solders.
That said, I think a lead/tin "soft solder" would do just fine for attaching the underlugs. After all, unless they get "whacked" by something they aren't really subject to any real strain.
Whichever solder you choose be sure to have the surfaces absolutly clean of all oils, waxes and oxidation and use a good flux that is made for steel parts. Rosin or rosin core solders are made for copper wire or brass parts but even if your thimbles are brass the under rib is steel so that is the type of flux you will need.
This takes at least a "red heat" temperature to work.
The "Low temperature silver solder" melts in the 400-500 degree temperature range which will not damage your under rib or the thimbles and it is quite a bit stronger than any of the lead/tin solders.
That said, I think a lead/tin "soft solder" would do just fine for attaching the underlugs. After all, unless they get "whacked" by something they aren't really subject to any real strain.
Whichever solder you choose be sure to have the surfaces absolutly clean of all oils, waxes and oxidation and use a good flux that is made for steel parts. Rosin or rosin core solders are made for copper wire or brass parts but even if your thimbles are brass the under rib is steel so that is the type of flux you will need.
Stophel
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2005
- Messages
- 5,949
- Reaction score
- 858
Lead will work fine. It was used 250 years ago. :wink:
Tin solder is slightly stronger, and that's what I use for soldering stuff like this. Plumber's solder. Some of it has a small amount of silver in it. It does make it stronger, but is entirely unnecessary.
Real silver solder is definitely overkill.
Tin solder is slightly stronger, and that's what I use for soldering stuff like this. Plumber's solder. Some of it has a small amount of silver in it. It does make it stronger, but is entirely unnecessary.
Real silver solder is definitely overkill.
Ok,lets say I decide to use the lead/tin alloy solder. What is the best way to "tin" the thimble and keep the solder from traveling all over the piece. I like the idea of tinning both the thimble and the rib, then sweating them together. They are going to be "iron" as opposed to brass thimbles.
I use Swif 95 soldering paste that contains 95% tin, 5% antimony and flux. Melts at 464 degrees. Use a soldering brush to apply and don't aim the torch at the paste but instead heat the rib and pipe. Easy to use w/ no runovers. Bought mine at Brownells.....Fred
ricklandes
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2006
- Messages
- 391
- Reaction score
- 0
I like silver solder the best as it gives the most strength and to my eye seems to blend better at the seam than some of the others. It does not matter to me the seam is next to the wood, I know it is there and I am fussy about such things. Any mentioned will work. Since you do that at work it would seem a natural course for you to follow.
I see some noted it as an overkill, but I would rather do something once and absolutely know it will stay.
With regard to the tinning, if you go with some of the lower temp solders a soldering iron give a great deal of control
I see some noted it as an overkill, but I would rather do something once and absolutely know it will stay.
With regard to the tinning, if you go with some of the lower temp solders a soldering iron give a great deal of control
Stophel
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2005
- Messages
- 5,949
- Reaction score
- 858
Ooh, good point. You don't want your rod pipes falling off when you solder on your rib.
Hard silver solder for the pipes will do fine. It won't hurt anything, and it will definitely stay together when you solder on your rib with tin.
Hard silver solder for the pipes will do fine. It won't hurt anything, and it will definitely stay together when you solder on your rib with tin.
White out for solder stop. Who da thunk it. That's pretty cool. I will be screwing the rib on, so cooking off the thimbles won't be a problem. The silver solder I use at work is applied with an oxy/acetaline torch. Mighty hot. I like the idea of the lower temp sugestions here. I never thought about using an iron instead of flame. Good idea. I have to agree with silver solder being strong. The things we solder up need to be perminant, and are in an industrial fashion. I appreciate the good sugestions you all brought to light.
I'm sure Marshal already knows this but for folks new to soldering who are using a propane torch to heat the metal remember, do NOT aim the flame at the thin part. Doing so will overheat it resulting in the flux being burned off and the metal oxidizing.
Solder won't stick to oxidized metal.
Aim the torch a few inches away from the whole area to be soldered and slowly heat the thicker part.
The heat will travel down to the area of the solder joint and when it is hot enough, touching the area with the solder will cause it to melt.
After it is melted, stop heating the part and let everything slowly cool
Solder won't stick to oxidized metal.
Aim the torch a few inches away from the whole area to be soldered and slowly heat the thicker part.
The heat will travel down to the area of the solder joint and when it is hot enough, touching the area with the solder will cause it to melt.
After it is melted, stop heating the part and let everything slowly cool
Doug Lykins
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2008
- Messages
- 303
- Reaction score
- 1
So, using mapp-gas is not a good idea, even for silver solder? Too much heat? ThanksZonie said:
ricklandes
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2006
- Messages
- 391
- Reaction score
- 0
We use propylene and oxygen in most of our torches. Wave the flame back and forth over the part in much the way Zonie shares. An indirect heat works the best.
You'll do an excellent job!
You'll do an excellent job!
Len Graves
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2008
- Messages
- 689
- Reaction score
- 4
When soldering. to keep solder from getting where you don't want it to go is; As was mentioned before, don't put flux there. You can also use a soft pencil and rub the graphite where you don't want solder, or soap stone( welders marker) can be used in the same way as pencil. Good luck.
Len Graves
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2008
- Messages
- 689
- Reaction score
- 4
I just read about the white out. didn't know that one. See I am not too old to learn, if I could only remember this stuff.
Sure, use MAPP gas or Propane or Butane or whatever.
Just keep the tip of the flame at a distance from the base metal so it heats the parts slowly.
That way you can sneak up on the right temperature.
Speaking of sneaking up on things, that is one of the prime reasons I don't often use my Dremal tool when I'm building a gun.
Using hand tools allows me to sneak up on whatever I'm doing so I don't accidentally "do" to much. :grin:
Just keep the tip of the flame at a distance from the base metal so it heats the parts slowly.
That way you can sneak up on the right temperature.
Speaking of sneaking up on things, that is one of the prime reasons I don't often use my Dremal tool when I'm building a gun.
Using hand tools allows me to sneak up on whatever I'm doing so I don't accidentally "do" to much. :grin:
Similar threads
