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Slow rust blue

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Shack56

36 Cal.
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Hello all, I'm getting ready to do my first slow rust blue project using Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown and I have a couple questions, can I reuse the distilled water for other projects, also when neutralizing with baking soda can I use regular tap water or does it have to be distilled also?
 
Why would you want to re-use the distilled water? It's probably contaminated after being used for your bluing job. Besides, it sure isn't expensive enough to warrant re-using it. That is, unless you want to use it to water some flowers. I guess it would be alright for that.

When I have used Laurel Mountain Forge browning, I have just used tap water with the baking soda to neutralize it. Never encountered any problems. But, at less than $1 per gallon, if you are more comfortable using distilled water for your neutralization process, ain't nothing wrong with it.
 
The idea using distilled water is to have water with no other trace element minerals that can be found in much of our tap water. Around here there can be a high amount of iron other places have calcium,, all of which can change the color of the metal subjected to the boiling water

Tap water is fine for the next phase, when using Baking Soda to neutralize you want to make more of a paste,, very little water.

I've had the baking soda wash fail at getting all the chemicals out and had rust start later on,, I switched to household ammonia for neutralizing.
 
necchi said:
The idea using distilled water is to have water with no other trace element minerals that can be found in much of our tap water. Around here there can be a high amount of iron other places have calcium,, all of which can change the color of the metal subjected to the boiling water

Tap water is fine for the next phase, when using Baking Soda to neutralize you want to make more of a paste,, very little water.

I've had the baking soda wash fail at getting all the chemicals out and had rust start later on,, I switched to household ammonia for neutralizing.

That's why back when many of the recipes for such recommended rain water.

And yep ammonia is IMO a better choice than baking soda - one must take better care safety wise and rinse well afterwards, but it will sure put a stop to the rust. Follow up with a good coat of oil and/or wax and things should be just fine.
 
I hate the smell of amonia. :barf: :( :shake: :td: so I use the baking soda approach. Works for me and doesn't stink the place up. I also have good well water so don't worry about the distilled water deal either. If I had some of the nasty city water that I've encountered I would consider distilled water.
 
I assume you are wanting to use the distilled water to change the brown iron oxide to black iron oxide?

If so, you have the right idea. Use distilled water to do the conversion.

As for neutralizing the browning agent, IMO, you won't have to do a thing.

Boiling the browned barrel in the distilled water will not only change the color but it will wash away any caustics or salts that were on the barrel after the browning process.

Because these caustics and salts end up in the distilled water it is no good for drinking or for using it in a battery.

Use it to water your plants. They won't mind the added chemicals. :)
 
I use a thick paste of baking soda, just rub it all over the barrel with my hands, also acts as a bit of a polisher.

Rinse with tap water, then I heat up the barrel and rub bees wax all over the outside of the barrel. Then I oil the heck out of the inside and outside of the barrel.

Fleener
 
Thanks all, I see things a little clearer now and a better understanding.
Thanks again, Steve
 
Here where I live the the city water has. So much stuff that I use rain water for guns and dyeing. Good fluoride and the like for YOUR good or so they say.
GOD BLESS the government. They are saving me from my self.
 
My son uses well water for the carding and boiling. He does it 10-12 times for a barrel set. Boiling is what makes it blue or black.

A set of SXS barrels refinished he gets $400.00 it works out to about $5.0 an hour that includes starting polish.

It ain't cheap but doing it yourself can save $$$$$$$
 
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