Rust cure/prevention

[squirejohn]

My French fusil lock and barrel were left "in the white". Now after a few years I finally took the barrel off and found there was quite a bit of corosion; particularly around the front barrel lug. To slow this down and prevent further pitting I thought I would clean up the area and paint the rusty portion (it's under the barrel channel and won't show) with a primer paint. Does this seem appropriate? Any other suggestions? ::

 

[Stumpkiller]

It depends entirely on your definition of what "quite a bit of corosion" is. I have had good results in removing light rust from 'in the white' locks with a product called "FLITZ". It is a very mild abrasive and metal protectant that most knife dealers carry. It will leave the metal bright and shiny, so I usually go after the area LIGHTLY with a Dremel tool and a stainless steel brush bit to get the satin finish back. I also use toothbrush-size stainless brushes to even up the appearance of the metal. Start gently. You're not trying to grind the spots out, just buff them free of oxidation.

You could primer spray it, but you'd run the risk of trapping and hiding rust under the primer, and the paint would eventually flake into the works and gum things up if you use in on the back of the side-plate. I have never heard of anyone trying this. I coat the inner flat areas of my locks and the barrel within the channel with CLP/Breakfree wiped on heavy with a cloth. You don't want so much that it soaks into the wood, just an even coat. Plain old boiled linseed oil is not bad as a coating to apply and rub into 'in the white' locks and barrels. The mechanism itself should be oiled lightly so it won't attract grit and grime and gall up. When everything is reassembled I rub warm beeswax into the gap between the wood and the area around the lock so that powder residue can't settle in (the fouling attracts and holds moisture).

 

[gordy]

I assume that the barrel is round on Your Fusil,so would agree with Stumpkillers suggestion! On weapons with octagon barrels ,a single edged razor blade will do wonders.It's used like a draw knife,pulled along each flat in nearly an upright position.Done a few strokes on every flat it will even restore the sharpness of the edges.This is basically how they restore the ways on used machinery,lathes Etc.The finish will be quite close to (satin).The idea of filling the barrel-stock gap with beeswax works well on weapons that arn't disassembled after shooting each time.Make sure to clean the stock barrel chanel well before reassembly,any fouling left here, can start the problem over again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Doc Arroyo]

Hello Squire-

Oils will work on the metal as long as the wood in the barrel channel is sealed, but usually they aren't. So I use good old Johnson's Paste Wax. Rub it into the barrel channel and buff. Rub it into the bottom of the barrel and buff. Repin your barrel.

I try to do this once a year, but have gone 3 years without checking it. There was a bit of surface rust in a couple of small spots, but was 90% good.

 

[Flintshooter in Indiana]

You can also use a light coat of grease (bearing, axle, etc.) under the barrel. I've see it used under the butt plate also. Supposed to keep moisture from the wood if'n you stick it in water while loading, or the ground's damp.

 

[squirejohn]

Thanks for all the feedback.

After sanding a little on the barrel I found the rust insn't as bad as I first thought. I'll continue removing the rust and use the Dremel tool with brush around the barrel lugs. The breech and lock areas are rust free and I suspect rust was caused by me having the gun in a verticle position when pouring water down the barrel for cleaning and some of the water dribbled down between the barrel and stock. I think i'll try the paste wax method first and also seal the barrel channel with beeswax. I could also use grease (Rig) if the wax doesn't work out. Probably the best thing to do is modify my cleaning procedure and plan on removing the barrel at least once a year for inspection and re-waxing or oil/grease. Removing the barrel isn't as "scary" as I thought it might be - being the Klutz that I am.

 

[Stumpkiller]

When you're usng hot water, wrap the muzzle several times with an old towel and lay the gun on a table (on another old towel) with the vent down. That way the water won't run down the outside of the barrel. The towel also helps you hold the barrel when it gets hot. I don't know that you should seal the whole barrel channel. If moisture does find a way in (it always does) it needs to be able to find a way out.

 

[Darkhorse]

I think you should seal all the wood you can possibly reach. Inside holes get a coating with an artists brush and as far up the ramrod channel as I can reach. I DO however think water should have a place to drain out of a barrel channel, so all my mortices for the barrel tennons go all the way through into the ramrod channel, then are cleaned and squared up with small swiss files. These areas also are sealed.