I'd sell that thing off for what ever I could get for it and go buy a real lock that works.
no i'd cut it up before i'd sell something unusable to someone. I can't do that to someone.
Yep, that thing is worth some good money to somebody who has one and needs parts.As long as you are up front with people about the lock having problems, I don't see a problem with selling it. Someone may be looking for parts for that particular lock and could make use of yours.
I don't think there is any fixing this frizzen, it dosent seam to be cast correctly.
maybe I could grind down the bottom of the frizzen face then cut out the pan cover with a rotory file. It needs to go forward about 1\16" that may end up going into the cover.
I ordered a durs egg l&r hoping that is is closer fit.
I would weld up the pivot hole in the foot of the frizzen and the lock move the frizzen forward where it belongs and re drill the whole
I would try reducing the strength of the frizzen spring first, before purchasing another. To do this I suggest thinning the lower leg by grinding or sanding, as long as you do the removal parallel to the leg. Never cross ways, as that can cause fracture. Polish all tooling marks to smooth. How much removal is the 64 dollar question. I would take a small amount and try, then more if you are not satisfied. When I am in doubt, I like to take it slow and sneak up on my result.
Harden the frizzen by uniformly heating to 1500 deg (this is bright red) and then quickly quenching in a quart or so of light weight oil (never water) moving parts slowly around in oil until cool. If hard it will not file.
Temper the hardness………heat 1 hour in oven at 375 deg (62-64 Rockwell C)
Good luck, & keep us posted
Flintlocklar
Tom,I I got the new frizzen from TOW I have it fitted to the lock. a little bit of modifying but it strikes good when the flint hits it. I loosend up the frizzen spring and had to change the cam ramp a tiny bit seems all good.
now I'm gonna heat treat it.
you say quench the frizzen in light oil. such as cooking oil or motor oil? what is proper?
thanks
ou
tom
Welding on any part can and usually does cause it to distort or, warp.
Just something to keep in mind.
As Jim said, welding could, and most likely will warp the plate. To me if you are determined to rid the name: I would try Grenadiers punch suggestion, but if it is surface hardened the metal may not compress. In that case you may have to grind off the surface hardening, in order to punch in the metal. My second hint will make some members cringe, but it would work for a result. Go ahead and epoxy in the name, then grind/polish smooth. Blue or brown the lock to your preference, then touch up the letters with paint, yes good old paint. No one will know if you do it right!It sparks! Best ever!
I had to make a small spacer to shim the frizzen pivot. now onto the mainspring issue then a bunch of clean up on it to make it nice.
One more question, even though I know I have maxed out my question quota.
Do you think it safe to weld up the name on the lock plate. I want to file it off but it’s too deep, looks like maybe part of the casting?
Thank all for your help, so happy that it will actually work now
Ou
Tom
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