Ripped to Shreds!

[Carl Fowler III]

New barrel break-in period? Using .440 ball and .015 patch (Dutch S. Moose Milk-7-1 ratio) in front of 75gr of 3F Goex powder. Patches are just being ripped to shreds, only fired a few thru the new barrel and am wondering if this is normal?

 

[thecapgunkid]

try to do one thing at a time when you correct.

The thickened patch, scoured barrel ( for break in), lighter charge alternatives will drive you nuts if you do them in combination.

Sort of like the Steelers when they come down the runway and you can just see they are not on their game...

We used to live in Cranbery Twp and miss the manure outta the place. I may have shot with you several years ago, and mention that because there are plenty of guys doing trailwalks who can give you help onsite.

Is this a production gun? The trouble I had like this with one years ago was a replica rifle, .45, with a roman nose. I just changed the ball patch combination and the patches started coming out the right way.

Good luck

 

[don hepler]

Patches, ripped to shreds, can be caused by something other than a new barrel. Some precut patches are rotten to start with. Patches that are too thin, will let hot gasses escape and blow out patches, especially on guns with deep rifling. Sharp edges at the crown can damage the patch during loading. I run JB bore polish in most of my new barrels, just to polish any burrs. I use metal range rods and tight patches, for best accuracy. Some people use wad over powder, to help seal the patch from the gasses.

 

[BrownBear]

New barrel break-in period?

Depends on the brand. Lyman GPR barrels for example generally take around 200 rounds to settle in, longer if the crown is sharp. Folks sometimes shorten the break-in period by lapping the barrel and/or smoothing the crown. I've always been of the school that I really need those 200 extra shots more than I need to lap.

Details on your barrel would probably let folks with the same make chime in with detailed info.

 

[Dr5x]

If there are burrs and snags left in your barrel after rifling reasonably tight fitting wiping or shooting patch on your ramrod should engage them and let you know they exist.
If that simple test runs smoothly with no catches, rips or tears then the problem might be in the material you are using as a shooting patch. Too loose a weave just comes apart during the explosion of the powder.
I had very good luck with the denims available in great variety in most fabric stores.
I am a bit puzzled by your 7 to 1 ratio "Moose Milk"
Moose Milk is for wiping between shots and general cleaning, the 7 to 1 ratio would refer to my Patch Lube formula.

Dutch

 

[Dr5x]

Further thoughts
If you do find snags and/or burrs, try running some patches made of "ScotchBrite" scouring cloth up and down the barrel and see if that doesn't help. Some suggest using steel wool but I have never tried that.


I have never found anything like your problem in any of the replacement barrels I have used from Green Mountain or any that came with a new rifle.

Usually your problem stems from the nature of the cloth you are using.

Dutch

 

[Carl Fowler III]

Sorry Dutch, I meant patch lube at 7-1 ratio... the patches are .015 Daisy from October Country. I will try another patch material first that I have used with success on my other muzzleloaders. They mic out much thicker and have the same patch lube at 7-1 ratio. I'll keep you posted on the results. :v

 

[nwtradegun]

use a rod with a rotating head and scotch brite pad. it will inbed in the rifling and do a better job than a straight rod. adding fine water base polish compound is another choice.