Quality of L&R lock?

[Donny]

"Is this a quality lock? I'm expecting a much better sparker than I've had for the last year or so. Hope that's true. Any comments?"..
...yes, I have a comment...they suck.
As mentioned before;
[ check out the archives on L&R "flintlocks"].
Buying a L&R is a a crapshoot, spend your money take your chances, some are delirious with their lock, some want to throw theirs in the garbage.
Once burned on a couple of L&R's , I will not make that mistake again.

 

A manure shoot is a good analogy. A manure shoot is not a good option when spending a couple hundred hours on building a fine rifle. For flintlock builds, I prefer Chambers or Rowe. Percussion locks? Anything will bust a cap but I prefer Davis Hawken locks designed by Ron Long.

Does L&R really stand for loose and rickety? :rotf:

 

[Grantman]

I have a L&R lock on a RMC rifle. I really have to fill that little pan to get consistant ignition, but the biggest problem is rust. The finish under the blue is rough, almost sandblasted, and is a perfect place to gather moisture. Every time I use the rifle, I have to clean every nook and cranny on the lock with Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor.

 

[Halftail]

Every time I use the rifle, I have to clean every nook and cranny on the lock with Shooter's Choice Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor.

I clean every nook and cranny on all my muzzleloaders after every time I use them to prevent rust.

 

[Grantman]

I have two TC locks over 30 years old and the L&R lock that is two years old. The L& R is the only one that has ever shown rust. I clean the exterior of the TC locks with alcohol or really hot water. I have never used a rust preventive product on the exterior of a TC lock.

 

[Homesteader]

Looks like there's no longer a consensus on these locks, and the mood's definitely turned against them. Got me worried, now. The guy I spoke with at TotW assured me I could return it if I wasn't happy. It cost me $130, which I sure don't want to waste on a POS. I like my rifle, but it's nothing special. Can't turn a Honda into a BMW, y'know.

What should I look for prior to use to indicate it's not a good lock?

What lock would those of you who don't like L&R recommend? And how much would I have to spend?

 

[Donny]

My first L & R was the Manton, you could take out the innards, then replace just the screws, and easily see the holes were not drilled perpendicular to the lock face or even each other. I did not pay close attention to this when I removed the innards to inlet the lock. It felt "draggy" or binding when worked.
I am surprised to see the Manton is considered one of the better L&R locks.
I read where some of those who like L&R locks; like them after "tuning" or some work by a pro or complete novice to get the lock to spark better.
As noted, it doesn't take much of a lock to snap a cop, so I would consider a L&R caplock if there were no other choices, but again, a crapshoot on the flinters, ypou just may hit the jackpot and get a goodin', but read where many many folks lost out..
I have since bought a bunch of Chambers flintlocks and they spark great right out of the box. I am certain Davis locks are good, but I haven't tried one.

 

[talon]

Does anyone make left & right handed locks for double flintlock shotguns besides L&R ?

 

[CZMark]

Homesteader,

Don't panic. I got an RPL about 6 months ago to replace the lock on my wife's CVA Mountain Rifle. It is FAR better than what was originally on the gun. I'm sure you will be happy with yours.

 

[Dave K]

Unfortunatley,L&R is the only one that makes nearly correct, locks in left and right that I am aware of. That is why is have 4 L&R locks now. After sending both pairs out, they now work MUCH better, but they are still not as good as the Chambers locks I have. Of course, I only have 2 Chambers locks.