• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Prettiest Cap and Ball

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My favorite is the one I can put my hand on fastest.
20180905_211812.jpg
 
If one Colt 2nd gen 1861 Navy is pretty then two are twice as pretty. I just received this new double case made by Bill Shumate (Billscases.com) to give this consecutively numbered pair a new home. Bill uses African mahogany to make his historically authentic cases just like those that Sam Colt contracted to have made back in the day.
oNppaVy.jpg

u1MuUFv.jpg

nwhOKcj.jpg


Cheers
 
I have a High Standard Griz and Gunny that should be named "Loosey". It was that way when I bought it just for a display piece with relics. I too have wondered if it could be fixed. The arbor appears to be pinned in the frame, does anybody know if it is?
I have been mulling over this brass-framed Griz and Gunny looseness issue. I find that the slop is both vertical and horizontal around the arbor and I was able to measure the gap at the bottom of the frame (when I press and hold the end of the barrel up so the forcing cone is against the cylinder) with a taper gauge and a set of feeler gauges. The gap is .014-.015". I imagine a combination of shims at the gap totaling .013" might be the cure, allowing for a gap between cylinder and barrel. The shim would accommodate the 2 pins protruding from the frame. Does this sound reasonable to the more experienced and knowledgeable in this audience? Any advice is, as always, welcome.
 
The "Griz and Gunny" was my first black powder firearm, a High Standard I spotted in the display case at a local feed store in '75. The brass frame caught my eye and over the years of shooting nothing but max loads (the ignorance of youth) I managed to shoot it loose, so it sits forlorn in the safe and was recently replaced by a steel framed Pietta 1851. Just curious, but is there a way to restore the High Standard? Anybody out there familiar with the process? Or is it a wall hanger now...

First of all, a photo of the front of the recoil shield with the cylinder removed is a must.

Yes, it can be repaired but it will not be cheap. Shooting heavy loads in a brasser tends to imprint the rear cylinder ratchet into the frame. With hammer down or at full cock there will be considerable cylinder end play. At half cock there should be considerably less because the ratchet does not fit into the damaged portion of the recoil shield. A very thin steel shim washer the same size/diameter as the damaged portion of the recoil shield can be silver soldered in place so as to obviate the damage, but the barrel/cylinder gap will have to be addressed.

The arbor is steel and is pinned into the brass frame, the pin being visible when the hammer is at full cock. It can be drilled out, the arbor reset in its threaded hole with Loctite, and a new pin installed. Normally an arbor in a brass frame works loose during the ramming of the ball into the chambers of the cylinder due to excessive force using oversized balls.

High Standard used Uberti parts that were finished by HS in the US. Although marked Griswold & Gunnison by HS, it is nothing more than an 1851 Navy .36 with a part round/part octagon barrel. Since it was manufactured prior to both Uberti and Pietta going to CNC machining, internal replacement parts will be very hard to find if needed.

If it was mine, it would be a display item only as it has seen better days and not worth the money to restore it, and even if restored it won't be original. Prior to the pandemic, Pietta marketed a G&G .36 that is CNC machined and replacement parts were readily available. I have one but do not shoot it. I only shoot a few steel framed revolvers in my Pietta .36 collection.

Regards,

Jim
 
Beautiful case! What is Bill's turn around time ?

If one Colt 2nd gen 1861 Navy is pretty then two are twice as pretty. I just received this new double case made by Bill Shumate (Billscases.com) to give this consecutively numbered pair a new home. Bill uses African mahogany to make his historically authentic cases just like those that Sam Colt contracted to have made back in the day.
oNppaVy.jpg

u1MuUFv.jpg

nwhOKcj.jpg


Cheers
 
You can help your strength, if you can stand the pain of doing it. The pain you will have to live with. Growing old ain't for sissies.

Takes a liberal amount of Volteran 2% to get me thru a set. Arthritis compounded by 2 carpal tunnel surgeries (and the 2 titanium rods and 26 other metal parts in my right arm) ain't fun. No pot oil thanks!
 
I've been using my Cannabis oil for bullet lube. Sweet wife got it for me thinking it might help the pain from old injuries. It didn't help but since It wasn't cheap waste not want not so bullet lube it is now. :thumb:

Just a heads up on the pot oil use or dermal exposure. Local well certified mechanic got fired after failing drug test here in OR from using it. Still a class 1 narcotic. Workmans Comp shared his info so hes screwed for life. Also hear ATF was in town copying 4473s. Been told they can cross check CC records for anything pot related.
 
It i
Just a heads up on the pot oil use or dermal exposure. Local well certified mechanic got fired after failing drug test here in OR from using it. Still a class 1 narcotic. Workmans Comp shared his info so hes screwed for life. Also hear ATF was in town copying 4473s. Been told they can cross check CC records for anything pot related.
Fortunely it's legal non THC containing type.
 
First of all, a photo of the front of the recoil shield with the cylinder removed is a must.

Yes, it can be repaired but it will not be cheap. Shooting heavy loads in a brasser tends to imprint the rear cylinder ratchet into the frame. With hammer down or at full cock there will be considerable cylinder end play. At half cock there should be considerably less because the ratchet does not fit into the damaged portion of the recoil shield. A very thin steel shim washer the same size/diameter as the damaged portion of the recoil shield can be silver soldered in place so as to obviate the damage, but the barrel/cylinder gap will have to be addressed.

The arbor is steel and is pinned into the brass frame, the pin being visible when the hammer is at full cock. It can be drilled out, the arbor reset in its threaded hole with Loctite, and a new pin installed. Normally an arbor in a brass frame works loose during the ramming of the ball into the chambers of the cylinder due to excessive force using oversized balls.

High Standard used Uberti parts that were finished by HS in the US. Although marked Griswold & Gunnison by HS, it is nothing more than an 1851 Navy .36 with a part round/part octagon barrel. Since it was manufactured prior to both Uberti and Pietta going to CNC machining, internal replacement parts will be very hard to find if needed.

If it was mine, it would be a display item only as it has seen better days and not worth the money to restore it, and even if restored it won't be original. Prior to the pandemic, Pietta marketed a G&G .36 that is CNC machined and replacement parts were readily available. I have one but do not shoot it. I only shoot a few steel framed revolvers in my Pietta .36 collection.

Regards,

Jim
Thanks, Jim, for the information. I was curious about the manufacturer too, so that question was answered as well. I will post a picture of the front of the recoil shield., but it sounds as though the repair just isn't worth it. Just so I have a shooter, I picked up a Pietta Old West 1851 with the patina. It looks and feels like the G & G. I noticed on the Pietta that the wedge is installed at an angle through the slot in the barrell and arbor. When viewed from above, the wedge is oriented not at 270-90 deg, but more like 280-100 degs. When I disassembled it for oil removal I had to take a soft hammer to the wedge and managed to shear off the pin for the spring, but the barrel opening (front site) side of the wedge was galled, implying the wedge was hammered in with some force. There is misalignment between the slots in the arbor and the barrel. I filed some of the forward end of the arbor slot in an attempt to match the slots and tapped the wedge back in after cleaning. The wedge is firmly in place and if the spring is needed I'll order a replacement pin. During a visit to Cabelas, where I bought this pistol, there were more in the display case propped on their sides with a dowel through the trigger guard, and every one of the wedges was driven in at that same angle.
 
Back
Top