Preparing a barrel for browning

[Devodud]

Quick question for you guys. How fine a grit should I sand my barrel to before browning it?

I am using LMF Browning and I am looking for a fairly smooth finish, not one that looks to have been sitting in a barn for 100 years.

I have currently gone to 120.....

 

[tenngun]

If you want a real super smooth barel you need to draw file. Have a fine file and lay it 90 deggrees to the flat, and draw it slowly toward you making sure you dont move sideways at all. It will leave a glass like smooth. Youhave to be very careful as your brown wont adhear to the supper smooth surface as well. When putting the solution on go with just a lightly damp cotton ball. it can bloch real easy on a very smooth surface. Only lay your brown on in the same direction you drew your file, go very slow, once a day or two even or it can get a coppery look in places. Going to a superfine 600 grit emery will still leave some roughness, but will hold on to the brown solution better. You will still need to lay on one direction.
I love brown and think it the best looking, however most brown guns stared out blue or in the white, and picked ud thier brown at the same time they picked up a little roughness.

 

[fleener]

depends on how fine of a rust brown finish you want. If it is going to be an aggressive finish you do not need to go past 220. If you want a smoother finish, I would go to 400.

If you go slow on the browning and not let it sit for so long to work between applications, your finish will be a little finer

The smoother finish, the longer it will take. 10 applications are certainly not too many depending on what you are dealing with for finish and humidity.

Fleener

 

[Crewdawg445]

tenngun is absolutely right, you'll need to draw file the barrel. A tedious process but worth the efforts and patience. The majority of this hobby requires patience, finishing IMO requires the most and it's very obvious if you rush or cut corners... So, take it slow and steady and you'll certainly end up winning the race. :thumbsup:

 

[Spikebuck]

If you want a smoother finish, I would go to 400.

That is what I did to get a smooth finish. Then I just followed the directions on the LMF Brown to the letter, except that I did degrease before starting even though it says you don't have to.

I used a small bathroom as my "humidity box" by keeping a small heater in there with the room at 85 degrees. I had a bucket of water with rags in it hanging out and on occasion ran the shower just enough to steam a bit, but not get condensation.

 

[b737tvc]

What did you use for degreaser?


BT

 

[Spikebuck]

Rubbing Alcohol. And always wore latex gloves during the browning process.

 

[don hepler]

LMF is so simple, that you really don't have to do much to prepare the metal. I removed the bluing on a barrel and put LMF on it and it rusted just fine. It would rust a little and I wiped it down with a piece of canvas cloth, then add more LMF, and let it sit again. How much you let it rust, will determine the finish. If it rusts to much, then sand it back smooth, but better if you control the rusting. The canvas or denium cloth will let you remove the scale and smooth out the finish, without going back to the white. Practice on some scrap pieces. When you get the finish that you like, scrub it down with baking soda, and then apply a heavy coat of oil. Watch it for a couple of days before you assemble it.

I didn't use a sweat box, and the finish was as smooth as a factory barrel when I started. Practice on a small part, before going to the barrel.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Ooo, very nice!

 

[b737tvc]

Being in the south you might not need a bathroom with high moisture, just set it out side....on one of those humid days.

BT :idunno:

 

[Vaino]

Most bbls need draw filing to get rid of the machining marks and then a light rub w/ 220 grit paper....the LMF "wets" better w/ a coarser grit.

What do you mean by "smooth"? LMF will not yield a smooth finish as does a hot brown....the surface will be somewhat etched w/ LMF. If the right amount of humidity is present, if the time between coats doesn't allow pitting and if carded properly, a slightly etched, matte surface will be the result. This is nowhere near a finish that has pits and looks like it stood in some corner of a barn.

Actually LMF is quite easy to use, but some adjustments might have to be made on rusting times depending on humidity. I use a "sweat box" for increased humidity and 36 hrs are req'd for a brown w/ the color and texture I prefer.

Also....household ammonia really neutralizes the LMF which doesn't "kill" that easily.

Below are some examples of LMF browning which have a slightly etched, matte finish w/ nice color. The upper is "plum brown" whereas the lower is darker...shows the range that can be achieved.....Fred

 

[Dane]

If you allow a few more coats, it will turn from red to plum brown like Fred's.

 

[Devodud]

Thanks for the info gentlemen.

I'm not looking for a piece og brown glass here, I just don't want the rough pitted look I have seen some guys go for when trying to make the gun look old.

The examples you guys gave are exactly the end product I want!

 

[Devodud]

The barrel was quite rough requiring tons of draw filing. One flat had some real deep machining marks. After that I sanded 80, 100, 120. I am now going to go to 220 and continue with the process.

 

[Rifleman1776]

it can bloch real easy

REALLY??? :shocked2:

:wink: DAMHIK!

 

[nhmoose]

140 grit as finest IMHO

 

[Zonie]

If I plan on using LMF Browning I don't sand the barrel with anything finer than 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

I've found that using grits finer than that result in areas of the degreased barrel not accepting the browning solution. In other words, the solution fails to 'bite' into the metal, even with multiple applications.

 

[M. De Land]

I draw file all barrels round or octagon, block sand 240 then 320 to remove all file marks.
I then sand blast with 70 grit garnet sand followed by glass beads.
I use this finish for all Niedner rust bluing, charcoal case coloring and LMF browning.
It has proven to be the best finish I have yet come up with for any of the above processes.

 

[Vaino]

After the browning has been completed, the final carding has been done and the process neutralized, a light rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool saturated w/ oil or waxes will darken the color. A good wipe and a final coat of whatever one uses for metal surfaces really enhances the color. The etched, matte surface "captures" whatever has been applied.

A neutralized, browned surface is "dead" rust and only needs infrequent lubing. I handle my browned MLers and don't lube them and they don't rust.

A very "wetable" surface for browning can be had if toilet bowl cleaner is applied and let stand until a slight etch is apparent. I no longer use it because the color is too dark for my liking....Fred

 

[Devodud]

After the browning has been completed, the final carding has been done and the process neutralized, a light rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool saturated w/ oil or waxes will darken the color. A good wipe and a final coat of whatever one uses for metal surfaces really enhances the color. The etched, matte surface "captures" whatever has been applied.

A neutralized, browned surface is "dead" rust and only needs infrequent lubing. I handle my browned MLers and don't lube them and they don't rust.

A very "wetable" surface for browning can be had if toilet bowl cleaner is applied and let stand until a slight etch is apparent. I no longer use it because the color is too dark for my liking....Fred

What kind of oil are you using when you do the steel wool rub at the end?