Perc. To flint

[Crow#21957]

I'm seriously thinking I will change one of my perc. Guns to flint. Looks like the plates are almost just a swap. Just some work around the pan maybe. Then I would need to plug the drum hole in the barrel and install white lightning liner or drill a flash hole.
I just don't want to have to do to much wood rework and make it look like a mess.
Anyone got tips. Have you actually done this. How did it turn out?

 

[The Appalachian]

My last build is a switch ignition. I built the rifle first with a large Siler percussion lock, and made it function as it should.
The next step was purchasing an L&R replacement flint lock that's supposed to be a drop in replacement for the large Siler. It was very close, but the plate wasn't an exact fit. I had to build up metal in a few places with the welder, and trim down others to make it fit the exact inlet for the large Siler. Some would have lived with the tiny gaps, I couldn't.
When placing/installing the flint lock the threaded bolster hole became sacred ground and located my flashole liner and the pan, and thus the lock.
It was fussy to a point but it worked out. I can remove two lock screws and the lock, and either install a bolster or a flashole liner.
If I were to convert one, one way or the other, I would use the same principles I used on that rifle. Even to the point of welding on the lock plate to make it fit the inlet if that was necessary.

 

[Crow#21957]

That's what I needed.Did the flash hole end up in the sunset position that we like to see. Do you think a siler percusion would have eliminated the needed welding? Your response helps alot.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

I've done several. If the locks are the same model, usually its a fairly painless swap. The pan usually lines up where it's supposed to, or at least it has for me.

If you are upgrading a production gun with an L&R RPL lock, you will need to make room for the larger mainspring.

 

[The Appalachian]

That's what I needed.Did the flash hole end up in the sunset position that we like to see. Do you think a siler percusion would have eliminated the needed welding? Your response helps alot.

First question, yes, and that's what requisitioned some of the welding on the plate as it related to the inlet.

Second question, a large Siler percussion is what I started with and inlet the stock for. A Siler flint wasn't available at the time I was building this rifle, the L&R was. As stated it's billed as a direct replacement. Most would have made tiny wood adjustments to make it fit, I chose to leave my wood alone and add/remove metal to fit the wood. I'm a welder/fabricator by union trade so this wasn't any big deal in my home shop.

Video is the first test fire with the flint lock and you can clearly see it works just fine.

 

[Crow#21957]

Oh ya that was fast.Im same as you. Although I'm not a welder but 40 yrs HVAC alot of torch time. If I add metal it's with my small acety/oxy. I understand a lock not being available. You done great from what I see. Thanks for the input. This has been a great help

 

[Crow#21957]

Thankyou too Dusty Travler
With both of you guys commenting I feel good about going ahead when I'm ready. Soon I hope.

 

[SDSmlf]

I have switched a couple of TCs from percussion to flint, though I switched out the breech plug, but that doesn’t sound like what you are considering.

I have a Pedersoli Scout in 32 caliber, and I have both the flint and percussion lock for it. Changeover takes but a few minutes, and I have had no issues shooting either configuration.

Going from factory percussion to flint will require precise placement of components, but doable. It may be easier to replace the entire lock if the OEM offered both, without much adjustment, the reason I mentioned the Pedersoli Scout.

 

[The Appalachian]

Oh ya that was fast.Im same as you. Although I'm not a welder but 40 yrs HVAC alot of torch time. If I add metal it's with my small acety/oxy. I understand a lock not being available. You done great from what I see. Thanks for the input. This has been a great help

If I had my choice it wouldn't be oxy/acetylene. Too much heat soak to accomplish the task. I would even hesitate with TiG for the same reason. I did this work with a MiG and spotted my build up on, trying to keep the plate as cool as possible.

 

[Snydly]

I'm seriously thinking I will change one of my perc. Guns to flint. Looks like the plates are almost just a swap. Just some work around the pan maybe. Then I would need to plug the drum hole in the barrel and install white lightning liner or drill a flash hole.
I just don't want to have to do to much wood rework and make it look like a mess.
Anyone got tips. Have you actually done this. How did it turn out?

Have done it twice. Called Dixie Gunworkds, Told them what I wanted to do. They asked what rifle I had, told them it was a Pedersoli Blue Ridge rifle in 54 cal. They told me exactly what I needed and told me there would not be any alterations necessary. Removed the lock, removed the drum and bolster.. Inserted the new flash hole liner, Installed the new "flint lock". That was many years ago and it works flawlessly. My elk rifle.