Mis-firing "Replica Arms" box lock

[Uncle Will]

Recently purchased a used Replica Arms, "Wesson" style, box lock .45 cal rifle. Pretty gun but it's habit of misfiring renders it useless. The few times I've actually fired it was by dumping some FFFFg down the nipple. Haven't been able to remove the nipple due to limited space arond the nipple base (none of my wrenchs fit). Any suggestions?

 

[napolean]

You may have to "modify" a wrench to get to the nipple. If you plan on keeping the rifle you will need one that fits anyway. If you could post a close up photo of the nipple and snail or bolster area some of the guys here may have better suggestions.
Jon D

 

[J.D.]

Have you tried a nipple wrench for a revolver?
http://www.logcabinonline.com/index1.html

here is an assortment of nipple wrenches. One of them might work.
http://possibleshop.com/s-s-nipple-wrench.html

God bless

 

[ohio ramrod]

You will need a thin walled nipple wrench like used on revolvers, or grind down the outside edge of one to fit. This will give you a weak wall subject to splitting if forced so I suggest you soak the nipple seat area well with kroil penatrating oil first. If practicle I recommend plugging the nipple with a disposable ear plug held in place by the hammer, putting the kroil in the barrel and letting the rifle stand in the cornor over night.

 

[paulvallandigham]

The most common causes of misfires with percussion guns are the wrong size nipple/cap combination, and a poor alignment between the FACE of the hammer, and the top of the nipple. Worn nipples can cause the latter problem to show up after only a few shots.

Best advice is whenever you acquire a NEW-to- You percussion gun, Change the nipple for a new one.

Then, put some lipstick, or marking dye( lampblack works) on the top edge of the nipple. Lower the hammer to mark the face where it touches the top of the nipple. IF YOU DON'T see a full circle of dye on the face of the hammer( Inside the skirt) You need to grind off the part that is marked by the dye, retest, and regrind until you have a full ring showing on the face of the hammer.

With a full ring- indicates that your hammer is striking the cap completely onto the top of the nipple--- you will have positive ignition, PROVIDED, you use the correct sized caps for that nipple.

CAUTION: Nipples come in different diameters, and different heights above the shoulder, as well as different lengths of threads, and thread sizes. Most of us didn't know that, and thought if we got the thread Pitch correct, that was all we needed to replace our existing nipple. WRONG!

Most percussion rifles use a #11, Standard percussion cap. The "Magnum" caps were designed to ignite Substitute powders, which need the hotter caps, because the substitute powders burn at much higher temperatures than does Black Powder.

There are still replica muskets and military style rifles that come with a larger nipple, designed to use MUSKET caps. Musket caps are distinguished by the " WINGS " that flare off the end of them. They come in 4 and 6 wing styles, depending on manufacturer.

#10 percussion caps are intended to be used on most reproduction revolvers. Always ASK your dealer if the caps you are buying are correct for the model handgun you are shooting. There are many suppliers shown here under the Links section that are very helpful to callers with questions about percussion nipples, wrenches, caps, etc. for a particular model gun or action. Never hesitate to use their Toll Free phone numbers to ask them what they recommend you buy for your gun.

I personally agree with the recommendation to try the nipple wrenches made to remove revolver nipples. They are smaller in diameter and may be able to fit into the space provided in that "Wesson" lock to let you turn out the existing nipple. Break Free, and Liquid Wrench, along with simple Kerosene, can be used instead of KROIL, to dissolve the crud that might be holding a nipple in the bolster, letting you unscrew and remove it. There is also a newer product, called Evaporust, that may be available at Auto Zone Stores.

 

[napolean]

Uncle Will,
I didn't ask in my first post, but assumed that the nature of your misfires is that the cap fires and doesn't ignite the main charge. If that is the case, it's probably due to poor cleaning practices by a previous owner. To properly clean the breech area, it would be best to remove the nipple. On my Navy arms Box lock, the hammer throw is short and a "normal" length wrench doesn't clear the hammer nose, so I bought the shortest bodied wrench I could find. Until I found one I made do with a small Ignition type end wrench. I'm not familiar with your particular rifle but finding a way to pump some soap & water through the breech will clean that area. I'm thinking that some of the Wesson types have a removable side plate on the breech block on the off side that may make removing the hammer easy, then a normal wrench may work.
If the cause of your misfires is the cap not firing then Paul pretty much summed up the most common cause and remedy.
Jon D

 

[Uncle Will]

Thanks for all the advice, it took a good soaking with "PB Blaster" (applied two evenings straight) and some light tapping with a hammer and a pin punch to break loose a bunch of crud around the base of the nipple and finally get the nipple out. Much more gunk/crud below nipple, tomorrow I'll flush out the barrel and snail with hot water followed by high pressure air. I have a new nipple to install and then perhaps, I'll be able to take it to the range on Tue.
Thanks again to each and all!
Uncle Will

 

[ohio ramrod]

When installing the new nipple coat the threads with a drop of oil ,or better yet a smear of "anti-size" available from any auto parts store. This will make future removals much easier.