• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

LeMat Revolver

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have a Hawes 1860 Army that looks brand new. When they bored the barrel they didn't remove the circular boring grooves the whole length of the barrel before rifling it. So you have boring marks with rifling over them. Amazing how these get through inspection and quality control. The other parts are worth what I paid for it but kept it as is as a curiosity. Must have been the last one off the line on Friday and they were in a hurry to get home.

Tool marks across the tops of the lands are evidence that the barrel was reamed with a dull or damaged reamer, or without sufficient lubrication. Most makers don't bother to lap or smooth the original reamed bore before rifling, but really rough lands are evidence of poor quality control. Tool marks in the grooves can be longitudinal, due to the condition of the rifling cutter (or maintenance and/or operation issues), or, if they appear across the groove bottom, due to chatter of a dull cutter or one operated incorrectly. Neither condition should be present in a correctly made barrel - but, as discussed, quality control appears to be a sometime thing in many Italian reproduction firearms.

mhb - MIke; barrel maker, retired
 
I have an original Lemat 3rd version (centerfire) pistol that I am planning on shooting as soon as I figure out the shotshell to use. After measuring, it appears that mine is chambered for a 24g shotshell so I am working to get a plastic shell as the brass ones dont go in past 1/2 inch. Anyway, I got the 11mm French ammo for the revolver so as soon as I get the grapeshot part figured out, I will head to the range.
 
Several years ago, a friend who has now Gone West had a very nice (in appearance) reproduction LeMat. He wasn't satisfied with the accuracy, though it functioned perfectly. I inspected it and discovered that the .44 barrel had NEVER BEEN RIFLED. The importer/distributor would not replace it, and the manufacturer wasn't interested, either. An example of a known syndrome with Italian reproductions: if it looks good, it's good enough. Dolce far niente...
Just a cautionary tale - Caveat Emptor.

mhb - MIke
Robert Hoyt can probably line the barrel. I assume this would work with a revolver barrel...
 
Even if I were not in the UK, I doubt I would be tempted to shoot mine.View attachment 232393

Your LeMat appears to be in exceptional condition with most of its original finish.
Being an avid hunter & antique arms collector over the past 60+ years my personal firearms showed some use & were well cared for as to not degrade their condition while I owned them. Many had been neglected & gathering dust so I was able to save them for another generation to enjoy.
Any I acquired in mint or near mint condition were sold to museums or collectors who just display them.
If I was fortunate to be the caretaker of this fine LeMat I would be sorely tempted to fire it on a limited basis as I've never owned one.
Relic shooter
 
Owners of all the repro LeMat revolvers I've spoken with have been very unhappy as none functioned properly.
I recently turned down a mint repro LeMat at a local gun show for $500.00 with an extra cylinder. The seller stated he had bought the extra cylinder to see if it would fix the indexing malfunction but no luck.
Could be most or all of the cylinders on the repros were improperly machined ?
 
I've had two Pietta. Both were off timing. The holes in the cylinder didn't line up with the pin, off setting the barrel to cylinder lineup. And the hammer had a wobble and hit to the left. I didn't check any of this before firing. I used .452 balls. First shot I had a chain fire. Each chamber on each side. I removed the cylinder and tapped it on a piece of wood, balls came out. Was going to try .454s but took too much muscle to get them in. Took it home and dissadembled it. That's when I found the issue with timing. I saw no way of fixing it. If anyone has took one apart, they know what I'm talking about. Well I sold it and told the buyer the problem with timing and hammer. Bought another one and it was the same thing. I sold it also. Bought me a Dennix and hung it on the wall.
 
I wonder if it is simply a really difficult piece to reproduce. it seems like the originals were also plagued with problems. Apparently the first 150 were hand made and gifted to generals and other important people. those units apparently worked well enough to get a contract. Once they actually went into production they had a plethora of problems.
 
Could you elaborate on this?
The cylinder lock is a pin that comes out from the right side of the recoil shield, it enters into the cylinder and locks it into full cock. I couldn't find any way of correcting it.
 

Attachments

  • 20240125_073929.jpg
    20240125_073929.jpg
    35.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 20240125_074021.jpg
    20240125_074021.jpg
    21 KB · Views: 0
  • Screenshot_20240125-073835_Firefox.jpg
    Screenshot_20240125-073835_Firefox.jpg
    139.1 KB · Views: 0
The cylinder lock is a pin that comes out from the right side of the recoil shield, it enters into the cylinder and locks it into full cock. I couldn't find any way of correcting it.
Dang, I see, definitely a nuisance. Thanks for the photos as well. Did you have trouble re-assembling the mainspring? A poster from earlier said he had great difficulty doing so.
 
Dang, I see, definitely a nuisance. Thanks for the photos as well. Did you have trouble re-assembling the mainspring? A poster from earlier said he had great difficulty doing so.
You know what, I don't remember. Was back in September 2020. When they were like $400 to $500. I did get it back together though.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240125-102736_Facebook.jpg
    Screenshot_20240125-102736_Facebook.jpg
    595.8 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
You know what, I don't remember. Was back in September 2020. When they were like $400 to $500. I did get it back together though.
Wow, those were the days to buy one. You can't buy a used one for less than a grand now. I paid $1150 for mine haha. Anyway, I took a look down my bore and the rifling is there thankfully, but there's a small dent/chip in the middle of the barrel. Should I replace it? I'll try to upload a photo later.
 
Wow, those were the days to buy one. You can't buy a used one for less than a grand now. I paid $1150 for mine haha. Anyway, I took a look down my bore and the rifling is there thankfully, but there's a small dent/chip in the middle of the barrel. Should I replace it? I'll try to upload a photo later.
That doesn't sound good. But then again, most all the pressure is in the cylinder and some escapes at the cylinder/barrel gap. But if you ever get a squib, that could mean some trouble.
 
I've had two Pietta. Both were off timing. The holes in the cylinder didn't line up with the pin, off setting the barrel to cylinder lineup. And the hammer had a wobble and hit to the left.
Unfortunately, after-checking my hammer is also off timing. Since mine was made in 1986, it checks out with the old Piettas having issues. I'm not sure if it was you or not, but a forum-member who said he's been a gunsmith for 50 years couldn't figure out what to do about this timing issue. Is there a chance I can find a local gunsmith who might be able to do something about it or is it over?
 
Unfortunately, after-checking my hammer is also off timing. Since mine was made in 1986, it checks out with the old Piettas having issues. I'm not sure if it was you or not, but a forum-member who said he's been a gunsmith for 50 years couldn't figure out what to do about this timing issue. Is there a chance I can find a local gunsmith who might be able to do something about it or is it over?
Not sure if it's the location of the pin, or the holes in the cylinder. Unless there's something I'm not seeing, I see no way to fix the issue.
 
I have just now discovered this thread and would like to establish contact with other Lemat owners.

My gun (Serial #1937) is an original 2nd Model manufactured in Paris in early 1864. Documentation exists showing delivery (by blockade runner) to the Port of Wilmington, NC May-July 1864 and subsequent issue to 6th Texas Cavalry.

Apologies for no pics but I am only semi computer literate and don't have the first clue how to post pictures...
 
Back
Top