Leather Canteen

[Einsiedler]

Absolutely. Young son archaeologist and I have expounded on this for hours! Even the children! It is excellent food!!

His "sorta" part time job is working at a local craft brewery!

 

[Black Hand]

Never really had any issues the parrifin either. It's soaked right into the inside.

I have a gourd canteen that I made about 15 years ago (that I haven't used more than a couple times in the last 10 years since I made the leather canteen) that I had to re-line with beeswax because the paraffin started flaking-off. Now, I had warmed the gourd in the oven to ensure full penetration, coated the interior with wax and heated in the oven 10-15 minutes for the wax to penetrate. Ultimately, as I mentioned, the paraffin wax failed. Don't know why, but it did...

 

[George]

I had the same happen to a tin canteen lined with paraffin wax after a few years.

I followed the common knowledge when I got into this hobby and lined all my canteens, but after a time of actually using them I decided it was unnecessary and a waste of time and effort. I can understand doing it with leather canteens, but what do you think is actually the requirement for doing it with gourd or metal ones?

Spence

 

[Black Hand]

I had the same happen to a tin canteen lined with paraffin wax after a few years.

I followed the common knowledge when I got into this hobby and lined all my canteens, but after a time of actually using them I decided it was unnecessary and a waste of time and effort. I can understand doing it with leather canteens, but what do you think is actually the requirement for doing it with gourd or metal ones?

Spence

With gourd canteens, I believe it increases the life by impregnating the porous interior and not allowing moisture to linger in the pith. I suspect this residual moisture causes the gourd to degrade and eventually fail. I understand gourds are disposable, but at $15 for an average canteen-sized gourd in my state, I'd like to get the most use from a gourd.

With metal canteens, the wax protects the metal from residual moisture and may delay/prevent the formation of rust, thereby increasing the life of your investment.

 

[Einsiedler]

Never really had any issues the parrifin either. It's soaked right into the inside.

I have a gourd canteen that I made about 15 years ago (that I haven't used more than a couple times in the last 10 years since I made the leather canteen) that I had to re-line with beeswax because the paraffin started flaking-off. Now, I had warmed the gourd in the oven to ensure full penetration, coated the interior with wax and heated in the oven 10-15 minutes for the wax to penetrate. Ultimately, as I mentioned, the paraffin wax failed. Don't know why, but it did...

Yeah, the only thing I can speculate on is I really roughed up the interior of the gourd when cleaning. Really pithy on inside (as mentioned) and the pores were really open and dry. Poured the melted parrifin in and shook it all around. It just sucked right up to the inside. Like I say mere speculation on my part. Who knows?? Also here it stays pretty warm and humid year round. Dunno if that may have anything to do with it. Winters here not near as severe as y'all's.

 

[George]

I have two gourd canteens which are 20 years old and going strong, so if your idea of degradation from moisture in the pith is right, it's a very slow process. :grin:

My experience with metal canteens and wax seemed to work just the opposite. After a few years the wax cracked and water got under it, caused a lot of rust, even though I am always very careful to let my canteens dry unstoppered. After the rust problem, I removed the wax, no problems since.

Even if a metal canteen rusts a little, it won't hurt you. Iron is good for your blood. :haha:

Spence

 

[tenngun]

I told my leather canteen story at the begging and how it broke on me.i wonder if the fact that I used paraffin effected it?

 

[LRB]

Not likely. You probably just overheated the leather. Ideally, leather should not be heated much over 170°. More than that temp range and it begins cooking. It only takes about 140° to 150° to harden the leather if you start with well dampened leather, then bake until fully dry. "cuir Bouilli", the safe way. Most beeswax melts at about 170°, which is about the border line temp without causing damage to the leather, when applied for short term. Too long at that temp, and you will do damage.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

And another excuse to homebrew! I have 52 12-oz. bottles of a Copper Ale carbonating in the closet now - usually takes two weeks. Should be good next weekend.

If you use extracts to brew, it will take 3 to 4 hours to brew and a month to finish most beers (2-weeks in a fermenter and 2-weeks in the bottle). Stouts often take longer in the bottle.

If you do it entirely with grain (all-grain brewing - no extracts), expect to spend 6 or more hours on brew day. Everything else remains the same.

I just bought some Chinook hop rhizomes I'll be planting outside. Since they are originally from this area, they should do well. May be able to harvest a few this year and will definitely be able to use them in my home brewing next year.

Now just have to make a jackware canteen for my beer!

Twisted_1in66 :hatsoff:
Dan

 

[Black Hand]

Image of the jackware canteen I made and carry.

https://imgbb.com/

 

[Artificer]

That sure is a Dandy one! Is the plug wood and if so, what wood did you make it from?

Gus

 

[Black Hand]

The spout has a wood collar (I've used Cottonwodd with great success) for shape and support - also has a round hole for a tight fit (The collar allows me to seal the spout opening tightly and not fight leaks that happen when a cork is inserted directly into the leather opening). The cork was salvaged from a Capt. Morgan Private Stock bottle - has a cork fitted with a wood cap, heat the wood and the cork is easily removed. I have saved all the corks I could - they are shorter and of smaller diameter that wine corks due to a slight taper. You can see a portion of the cork to the left of the picture (follow the string), though most is hidden by the canteen.

 

[Artificer]

Thank you for the description. I have never used cottonwood as it is not local to any area I have lived. I found that particularly interesting.

Gus

 

[Black Hand]

I used Fir on the first one I made (and still carry), but it has cracked a few times and was repaired with superglue. Cottonwood, while light, is tough and stringy and appears to hold up better. In your area, Cottonwood might be called Poplar...

 

[Artificer]

Very interesting. I looked it up and both cottonwood and poplar are members of the Populus genus. Never thought about using poplar, as I don't work with it a lot except for drawer spacers. GOOD Tip. Thank you.

Gus

 

[Black Hand]

The main reason I used Cottonwood was that I had picked up a Beaver-chewed branch by the river while walking the dog. Put it to good use.

That said, I've used Cottonwood for a couple of trenchers, a large serving spoon and several cups...

 

[Frozenwinter]

I prefer to do as our ancient brethren and drink beer. Because they didn't trust the water anymore than I do!!! That's one of the reasons it was brewed! It was cleaner than the water!!! And they knew it!

But that's only a minor reason. They knew how to get good water. the real main reason they drank so much beer is because it's food. Beer contains a lot of calories and, though they did not understand what Vitamin B was, they recognised that it was nutritious.

There is actually a neat documentary that touches on that. Its called "How Beer Saved the World"
worth a watch if you ever come across it.

 

[tenngun]

In the 'Fighting kings of Wessex' the author said all of Westren civilization was a conflict between societies of wine and societies of beer :haha:

 

[jrmflintlock]

My problem is I don't like warm beer! :v

Not to mention it flat Beer!!