Kentucky Kit Considerations

[James802]

1st Kit: not super impressed however when I called they agreed to send me a new sear (see pic) as it was bent to such a degree that the trigger does not disengage for the ability to fire. I plan on heating it to attempt to bend it, going slow but do realize a new one is coming:
2nd issue: in order to line up the nose cap with the barrel holes, there is significant gap at the joint plate (I did not sand the ends of either the main stock and forearm , nor remove wood from the end near the nose cap) my thoughts are 1: drill new holes for the brass cap 2 : order a second brass joint plate as the gap is about the thickness of the space between the two pieces , then simply sand the metal to fit if uneven. Thoughts ?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Is the barrel setting back into the stock fully? That of course if the lock inlet will allow the barrel to line up. These kits are often a challenge to work with, I wish you luck.

 

[Squatch84]

That kit doesn't even look like it went through QC.
Are the dowels that go into the stock and the brass spacer bottoming out? The easiest fix for that is to just drill a bit deeper so that the dowels go in all the way and the spacer butts up even.
The end cap is more challenging because there is no adding wood back.
I would honestly just try to exchange it for another kit the sear alone is enough to warrant that, less frustration down the road.
If you don't I would just purchase a new cap from track of the wolf or another store that is longer and drill for that like this.

 

[James802]

Is the barrel setting back into the stock fully? That of course if the lock inlet will allow the barrel to line up. These kits are often a challenge to work with, I wish you luck.

Yes it is

 

[James802]

That kit doesn't even look like it went through QC.
Are the dowels that go into the stock and the brass spacer bottoming out? The easiest fix for that is to just drill a bit deeper so that the dowels go in all the way and the spacer butts up even.
The end cap is more challenging because there is no adding wood back.
I would honestly just try to exchange it for another kit the sear alone is enough to warrant that, less frustration down the road.
If you don't I would just purchase a new cap from track of the wolf or another store that is longer and drill for that like this.View attachment 62629View attachment 62630

The dowels are fully seated. When I piece the two together tight, the nose cap, wood and drilled holes on the barrel doesn’t line up. Were I to line them up then I have that large gap where to two stock pieces join. I personally don’t mind the look of the brass plate, so adding another and then sanding down to mirror each other wouldn‘t look too bad. Your suggestion of a new longer nose cap might do the trick. The sear on the other hand is frustrating. I sent a pic and called and the company agreed to send me a new one, but I was told 60 days due to high demand COVID etc.... I am going to heat it up and ever so gently attempt to tap it to the proper angle. I realize this is all part of the “fun” bonding process. The gun is destined for a antelope hunt this fall in WY so.... looking forward to getting her up to speed

 

[SDSmlf]

I plan on heating it to attempt to bend it, going slow

May have to anneal and reharden to bend without breaking or softening the working surface of the sear if you just heat it up.

 

[kje54]

1st Kit: not super impressed however when I called they agreed to send me a new sear (see pic) as it was bent to such a degree that the trigger does not disengage for the ability to fire. I plan on heating it to attempt to bend it, going slow but do realize a new one is coming:
2nd issue: in order to line up the nose cap with the barrel holes, there is significant gap at the joint plate (I did not sand the ends of either the main stock and forearm , nor remove wood from the end near the nose cap) my thoughts are 1: drill new holes for the brass cap 2 : order a second brass joint plate as the gap is about the thickness of the space between the two pieces , then simply sand the metal to fit if uneven. Thoughts ?

You're not the only one receiving guns and kits that look like they were pulled out of the bottom of the supply barrel, seconds made by trainees that probably were never meant to be sold. There are a few here who have received less than quality items, I've just started on a Pendersoli Pennsylvania longrifle kit, roughest Pendersoli kit I have ever seen that I doubt would have made it through QC a year ago.

 

[outbackzack]

I'm working a Traditions Kentucky kit right now, my frustration with fit just went out the window. Have you considered a contrasting hardwood spacer instead of the brass spacer in the stock? This is my fallback plan.

 

[James802]

I'm working a Traditions Kentucky kit right now, my frustration with fit just went out the window. Have you considered a contrasting hardwood spacer instead of the brass spacer in the stock? This is my fallback plan.

I had not considered that. Personally I like the brass spacer , I know some do not. The annoyance is I’m dead in the water until I get the new sear and figure out this spacing joint issue

 

[sportster73hp]

May i ask what brand the kit is? Just curious. In the past i have just repaired used stuff. Working on restocking one from a plank now.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Where are you in Vermont? I am in Randolph.

dave

 

[James802]

May i ask what brand the kit is? Just curious. In the past i have just repaired used stuff. Working on restocking one from a plank now.

Traditions

 

[James802]

Hi,
Where are you in Vermont? I am in Randolph.

dave

Colchester

 

[rafterob]

I would go the wood spacer route.

 

[James802]

I would go the wood spacer route.

I called the company, they were aware of the issue said the brass plates have been too thin and are sending another (60-90 days)

 

[Tumbledown]

Look at my posts here, I've built 2 of these. No spacer, new nose cap.

 

[Tumbledown]

I called the company, they were aware of the issue said the brass plates have been too thin and are sending another (60-90 days)

That looks like more than a plate issue. The plate looks fine to me. My first look would be to see if the barrel can go back further, even if it means removing wood at the breech, so long as the hammer lines up on the nipple.

 

[Loja man]

Good morning all. This is not building confidence for my near future as I just ordered the traditions Kentucky kit from DGW. Here’s hoping!!
JB67 I am thinking of glueing the stock together without any spacer. I know in your original thread you commented that you used a door component of some kind for the nose cap. Can you be more specific?
Also I am wanting to put a Box on mine. Would appreciate your thoughts as to appropriate style or size.
I really like this style but they seem to be all sold out except for in steel! Which brings the question do I go with a different style or were a steel one will “fit” this rifle when all the other furniture is brass?

 

[Tumbledown]

Good morning all. This is not building confidence for my near future as I just ordered the traditions Kentucky kit from DGW. Here’s hoping!!
JB67 I am thinking of glueing the stock together without any spacer. I know in your original thread you commented that you used a door component of some kind for the nose cap. Can you be more specific?
Also I am wanting to put a Box on mine. Would appreciate your thoughts as to appropriate style or size.
I really like this style but they seem to be all sold out except for in steel! Which brings the question do I go with a different style or were a steel one will “fit” this rifle when all the other furniture is brass?View attachment 63520

I used solid sheet brass to form my nose caps. It was the kickplate for an entry door.

As for the style of capbox, it depends on if you are trying to emulate a certain school, or just going with what looks good. I'd stick with the same metal throughout. If you order that one now, it may be in by the time all your other stock work is done and you're ready to work on it. Or get the steel and swap it when the brass one comes in.

 

[Loja man]

I used solid sheet brass to form my nose caps. It was the kickplate for an entry door.

As for the style of capbox, it depends on if you are trying to emulate a certain school, or just going with what looks good. I'd stick with the same metal throughout. If you order that one now, it may be in by the time all your other stock work is done and you're ready to work on it. Or get the steel and swap it when the brass one comes in.

So with the sheet brass. Did you form it the solder or braze the face piece on to give it the 3-D cast to look?
As far as the capbox. I understand that the Traditions Kentucky rifle is not a match to any particular historic rifle. That said I still would like a capbox that would at least resemble something a Kentucky era rifle would have. If that makes sense?