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Keeping the patent chamber clean

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Joined
Jan 30, 2014
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You guy do anything between shots or when the gun is being misfire stuborn after some shooting?

Every 3rd shot is put a spit patch on a worn out bronze brush with my 54 gpr.
 
Usually when that happens,,
It's an indication that the gun was fired with a little storage or protective oil left in the breech.
It happens,, even a little oil with the heat of burning powder turns the fouling into a hard almost tar like substance.(Bore Butter will do it too!)
The best way I have found to get that out is the pump method with a soup can and a little gasoline, sure people grouse about using gas but you just need enough to flush in/out through the breech not the entire barrel like a water wash.
Just be outside and use care, follow with brake cleaner then soapy water like normal.
I've never used/needed a brush in the breech hole in my life.
If you use oil for storage, you have to use an alcohol cleaning/flush before shooting, no traces of oil.
 
I have several guns with Patent breeches. I don't do anything with that area when shooting and have never had a problem.

When cleaning after shooting I like either the flush system (through nipple or touch hole) OR if not using the flush method, I use an appropriately sized bore mop to get down into the patent breech area to clean it well (usually a .32 or .36 mop).
 
fools sulphur said:
Every 3rd shot is put a spit patch on a worn out bronze brush with my 54 gpr.
That could be a problem too, a cleaning jag has it's shape so that a patch will slide down, then bunch up a little to pull fouling out of the bore.
You might be actually pushing fouling into the fire channel with the patch/brush set up.
 
I keep a rod with a very small dremel tool brush on it that I have flared out the brush. It fits in the small area and cleans out the fouling that builds up in there. I only use the brush after 15 shot or so.

Tip the rifle upside down give a couple of good wacks on the butt and watch the crud fall out. Works great

Fleener
 
Another little trick for percussion guns that I use is to use the brush to shake up the fouling in the patent breech, then I run a patched jag to the breech and fire a cap. The patch catches most of the crud in the patent breech which is then pulled out.
 
Spikebuck said:
I have several guns with Patent breeches. I don't do anything with that area when shooting and have never had a problem.

When cleaning after shooting I like either the flush system (through nipple or touch hole) OR if not using the flush method, I use an appropriately sized bore mop to get down into the patent breech area to clean it well (usually a .32 or .36 mop).

Same here all around. Only difference is in the cleanup at home. Rather than a mop, I just drape a cleaning patch over a 35 caliber brush. What with spinning the brush down in the breech, the patch adheres nicely with no threat of popping free.
 
I believe it is T/C that makes a patent breech cleaning jag.
I made one of my own from brass, on a 8/32 screw.
Inlet black or such on the brass. Push down bbl twist,and remove shiny places on the brass where it rubbed off, repeat.

However, I don't use the thing.
Thought I needed it.
 
Donny said:
However, I don't use the thing.
Thought I needed it.

Hang onto it though. Three times now I've bought used TC's and once a Lyman GPR that had SERIOUS hard crystaline fouling in the patent breeches, even as the bores were fine. No amount of swabbing and soaking would get it out, but with patience that shaped scraper did the job. Got black shavings at first, then some small chunks, then big chunks and they were clean. Looked for all the world like shiny chunks of coal.

On a worthy side note, all of the guns were up for sale due to unreliable ignition. Well..... Duh!!! :rotf:
 
I'm turned off to patent britches..

I will try drying the barrel though.

I get this goop green junk. It might be too much murphys oil soap. It's doin better than the wonderlube patches for now.
 
The only "patent" breeches I'll shoot are those w/ bbl wedges which allow the bbl to be removed and dunked into a bucket of hot water. Never had any problems w/ a "patent breech" when this is done.

The after lube can pose problems...stopped using WD40 because it infiltrates into every nook and cranny and can "kill" a load if not completely removed.

I use a waxy lube that stays put and doesn't migrate into the lowest surface...a couple of snapped caps and the channel and bore are ready for the load.

Out in our elk camp, water is boiled, poured into a bucket and the bbls are cleaned and the patent breeches have never caused a misfire.

Those w/ patent breeches in flintlock rifles....an unnecessary complication....Fred
 
Necchi is right about fouling forming in the patent breach if all of the protective oil is not gotten out before shooting. He chooses to use gasoline to remove it but I do not like to do that because of the fire danger. My usual method for cleaning the bore of my rifle before going to shoot it is to wipe it out with some dry patches and then blowing some compressed air through the nipple or touch hole to blow out any residual oil that the patches didn't get. Then I run another patch down the bore to get those last traces of oil that were blown out by the air. If you have used a protective grease in your bore, such as you might for long term storage, that will not be blown out by the compressed air, I like to spray some automotive break cleaner or carburetor cleaner from the breach to the muzzle with the muzzle sitting on a rag or other absorbent material such as paper towel, etc. This will flush out the last traces of grease and then you just wipe the bore with a dry patch and you are ready to go to the range or woods.

If you feel the need for more vigorous cleaning of a patent breach area, you can get a .32 cal. breach scraper and use it to scrape out the patent breach. Some patent breaches are a bit too small for the .32 cal. breach scraper to fit into. In this case, just chuck your breach scraper in your drill and use a file to turn it down until it fits your patent breach.
 
Before i load my first shot for practice or for hunting i take a tooth pick and plug the vent hole, pour in a little rubbing alcohol and let it sit a minute or so. Take my ramrod with a cleaning patch dampened with rubbing alcohol, start it in the barrel, remove the toothpick and shove the ramrod down the barrel somewhat rapidly to blow out the alcohol through the vent and than dry the bore. An older gentleman taught me this years ago and it has always worked for me providing you start with a clean gun. I have done this on flat face breeches as well and it works great. Remember to keep your between shot cleaning patches just damp, not saturated. This works well for me and maybe it will help you as well. I also drill my vent holes out to 5/64 and when the gun is loaded i can see the powder through the vent hole.
 
My Parker Hale .451 Volunteer, 1st generation rifle, had one on those jolly retched cussed patent britches. I use a bored out cone and plastic hose to pump water through the barrel and britch, then use a .22 cal brush to clean it, .22 jag to wipe it dry. then wipe the rest of the barrel dry as normal, balistol followed by olive oil. Of late after a couple of caps snapped it goes off pretty much right away, or a slight hang fire for the first shot. I wipe between shots, but after powder and wad have been rammed home, so no moisture gets into the britch. I am using a platinum lined nipple, which works fine. I have a W and C Scott double percussion gun with old style type patent britch, this one never gives trouble. I think any oil that might collect will be a problem, I do wipe the britch out before I go to the range.

Cheers

Heelerau
 
My Parker Hale .451 Volunteer, 1st generation rifle, had one on those jolly retched cussed patent britches. I use a bored out cone and plastic hose to pump water through the barrel and britch, then use a .22 cal brush to clean it, .22 jag to wipe it dry. then wipe the rest of the barrel dry as normal, balistol followed by olive oil. Of late after a couple of caps snapped it goes off pretty much right away, or a slight hang fire for the first shot. I wipe between shots, but after powder and wad have been rammed home first, so no moisture gets into the britch. I am using a platinum lined nipple, which works fine. I have a W and C Scott double percussion gun with old style type patent britch, this one never gives trouble. I think any oil that might collect will be a problem, I do wipe the britch out before I go to the range.

Cheers

Heelerau
 
i do not clean the patent breech. Each time the rifle is cleaned the nipple is removed and the fire channel cleaned with a bristled pipe cleaner.

Works for me.
 
Usually when that happens,,
It's an indication that the gun was fired with a little storage or protective oil left in the breech.
It happens,, even a little oil with the heat of burning powder turns the fouling into a hard almost tar like substance.(Bore Butter will do it too!)
The best way I have found to get that out is the pump method with a soup can and a little gasoline, sure people grouse about using gas but you just need enough to flush in/out through the breech not the entire barrel like a water wash.
Just be outside and use care, follow with brake cleaner then soapy water like normal.
I've never used/needed a brush in the breech hole in my life.
If you use oil for storage, you have to use an alcohol cleaning/flush before shooting, no traces of oil.
Thanks for that cleaning tip in the breech chamber, Necchi
 
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