• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Horn Staples, a neophyte question.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Depends on the hornmaker, and what he is trying to do. You see all kinds. On an antiqued horn, a forged staple would be appropriate(PC),

I have seen staples made out of coat hanger wire, heated and pounded square, then twisted to give an ornamental appearance. Just drop the red hot wire into any oil to turn it Black, with a hard finish that stands up well to wear.
 
Just about everything that Paul said, but stay away from the urge of twisting those staples. That is a thing that TOW came out with a few years ago to sell staples! If you think about it, when used in the base of a horn. The twist is covered up anyway and also will weaken and eventually wear through your horn strap or cord like a dull wood file!

Rick
 
I have used finishing nails and clothes-hanger wire pounded square and heated with a propane torch then allowed to cool. Gives them a nice forged look.

Note they work on ball-blocks, too.

IM000565a.jpg
 
Any time you decide to do decorative work, you have to do the WORK! If you leave sharp, 90 degree corners on the edges of the forged square wire, then yes, those sharp edges will abrade the strap.

However, if you use a draw file( teeth run in one direction only)to knock off those sharp edges and round them a bit, you get the flattened decorative effect from twisting the "square" wire( barber's pole stripe) while reducing the amount of metal that contacts you softer leather or fabric strap. AND, the metal that contacts the strap is nicely rounded, and does not abrade.

Is it worth the trouble? That is a debate that goes on whenever decorative art is added to generic tools, and products. I can't answer that question for anyone. :idunno: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
Snow on the Roof said:
Are horn staples just galvanized fence staples? Or are they forged iron?

Snow

What they are made from will vary with the maker. Could be almost anything. I haven't made many horns and none real good, but, for staples on other project, ordinary common nails make a pretty good material. They are soft enuf to pound into shape cold. I use a hunk of railroad track and ball peen hammer.
 
Good info! The reason I inquire, I have come upon a horn of contemporary make which has a pair od eye screws mounted for a strap. Though unattractive the eye screws are functional. I started to wonder if I could use some sort of staple to replace those ugly screws. As always you gents have given me some inspiratin for this little project.

Snow
 
S.kenton said:
Mines just a medium sized steel staple that I heated up and browned..I think you can buy them at Lowes. I didn't heat it up and twist it..nothing fancy..

FENCING STAPLES! ... TOO SHORT!

ALL staples should go entirely through the wood base and where ever it is attached to the horn and then tips crimped or bent over on the inside of the interior BEFORE the horn's butt or base plug is secured on the horn!

I know that this is impossible for a horn that is already put together, but I'm passing this bit of information along for those that are thinking about making a HC/PC type powder horn. The reason for this, is wood and horn over time shrinks, swells and will change it's properties over that time and those just tapped-in or tapped and glued only staples can pull out!.... Also, rounded over staple edges on twisted staples might help a little, but who can see that twist with the strap end covering it anyway?

Just food for thought!

Rick
 
If I recall I read an article a couple of years back- Muzzle Blasts or Muzzleloader, (I forget) inwhich the staple question was addressed and generally fairly thin staples were used-historically- and bent/twisted on the inside.
 
if you want the twisted/forged look, you can buy hardened flooring nails that are already faceted and twisted.
cut off the head, heat 'em red and bend 'em to shape.

Phase30007.jpg
 
I always make my own staples. Coat hanger makes good ones. Just cut a piece about 1-1/2" heat it red with a torch hammer it somewhat square, Bend the ends about 1/2", Heat the middle red and give it a twist. Really look nice and only takes a few minutes.
 
Back
Top