• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Help restoring a CVA Mountain Rifle

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Chris Aversa

32 Cal.
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Hi guys,

Bought a non firing CVA Mountain Rifle from a guy for $50. It looks pretty decent except for the barrel.

1. Light surface rust on the inside which at first glance doesn't appear too bad.
2. Nipple is broken off at the threads in the drum.
3. Drum cleanout screw is stuck to the drum. I tried to unscrew it and the head got buggered a little bit.
4. I would assume that the drum is stuck to the barrel.
5. Actual bore condition is unknown. When i bought it, to my surprise, I found that it had a load and bullet still in it. I'm hoping that the powder being in there for god knows how long hasn't ruined the breech end.


I have a lead on a like new condition barrel from another Mountain Rifle, so it's not catastrophic if I were to lose this one, but if I can salvage this barrel for a backup to the newer one or vice versa, that would be great.

I've read that pulling a drum on the old CVA barrels can be a beast and pulling the breech plug is almost impossible, but with a new barrel possibly coming, if I do screw it up, I'll look at it as a learning experience.

Any advice for a do it yourselfer with a pretty good mechanical aptitude or any good leads to a barrelsmith that can check this out for me?

Thanks in advance.
 
Guess I forgot to mention that. The ball was pulled just a little after I got it home. Even sent the seller a text thanking him for selling me a loaded barrel.
 
First advice DONT pull the breech plug! Second advice soak the broken part heavily with kroil for a few days. (It has been years getting rusted in so don't expect to remove it over night)Third the bore can most likely be salvaged with a good lapping. Drop me a p.m. if you want advice on how to lap a bore. I salvaged on a couple of years back that was in a lot worse condition than you described. It can be done !

005-3.jpg
 
With care that nipple can (probably) be removed. Do not try to remove the other [not]clean out screw. File flat and forget it is there. I would pour hydrogen peroxide down the bore and let it soak for a couple minutes then give a good scrubbing. Bronze scrubbing pad material (not brush) will probably bring that bore back to very good condition.
And, I'll ditto other advice given. DO NOTattempt to remove the drum or breech plug. Proper soaking and scrubbing will be all the 'gunsmithing' you will need.
Let us know how you do.
 
I once removed a snapped off nipple using an easy-out. I believe I had to grind off the tip of the easy-out to make it fit better. You need to CAREFULLY drill out the nipple to get the easy-out in there so it will grab. Worked for me. Bill
 
Good advice here. unfired powder in itself does not damage the bore. Fired powder left in the bore does so since you said light rust I would guess it wasn't left fired and reloaded. You can live without removing the drum cleaning screw. The nipple you have to fix and you can clean through there if you have to. I myself would remove the screw at some point but if you fix the other things you should be on your way.
 
well, just got sniped on ebay at the last second. literally. no new barrel for me. i have tranny fluid and acetone on hand so its started soaking in that. see how that goes and then the kroil or pb blaster if necessary.

might as well start polishing the hardware and cleaning the lock and trigger while i wait.
 
I always try to add this when folks question the CVA Breech. All the cross drilling is what makes it a bad idea to pull that drum(bolster) and or the breech plug,
It's kind of self explanitiory but picutres help alot.

CVA1.jpg
 
Yeah, I have definitely seen this piece of discouragement before.

Now here is a question about it. I have seen replacement drums online for these that don't go through to the other side of the breech plug. They have enough thread on them to make it to right about where "D" is in the photo.

What would be the negative of a drum such as that? They are marketed as direct replacement for all CVA sidelock barrels.
 
Personal Opinion here

Yeah they're available, and folks do use them.
the first issue is because of the hole drilled at "D" the threads of the Bolster are comprimised and can damage the threads in the barrel when it's removed.
Next problem is the nipple hole is predrilled and tapped in the after market drum and that hole seldom lines up properly with the hammer when installed with reasonable torque.

Guy's will either file/grind/mill the shoulder back a little so the nip lines up or have to fabricate some kind of shimm to fit in there.

And either process may work with moderate loads in the rifle used by the installer, only he knows how well the drum is installed.
But sooner or later that rifle will end up in poor sott's hands that just knows he has to use 90-100grns to go hunting, and the higher pressure can/will blow that drun out sideways to become an unexpected projectile headed in an unexpected direction.

All effort should be made to keep the original drum installed
 
Another point is the type of scraper you use to clean the bottom of the bore in the breech area- it needs to be tapered to match or there will be a build up of residue/gunk.
 
Dunno the specs for a CVA drum, but I'd be surprised if one from the array available at The Gun Works isn't right.

Why not just replace the drum and be done with it? You'd be out a whole $3.25.
 
that may be the option depending on how the barrel cleans up after getting the nipple replaced and lapping it. it came as a .50 so i'd like to keep it that way but my hawken is a .50 so .45 may be the way to go.
 
I never try to talk someone out of doing what they want to their guns as only they can decide whether it is worth it. Sometimes it isn't just monetary value but that is a separate issue. On any old Traditions or CVA, you must be careful because you can quickly spend way more than a good, working, fully functioning gun would cost.

I have never owned any early Traditions or CVA anything but I have handled several and, IMHO, the Mountain Rifle is the best model.

You spent $50 and a new barrel is $100? I'd say you are right there and need to stop spending pretty soon.
 
If it comes down to it,you can get a new barrel from Deer Creek as well as any other parts you need. About 5 years ago I bought a new barrel from them for $110. Very accurate!
 
CVA breech plugs are easy to remove--if you have a metal cutting bandsaw. If it were mine I wouldn't even mess with trying to unscrew the plug. I would saw it off in front of the threads and re-breech it adding a new drum afterwords.
 
quick update.


barrel cleaned up much better than expected. still have a little more to go but from what I've read about the forgiveness of the black powder bore, I should have a still huntable barrel. bad part is that upon removing the remnants of the nipple, found that it was crossthreaded in the drum so that is shot.

good news is that after contacting deer creek, found out it will only cost me 45 plus shipping to have a new drum installed. sending it out this week.
 
Wow, $45 is very reasonable for having it done proper.
I do know they install a factory drum and drill it from the muzzle end like it's supposed be,

Wise choice Slim, Thanks for sharing that info, I'll keep it in mind next time I find one that needs swapping out, :grin:
 
Back
Top