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HELP!!! brush came apart!!!

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ss1

40 Cal.
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
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t/c haw. 50cap. brush came apart 3/4 way down barrel. screw part of brush stayed on cleaning rod, rest of brush stayed in barrel.Have tried to epox back on, no go! Filed space between nipple and brush and tried to blow out with co2, no go! Can I shoot it out ? What do you all suggest? thanks in advance. :(
 
ss1 said:
t/c haw. 50cap. brush came apart 3/4 way down barrel. screw part of brush stayed on cleaning rod, rest of brush stayed in barrel.Have tried to epox back on, no go! Filed space between nipple and brush and tried to blow out with co2, no go! Can I shoot it out ? What do you all suggest? thanks in advance. :(
Here's one way:
Take the barrel to a hardware store, and find a thin walled piece of tubing (plastic, copper, etc) that will just barely fit inside the bore.

Take it home and slide it all the way down so it slides past the bristles...this will capture the brush insiude the tubling...then pull the tubing up out of the bore with the brush caught inside it. (At first, the brush will be pushed down to the bottom of the bore until it stops, then you'll be able to firmly slide the tube past it).

In the future:
1) Only buy & use bore brushes that have the bristles in a twisted wire that is also looped through the threaded ramrod attachment end...the ones like you have are simply crimped together at the threaded end and pull loose which is what happened to you;

2) Even then, a new bore brush will try and hang up down bore...if/when this ever happens again, don't simply pull harder...just gently but firmly twist the ramrod clockwise until the bristles get enough curve in them to loosen their grip on the bore walls and then slide it right up the bore.
NOTE:
After a new brush has made a few trips down & up the bore, the ultra sharp bristle tips will get smoothed off a little and no longer hang up.
 
For awhile I used a aluminum shotgun rod for cleaning. The jag with a patch got stuck, because the thread gave out.

I slid some tubing over the drum, with the cleanout screw removed, hose-clamped it, and hooked up to the air compressor, it took 160psi to blow it out, however.
 
IMO, Roundball has the best answer. The only problem is finding a piece of thin wall tubing that is long enough to reach the bottom of the bore.
You may have to pound it down over the brush for it to fully engulf the bristles.

I gave up on using a brush of any kind after getting one stuck in my bore once. :(
 
I had this happen many years ago. Like Zonie I have never used a bronze brush since. I ended up shooting it out. Poured about 10-15 grains of 4F through the cleanout screw and popped it out. Nowdays I would probably use compressed air or Roundball's method.
 
Roundball, are you ever wrong? :grin: .30" chome plated water hookup from LOWES [even had a knot on one end , to push with], it came out so easy , that it was scary. as Roundball said " make sure to use looped end brushes" I think I will keep the 30" tube from LOWES instead of returning it :grin: . Air comp did not have enought ump. Thanks again to all.
 
SS1 good news that you got your brush out. Was wondering what type of shooting you do and why you use a brush? No negative meant. Just trying to learn from people's experiences.
 
Shoot at paper. Don't normanly use a brush. Doing a special cleaning job, looking for any fouling that chemicals and bore light was not showing.Had already completed,[ didnot find any] spotted a brand new brush in box[didnot notice it was build different] "I will do it just one-more-time, with new brush", rest is history.
 
I've never used a brush,only a jag.I'm guessing that a brush is to get that extra fouling out of the grooves?Are there many brush uaers out there?
 
Halftail said:
I've never used a brush,only a jag.I'm guessing that a brush is to get that extra fouling out of the grooves?Are there many brush uaers out there?
A couple dozen strokes with a bore brush is always part of my cleaning regimen...I want to keep my bores at a factory raw bare metal state without allowing a hint of anything to build up in them so I think it's necessary.

And I know from my personal experience that I've thought a bore was clean based upon white patches coming out.....but after a couple dozen brush strokes the patches came out black again with crud from those 90* land/groove corners.

In one of my 32" barrels with 6 lands and 6 grooves, there are 12 - 90* corners running the full length of the bore...that's 32 linear feet of sharp corners where some buildup might start...and I think it asks a lot of a cloth patch on a round jag to scrub those corners squeaky clean every tinme...just my personal view.

So yes, I always include a couple dozen brush strokes after the initial cleaning patches...then keep alternating until the bore is truly 100% clean.

Others mileage may vary of course...
 
In keeping with the subject I had something fun happen yesterday. It was a nice day so went to the range. I wanted to do some offhand shooting at 100 yards with my flinters.

When I got home and was cleaning, my 50 cal cleaning jag broke off right at the shank. I did manage to get the shank out of the cleaning rod. Didn't dodge any bullets on this one, the jag and cleaning patch were right down on the breech face. I can't get any powder behind it or even get any leverage with compressed air. To make it even more fun, it's one of the few barrels I have that I did not install the breech plug. It was already on the barrel when I got it and it's on tight.

I don't know how old the jag was, probably thirty years. This experience has put me off brass shanks on cleaning jags. All the rest of mine have steel shanks but this particular one had brass. Looks like a trip to the gunsmith on Monday.
 
Never understood the need for brushes in a M/L unless you are using those plastic say-bo thingys. A properly fitted jag and a snug piece of material, combined with boiling hot water and a drop or two of Mr' Murphy's finest oil soap is all I've needed to get my bore sparkling.
 
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