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Fg powder

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gungho

36 Cal.
Joined
Jan 1, 2007
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I went to get some powder the other day and when I got home I relized that he had given me a can of FFg and a can of Fg can I use the Fg in my 54cal GPR dont think I can return it and the only place that I can get powder is 2 hrs away
thanks
Gung
 
I don't know from personal experience...however, it should burn OK...probably be more fouling than you're used to...and if you think its too coarse, you can break it down smaller.

For Example...if somebody has some 3F and wanted some 4F size kernels to use for priming, an old trick is to fill a 35mm film canister half full of powder, drop in a lead ball, hold the cap on tight and shake it vigorously for 15-20 seconds.

To handle a larger amount of powder like a full can, you'd probably want to use an approach that processed a larger amount of powder each time than what could be done inside a little 35mm canister.

I won't "tell you to do this"...but I'll tell you what I would do...I'd find a flat smooth dry section of concrete and using a wooden baseball bat, broom handle, rolling pin, etc...I'd spread out a coffee cup amount at a time into a thin layer and roll over it a couple passes...a quick glance would tell me how its size is reducing down. Outdoors would be best, I'd make sure there was no possible extraneous ignition source nearby, etc.

Alternativly...you might have some reenactors in your area who might use it for blanks in their muskets or cannons...maybe you could trade it for 2F or 3F.
 
It will burn OK. You will have to go up 10-15% on your charge weight to maintain the velocity you normally get with 3F. About the only thing I use 1F in is my 10 gauge gun or cannon.
 
V.M.Starr recommended 1F for shotgun use. Maybe you know such a shooter who would trade for your container.
 
ok here is what I did I took it out and put it on a sheet and crushed it wit a roller but cant quite get it down to FFg without making most of it into FFFFFg so it is at I would guess F1/2g and then I mixed it with FFg should I be able to shoot the same loads as with FFg or should I cut it back some I usually shoot 110g whit a PRB maybe I shouldn't be so paranoid but don't want to blowup my gun

Thanks
Gung
 
The 1F will produce less pressure than the finer powders. If you have a sieve get the fine dust out of what you ground and use it for priming powder. The coarser powder that doesn't go through the sieve will work for your main charge.
 
The Fg is a cartridge powder. I use Swiss Fg in my Sharps and Remington RB,86 Win. Etc. It is some times called cannon grade in old loading books.

It will work just fine in a M/L rifle or smooth bore. As someone mentioned you will need to up the charge 10% to 15% more. I never use it in M/L due to the cost. The Fg grade Swiss is $30.00 per pd. and you have to use more powder not a good deal. :shake:
 
Sorry, Redwing: Swiss Fg is more the equivalent to Goex FFg powder. Use Goex FFg and FFFg and " Cartridge Grade" powders in cartriges. They also are now selling an " Express " powder, which is also for cartridges. I have not figured out what the difference is between the cartridge grade, and the Express grade powder. but I can't find the powder here, locally, either. When I order powder next, I will pick up a can of each to compare to my FFg and FFFg powders.Goex Fg powder IS CANNON powder, and is recommended for use in shotguns, and large bore rifles. ( .70 cal. and above.) I have fired off Fg powder only as cannon powder to date.
 
gungho said:
ok here is what I did I took it out and put it on a sheet and crushed it wit a roller but cant quite get it down to FFg without making most of it into FFFFFg so it is at I would guess F1/2g and then I mixed it with FFg should I be able to shoot the same loads as with FFg or should I cut it back some I usually shoot 110g whit a PRB maybe I shouldn't be so paranoid but don't want to blowup my gun

Thanks
Gung
I'll bet that'll work fine and I'd try it just like I was shooting 2F to see how it does...may not need to tinker with a thing
 
thanks everybody for all the help will shoot it later today and see how it works
Thanks Gung
 
I'd shoot it. You may find that your rifle likes it just fine. Play around with it. It should be pretty forgiving with slightly less pressure. Your sweet spot might be larger with fg than ffg.

Looks like a good time to learn a bit.
Regards,
Pletch
 
gungho said:
ok here is what I did I took it out and put it on a sheet and crushed it wit a roller but cant quite get it down to FFg without making most of it into FFFFFg so it is at I would guess F1/2g and then I mixed it with FFg should I be able to shoot the same loads as with FFg or should I cut it back some I usually shoot 110g whit a PRB maybe I shouldn't be so paranoid but don't want to blowup my gun

Thanks
Gung

About the only thing I can think of to be concerned with would be about the graphite coating on the powder, isn't it used to help it flow smoothly. Since you broke it down into smaller granules, that means that there are more areas exposed without a graphite coat. (unless it will pick up graphite from rubbing up against the other coated powder grains)

The powder will work fine, but it may draw moisture a bit more than if left untouched.
 
Sorry Paul, you need to attend more long range Ctg shoots. :rotf: The Fg is used for long narrow loads and short wide loads as well. This powder does not compress tight as say 2F or 3F. The idea of the large grain of powder is that it leaves paths of air space around the large grains. In the very long narrow loads such as 90 to 120 grains of compressed powder you need an ignition path thru the load.
The real advantage of using 2F over 3F in a M/L is the same thing. The heavy charges are mostly long in a M/L. When using 3f the smaller grains compact leaving very little space for the ignition to travel thru the charge. In large bores with heavy wide charges such as smooth guns etc. it is the same thing.
I notice some of the very wise shooters on this forum load 2f in small bores. We have had post where fellows shoot 90 gr. loads in a .40 using 2f not 3f. This will give you a better burn and less fouling in heavy loads. When shooting 50 or less grains they use 3f.
When loading 110 or 120 gr, loads in the sharps the Swiss fg is a GOOD number. Paul, don't get hung up on the powder ads go out and shoot some. :rotf: :rotf:
 
thanks for all your replies I was most concerned about doing damage to my rifle I will shoot some this week if the POI changes to much will just use it for plinking gophers

Gung
 
gungho said:
I went to get some powder the other day and when I got home I relized that he had given me a can of FFg and a can of Fg can I use the Fg in my 54cal GPR dont think I can return it and the only place that I can get powder is 2 hrs away
thanks
Gung


With RBs the FG will produce pretty low velocity. Don't know how much it will take to equal FFG.


Dan
 
Musketman said:
About the only thing I can think of to be concerned with would be about the graphite coating on the powder, isn't it used to help it flow smoothly. Since you broke it down into smaller granules, that means that there are more areas exposed without a graphite coat. (unless it will pick up graphite from rubbing up against the other coated powder grains)

The powder will work fine, but it may draw moisture a bit more than if left untouched.


Graphite helps protect improperly made powder against moisture and allows a cheaply made powder look more like a good powder. Swiss is not graphited. Its properly polished and has a better shine than the graphited powders.

One of the old tests for powder quality was to rub a little on the palm with a fingertip. If the black came off it was cheap powder.

Dan
 
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