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Custom built Poor Boy filntlock squirrel rifle prices.

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Colorado guy

32 Cal.
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I have been researching both the kits available to build into a complete rifle, and what is available from the custom makers who build custom rifles for customers. I am very partial to and committed to purchasing a version of the “Southern Mountain Rifle”, also known as a Poor Boy Squirrel Rifle”. This extremely plain style of rifle appeals to me in several different ways. First off, it would be the cheapest rifled flintlock to pay for whether ready made or made to order by a flintlock riflesmith. Not having an entry thimble or nosecap on the forend, three ramrod pipes at most, a minimal sideplate, no toeplate, or buttplate lessens the cost of the rifle, for none of those pieces of metal have to be shaped, fitted, browned or otherwise given a finish, saving money for only the essentials of lock, stock, barrel, front and rear sights, ramrod, trigger(s) and trigger guard, and that’s it. Nothing more really needed.

It also seems that Jim Chambers late Ketland style lock is the preferred lock for late 18th, early 19th Century flintlock squirrel rifle poor boy types of rifles, so that would be historically correct as well as period correct I take it ? And a “Schimmel”, “Poor Boy” type of rifle in the southern style is as cheap as it gets for a flintlock rifle.

Several different makers have flintlock rifles I like, but all of them would need shorter barrels, as I am only 5’6” tall, and need a shorter barrel to allow me to load easier, and at a lesser height, than a longer than 36” barrel would allow. I’m hoping some of the custom makers can or would bob back or get a 36” barrel in the first place when building me the poorest Poor Boy Squirrel rifle possible. Anything to save money on the rifle so long as it shoots straighter than the road to hell and takes the head’s off squirrels neat as a meat cleaver would.

Richard Dillon’s shop, makes a wickedly good looking Southern Mountain Rifle, and it is almost what I want, with the exception of having too long ( 44”) barrel, but would be about perfect if the barrel could be bobbed about 8 inches. I really like the styling and the way the rear trigger has a crescent shape to it. I like it!

Likewise is the East Tennessee Bean Style rifle from Dillon’s Flintlocks. The length is right, but there is too much metal on this rifle to qualify it as a “Poor Boy”. And at 46”, the barrel is again, too long.

Roy Stroh also makes several different rifles that would about match my needs. His “Poor Boy” in .45 caliber built from a Chambers deluxe lock, a Flintlock Construction Inc barrel is also of my type. So is his Southern .40 caliber, his two Barn Guns, and the wood patchbox on one of them is also something that appeals to me in a Poor Boy squirrel rifle.

I’m not sure what the optimum or average length of a barrel on a southern style Muzzleloading flintlock would be, but would it be common to have a shorter barrel at the request of the customer or not ? And could a maker make the flintlock squirrel rifle I want plain and “Poor boy” enough to keep the cost to between $1000-$1500 US dollars?

Since I have no place at present to work on a flintlock rifle kit, no tools to do an assembly of parts and unfinished stock into a rifle, or the time to spare to do it, the obvious choice is to pay the money to a rifle builder who can put together a rifle of the poor boy southern style I want for my first, and maybe only, custom rifle build in my lifetime.

Suggestions please.
 
I have a Southern Mountain rifle I'm slowly working on right now. I bought the Kit from T.V.M. with a .40 cal. 36" Mark Dehass barrel. I'm like you Kinda on the short side 5'0" even. You can call an ask them what they have.
 
Have you handled a longer barreled rifle??? Even at your stature you should have no trouble loading a gun with a longer barrel. Tip the gun if you have to. A 36" barrel is awful short for a Southern rifle like you're describing. My just less than 5' tall daughter uses a 38" barreled gun without problem.

A Roy Stroh gun wouldn't work for me if he uses the deluxe Siler on a Southern gun....though I'm sure he could build one on a Late Ketland just as easy. The wood patchbox on a Southern gun would be unusal too, but a simple grease hole would be appropriate, especially on a Po' Boy.

$1000-$1500 is a pretty low bar to set for a quality builder these days, but you might get lucky....or you may be sorry. Quality barrels running about $200, and in a .32 I would insist on a swamped barrel to keep the weight down but still allow you to have the breech thick enough for good architecture, so your talking more like $250. Another $150 for the lock, then wood, set triggers, etc. It adds up pretty fast.

TVM, known for being affordable, is asking $600 for their Poor Boy parts set, and that's with the wrong lock and a very heavy in .32 straight sided barrel. You should be looking at prices closer to $1800-2000 for a quality custom build.

Back to architecture, it is the most important atribute of any gun, and especailly so on one that is unadorned, as you indicate this one will be. That's why it's important to go with someone who really knows what they're doing. In other words, you are likely to find somebody to build it for you for the money your talking about, but they will probably be an otherwise unknown and untested builder and you will be gambling on whether or not they will get it right.

Good luck and Enjoy, J.D.
 
Lots of these style rifles were small bore with relatively straight large diameter barrels. Heavy they often were. Flintlocks seem to be rare, a good percussion lock like the siler mountain would be more appropriate. You should be able to get the parts for a basic rifle like this under $400 with either a flint or percussion lock.

I do not think it would be all that difficult to find a decent builder to put one together for under $1500. You could also look at Track of the Wolf. I have seen some good deals on rifles of this type over the years.
 
You didn't mention a caliber you would like to have but I did some digging at Pecatonica River's site and, based on "the customer is always right" came up with this as a possibility.

13/16 X 36" straight octagon barrel $155

Jim Chambers Late Ketland Flintlock: $145 (file off the teat at the rear) http://www.longrifles-pr.com/jimchamberslocks.shtml

Southern Mountain pre-carved stock (without lock mortice) = $47.50 http://www.longrifles-pr.com/southernmtn.shtml

#2 MC maple Wood for fullstock = $75 http://www.longrifles-pr.com/stockblanks.shtml

Long tang breech plug = $24

(With a little paste and copy from PR Longrifle website catalog)

Recommended Triggerguard Iron $25.00
Recommended Thimbles Steel (3) $15.00
Lock Screws (2) $3.50
Tang Screws (2) $3.50
Rear Sight $8.00
Front Sight $5.00
Barrel Lugs (3) $6.00
Barrel Keys (or Pins) (3) Pins no charge


Sideplate Steel $3.00
Touch Hole Liner $2.00
Ramrod Jag & Tip Brass $3.50
Ramrod $3.00
Misc. Screws $1.50


That comes to about $522.00 plus maybe $20 postage.

Yes it has a straight barrel but it's short and costs less. The 13/16" X 36" barrel in .45 cal is lightweight and won't be at all muzzle heavy.

The only metal furniture is the sideplate, iron trigger guard and thimbles.

With a few tools, a LOT of time and our help you can put it together yourself.
Lots of folks who never dreamed they could, have and they ended up with some very nice rifles.

You do have to be able to accept some criticism and follow directions though.
We won't lead you wrong but some of us can be pretty blunt. :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
We're the same height, and I shoot a long rifle. I shoot a Late Virginia, with a 44" swamped barrel and I also have a Cherokee and Seneca, which are very short rifles, but I prefer the long rifle. I straddle the rifle to load it. at the range I place a piece of carpet on the floor next to a wall, straddle the rifle and point the barrel away from me and it's easy to load. I think loading it in the field would be a little more difficult, but just because I wouldn't want to scratch the butt stock.
 
A simple rifle is fine!
However the cost of a butt plate installed, or ready to be installed is minimal.
You won't be happy further down the road with a chip, or crack on the toe of your stock, of a $800 rifle. Only because you were to frugal for the extra $35-$50 that an installed butt plate would have saved.
I've been around the block too many times, to know the difference.
Old Ford
 
Barrel length is not really an issue...... You can load it. Ya just set the rifle at an angle & load it. If any of ya know Eddie May, he supplies all the cast balls to Dixie, TOW, lots of places & to individuals as well. Eddie is about 5'4 and he shoots a longrifle with a 46" barrel & been shooting it Well for many many years. The rifle looks longer than he is. :grin:

Personally....... and just an opinion........ you are describing 2 dif rifles. A Southern Mountain Rifle or a Tenn rifle has a prominent sharp buttplate, a poorboy or barn rifle has no buttplate & the end of the butt is not sharp & pointed like a Tenn. IMHO. If it were, you would never keep a toe on it without buttplate/toeplate protection.

I am not telling you which to build, as it is of no matter to me. Most of the Tenn rifles would be 40" barrel length or more, 44 being the most asked for now (to me) HOWEVER>>>> If I was building a Poorboy or barn rifle for me to hunt with, I would use any length barrel I wanted, as it doesn't represent a particular Area, if is a barn gun that could have been found in ANY area & made up of whatever they found to make it, it is a poor mans rifle, plus I am makin it For Me........

My suggestion, order your own parts, build it yourself. You are talking about making a basic rifle and most of the time you can get good guidance on here. Main thing is Do Dot take off doing things & then ask.... ASK before ya do them. There are steps & procedures to get thing together so you don't wake up one morning & say "Oh manure, the vent hole is in the middle of the breechplug... now what do I do ?" :surrender: like some of them have on here.

Also, the Barrel Quality & Lock quality is what will make it work for you. It can be mounted on a 2x4 or boat oar, but if you have a New Grn Mtn barrel barrel on it, and a Chambers Late Ketland lock, it will... shoot more accurate than you can hold it. The rest is up to You.

You might call Tip Curtis 615-654-4445 & ask Tip if he has a short Poorboy parts set, and you want the bare bare of rifles with no buttplate, etc., he may have a parts set made up. Or he may shorten it for you upon request & recrown the barrel. Just be up front & tell him you are not comfortable doing it & you want him to cut & crown it. Plain stock, Davis single trigger, Chambers Ketland lock, 1 or 2 RR pipes, no entrypipe, sideplate, buttplate or toeplate, you don't even have to have a triggerguard if you don't want one. It is a poor mans rifle & the bare essentials to make it work.

Or..... another option is you could take a southern or Tenn stock & recontour the buttplate area & take off that sharp toe & then it would be less susceptible to breaking without a toeplate & buttplate. Wood grain in this area would be important. Those Tenn rifle stocks are known... to get broken toes just shipping them... Also upon completion, it's important on loading those rifles with no pressure on that toe area. I load my Tenn rifles with the butt on my foot so there is no pressure on the toe. Lots of guys at the matches that shoot them have a 12" long piece of rounded 4x4 with carpet over it & they set the buttplate on that to insure it doesn't pressure the toe area.

Keith Lisle
 
Alexander L. Johnson said:
Lots of these style rifles were small bore with relatively straight large diameter barrels.....

Of course, you are correct, but they were also long barreled. So, there's a choice to make, build it with a really heavy barrel that is unmanagable to shoot off had, build it with a swamped barrel or build it with a skinny straight barrel. To me, there's no contest.

I find it funny when people consider spending $1000+ to have a gun built, they won't consider saving a little longer to get one with a swamped barrel when appropriate as it has so many attributes.

As to the cost, I don't dispute you can get a rifle built for $1500....but pretty much explained my thinking above. I go to a lot of shows and know a lot of builders, good and not so good, and have likely handled hundreds of contemporary builds. It is wise to do your research before commissioning a build, on the gun and the builder....especially the builder. Just my opinion, based on experience.

Flintlock vs. caplock? I don't think flintlock SMR's are all that rare at all. It is a well known fact that the flintlock was used much later in that region than others and there are many original guns in existance to support this. Besides, the percussion lock may be cheaper, but then you add the drum, nipple and additional cost of installation and it's about even or more....flintlock guns are easier to set up.

Used guns? Again correct, you can often get a very nice gun for half what the builder would build it for, if you are patient and know what you know what to look for.

Zonie, I think you forgot the set triggers. Add another $46 or so.

Old Ford, Your comment goes to what I said above on saving a few bucks....I don't get it either. Now if the OP really wants a Po' Boy sans buttplate, he needs to go to somebody who knows what they're doing. As Keith alluded to, the shaping and lay out is critical when the plate is left off to help prevent breakage/chipping.

Enjoy, J.D.
 
call tip curtis...615-654-4445
he has some sitting ready to go....or he'll make you one~ for around $1250 and up....but a SMR with less work would be easy for him.

and he KNOWS his southern mtn rifles!

FYI, i have a cherry stocked caplock with 42" GM 32cal, straight barrel...I like it, JD has held it too :applause:
I'm getting more and more thinking NOT to sell it....I haven't shot her yet, maybe I'm just :youcrazy: to have her for sale JD!!!!!!
:rotf:
 
If you shoot it, you may not be as inclined to sell it. Just something to think about. :wink: Enjoy, J.D.
 
I am 5'4" and my .36 cal Lancaster has a 40" tapered barrel. It is "just right" for me. All my half stocked plains rifles have barrels that range from 31" to 36" and I like them also for their style. For ME I would not go over a 42" swamped or taper barrel it is just to awkward for me to handle.
 
went to that one web page...........
my eyes! my eyes!!!.....I have never seen a BLUE flintlock rifle...a 'smurf gun'!!! :youcrazy:

howl all you want....THAT is butt-ugly!!!!

:youcrazy: :surrender: :shocked2: :shocked2:
 
:hmm: That Gillespie rifle seems awfully familiar to me for some reason. Gee, Travis, I wonder why. :wink: Enjoy, J.D.
 
Yeah it used to be mine till I traded it off a little while back. Even though it's gone it'll probably always be my favorite. I loved the rifle but was not in love with the .45 caliber.

32caliberman can get an idea of what a short Gillespie looks like. That one has a 38" barrel.

An option for you 32, is to contact Dennis for a stock. If you want a stock with no butt plate get the 1810 Mathew patten stock. If you want one with a butt plate he has the 1840s Phillip stock. He might round you up a barrel if not buy a barrel send it to Dennis and your stock will come with the barrel inlet.

As said the swamped barrel is nice, that one of mine had the Haynes profile. 38" is the shortest you can get in swamped unless you get a Jaeger barrel which is totally wrong for the style.

For a true period correct piece a 15/16 or 7/8 straight barrel in .32 would be really close. I would only go that thick with a 36" barrel though. The 42" Rice Southern Classic would be sweet. I might even consider having the builder measure, inlet and drill the pipes like it was for a 44" barrel then move them back if I used a 36 inch bbl. That way it would appear that the longrifle was shortened as was quite common in the era. I might even go so far as to have an extra sight dovetal in the barrel, to simulate the sights being moved when the barrel was shortened. Just a thought.

So 32caliberman do your research. IMHO a Gillespie is pretty well close to the type of rifle you want. You can order all the components like the stock, trigger guard , barrel, lock get the Chambers Late Ketland it's correct and one heck of lock and triggers and find you a builder to assemble it.

With that your getting close to the $1500 build since you gathered the parts and have done some of the work yourself.
 
Would a shortened barrel have an extra sight dovetail? Or would the old dovetail have been cut off? :hmm: ............. :grin: Enjoy, J.D.
 
It depends if they shortened it from the breach :grin: which I understand was common in the percussion era.
Many appear to be shortened from the muzzle too if so, the dovetail would be cut off. :grin:

I may have of gotten a little carried away with that suggestion. I was just trying to justify a short Gillespie if he wanted a true era build.

BTW in Dennis' book there is a shortened rifle. I do believe it was shortened from the muzzle and a new pewter cap was poured. Seems like the pipes were repositioned.
 
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