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Best advice for removing a stuck nipple

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Pork Chop

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I have a Thompson Center Renegade in 54 that has a stuck nipple. Several days of PB Blaster have had no effect. Should I be looking for the drill?

Also, the sight is the late style site that has a tiny pin holding the windage adjustment screw. That pin has sheared. Does anyone know a source for the pin?
 
Got a freezer? Toss the barrel in there for a few days, then try the nipple.
I lost one of those pins, I just used a sewing needle cut off to length with a dremel,(if held and bent with two pliers it'll break too) Go buy a pack of assorted size sewing needles at walmart,, one is bound to fit decent.
 
I was given an old .30 BP pistol that was totally neglected. The nipple was totally rusted onto the bolster. Couldn't tell where the nipple ended or the bolster began. I ended up totally rounding off the contours of the nipple using my nipple wrench.

I had read somewhere on this forum about using a 50/50 blend of Acetone and Transmission fluid.

I totally submerged the barrel in this blend. I let it soak for a couple of days.

Then took some vicegrips and to my surprise, I was able to break the seized nipple loose. It Worked!

The only concern I would have with you trying this option is with the Acetone. It might ruin the bluing/browning finish on the barrel?

It didn't bother me do to the fact that the barrel had surface rust on it anyway and I was going to have to refinish it.

Mine was an extreme case. If all else fails it is one option to consider.

Respectfully, Cowboy :hatsoff:
 
you might want to try a wrench with a little more leverage to it. I have one that is about 4 inches long, and it makes a huge difference.

Fleener
 
Thanks All. I will probably break out the torch. I need to get a longer nipple wrench too.
 
Cowboy said:
The only concern I would have with you trying this option is with the Acetone. It might ruin the bluing/browning finish on the barrel?

Respectfully, Cowboy :hatsoff:

Cowboy,

The only way Acetone would hurt the finish of the barrel is if the finish was done with a poor quality "cold" blue. However, Transmission Fluid and Actetone or Acetone only - that drips/runs down onto the wood WILL screw up the top finish of the wood.

To the OP:

IF you have a freezer you can put the barrel in overnight (as Neechi mentioned) and whip it out the next day when you can work on it right away, it will often free up a stuck nipple.

If after you try that and possibly try the transmission fluid/Acetone mixture and it doesn't work, then time to try some heat. BUT I would advise holding a nail in a pair of pliers and heating the tip of the nail to red color and then placing the heated nail tip on the nipple. That way the heat will transfer down the nipple with almost zero chance of heating up too much around the barrel. I can not even remember how many stuck nipples I removed at NSSA Spring and Fall National Championships over the years between 1974 and 2005 and this worked a fair amount of time.

After that, what I always did was pull out my Industrial Size Dremel Tool with a round Carbide Burr/Cutter. Before I went to grinding on the nipple, I made a shield out of thin metal stock with a hole to clear the nipple and wrap that around the barrel/lock. You could also use leather to make such a shield.

I always began by hack sawing off the flattened cone of the nipple. Then burr cutting down the center of the nipple below the surface of where the flattened cone had been and into the main body of the nipple. Then I tried using an Easy Out. The vibration of the bur cutting usually vibrated the nipple enough to break free even many rusted in nipples.

The absolute WORST stuck nipple I ever had to remove was in an Original M1863 Rifle Musket with the original Iron Nipple. The Rifle Musket was in super great shape and I'm sure many Museums would have displayed it, BUT the nipple had rusted and been battered pretty bad over the years. So the nipple had almost been hammer forged into the threads on the barrel. Oh and that was not all, the owner had saved the Musket for a few months because he did not trust anyone else to work on it AND he brought it up to our booth around 7:00 PM and needed it to shoot the following morning. I did not have even a good drill press to work on it in the booth. Oh yeah, not much pressure there! :haha:

Everything else I normally did had failed up to and including what I mentioned above. What I wound up doing was burr cutting a screw driver type slot down into the thick/main part of the nipple. Then I stuck a rather thick and hardened screw driver into the slot and used a wrench to turn the screwdriver blade. It actually turned loose easier than I expected and no doubt due to the additional vibration from burr cutting out the screw driver slot in the nipple.

Now, this took almost 2 hours to do as I was going slow, taking little breaks and being extremely careful not to scratch/mar that original Musket in any way. The customer stopped by the booth about a half hour later and was very pleased the job was done. I was happy I never again ran across a nipple that was that difficult to remove.

Gus
 
With respect, my experience has always been just the opposite. PB Blaster got stuff loose that Kano and every other type of penetrating oil would not begin to loosen.

Gus
 
When you screw the nipple, to prevent this problem from occurring, do some rounds on the threads of the nipple with teflon from hydraulics
 
I also use the anti seize grease, high temp with cooper in it.

Fleener
 
I like Kano's kroil as I have used it to free up nipples on a black powder revolver that a friend had that his grandson had used and put it away in a damp basement with out cleaning. He had two and I spent a week with a can of pb blaster and a one lb propane tank getting the first free. While working on it I got an ad for the kroil and thought I might as well try it.I had the second one free and working in one hour after letting it soak over night. I have also had good luck with the acetone/automatic transmission mixture. :idunno: :idunno:
 
Squirt a little of your favorite penetrating oil around the threads and then rap the nipple firmly with a small hammer. Not sideways! Like you were driving a nail.

Don't beat the snot out of it either, just a few sharp taps. Repeat if necessary.

You might have to use a small socket over the nipple to avoid hitting the barrel bolster.

The vibrations set up from the tapping allows the oil to penetrate and the actual force of the impacts jars the rust loose. Works like a charm on stuck nipples, screws, and even brake bleeders.

An old autobody man taught me that trick over 30 years ago to get the rusted trim screws out. I've used it literally hundreds (thousands maybe???) of times in my years as a mechanic and dozens of times on stuck nipples.
 
That was quite a story about how you got that nipple loose!

I also appreciate your detailed descriptions on how to do things. Alot of really good information to digest and remember.

That is one thing you can't buy, and that is true experience!

I appreciate the education!

Thankyou.

Respectfully, Cowboy :hatsoff:
 
Indeed, Jethro's suggestion to use some force on the nipple is something else to try before one resorts to heating the nail tip and applying it to the nipple. My apology for inadvertently leaving that out in my post above.

Back in the early 1980's a NSSA shooter, who was also a machinist, began making some nipple wrenches that fit the nipples far better than usual and were VERY nicely hardened and annealed. The quality of those wrenches were far better than anything then offered and on par with some vintage English "Best Quality" tools/accoutrements, though they were not decorated. My mentor found out about them and informed me, then I began using and stocking them and they were a dream to use.

We used to put those over a stuck nipple and tap the nipple wrench with a lead or copper mallet, as Jethro explained like driving a nail.

Gus
 
I've had excellent luck with PB Blaster on a '73 CJ5 Jeep my brother and I restored. Works excellent on rusted bolts and especially rusted up u joints. A little heat and hammer treatment and they come free.

I wonder if the poster got the nipple out yet?
 
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