• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Arrows

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
2,519
Reaction score
4,715
Location
In the basket of deplorables.
Anyone have a line on where to get good quality fletching for primitive arrows? Many of the places I've been looking only sell a complete arrow kit and they are quite expensive and I don't have a dedicated archery shop anywhere close that I can find.
 
Get yourself some goose or turkey wings and make your own. Fairly quick and cheap to boot...
 
I have seen arrow making suppliers selling Crow and Turkey feathers for this purpose. Widen your search to also include "Fly Fishing " suppliers. Often feathers are sold for use in making those "flys".
 
I agree, split a feather from either wing, geese are the best. I use a belt sander to get them flat on the bottom. Be sure to stick to left or right wing feathers per arrow. Wrap some sinew around shaft to hold them on and your set.

Regards
Loyd
 
Loyd said:
I agree, split a feather from either wing, geese are the best. I use a belt sander to get them flat on the bottom. Be sure to stick to left or right wing feathers per arrow. Wrap some sinew around shaft to hold them on and your set.

Regards
Loyd

Left wing for right-handed shooters and right wing for left-handed shooters. Archers pardox....

I prefer to strip rather than split. Faster and no rib to contend with.
 
I am a flytyer and I think maybe turkey, crow, or goose might not be as durable as turkey buzzard. I was looking at a tail feather (on the ground), of course I do not know about the legality of possessing or using the feathers. I would definately check on that. One method of tyeing classic Salmon flies is to 'marry' strips of different types of feathers together by pulling them between your fingertips. The barbules are hooked and join each other. Ive never made arrows just adding my comments.
 
I thought that It probably is that way. Thanks for clarification. I imagine that turkey or goose biot feathers might be more durable aso. You might even wind them spirally and make so called "flu-flu" feathers for shooting into the air for birds. The quills would need to be thinned down first to be able to wrap them this way.
 
dyemaker, didn't know you wrapped hooks. I tie flies too. I am currently experimenting with muskrat for woolybuggers. Guess I better shut up, this has nothing to do with MLS. :grin:
 
I liked to use turkey feathers as they split so easily I new a guy who did custom poultry processing and got them by the garbage bag full and dried them in pillow cases in the drier, if you have wild tukeys in your area you should be able to find lots of them when they molt I have seen the ground covered with them in turkey country around here
 
Anuone who still makes arrows have any photos of their work?, I think most of mine are gone or on an old 'puter
 
tg, Its never too soon to get ready for next season. These arrows are made from a real dense Ash tree, about 7-8" in diameter, growing on the north slope of a small hill. Feathers are from geese or turkey I have taken. The broadheads are from an old crosscut saw, forged and re-tempered to remain somewhat flexible and still hold an edge when cutting through bone. they are bedded to the shaft with a pine sap, charcoal dust mixture that works like a heat activated glue, then bound with sinew from deer I have taken. When I first started making these, I shot one at a concrete block at about ten yards. The broadhead curled over some, but remained firmly fixed to the shaft. I even made a new osage longbow from Osage, that worked out to about sixty- five pounds, getting old and have to tone things down a bit.
DSCN0895.jpg

Robby
 
Back
Top